Mauser 1871 bullets

[uscra112]

From good friends in Germany: Yes, you certainly can be a sport shooter, but you have to take a pretty rigorous training to get a license. That's typical for almost everything in Germany. Same friend told me you have get a license to play golf!

[Gobeyond]

From good friends in Germany: Yes, you certainly can be a sport shooter, but you have to take a pretty rigorous training to get a license. That's typical for almost everything in Germany. Same friend told me you have get a license to play golf!

Hurt in’ for funds or something? Big brother? I guess that’s where America is going. It’s good that all European countries haven’t banned guns altogether now that war is not so prevalent. Good research area or something. You seem plenty knowledgeable must have quite a bit of freedom in this area. That’s good. I know “cap and all” in Hungary shoots and hunts a lot. Serbia too. Lots of pig hunting. Rural California getting kind of tight as far as sport shooting. Do you see a world government coming? Control of the people seems increasing and the sovereignty of the US the UN and others taking aim at.

[uscra112]

No, it's just the German cultural obsession with orderliness and control.

[Gobeyond]

I see those are good qualities. History becomes a little clearer. I appreciate your viewpoint being over there in Switzerland.

As I get deeper into loading for this 43 Mauser I’m finding that my eyes are severely limiting me. It maybe able to shoot better than I can. I found a great load but I having light primer strikes. Could seating the primer shallower work? I might need a new firing pin or spring. Any comments? Any info about using a filler could help. Only a light amount?

That 400 grain bullet will really tear up a propane cylinder. I want to get it to shoot good at 100 yds. Or hit a gong at 200 is this possible? Send stories. Will a duplex load narrow down my groups?

[Gobeyond]

The pp mold is dropping at 436 and pp’d to 444. Fits A fired case real good. If the bore is 433 what should the bullet be sized to? And how will that obturate .025 to fit my grooves which are 454?

[hpbear101]

The pp mold is dropping at 436 and pp’d to 444. Fits A fired case real good. If the bore is 433 what should the bullet be sized to? And how will that obturate .025 to fit my grooves which are 454?

In post #9 I have a picture of the Chassepot bullet that I am paper patching. It is a tapered design the back section I size to .444 (to remove the .460 belt), I have been patching with 55Y paper which gets me to .447/.448 these shoot well. I just purchased some 55W paper which puts me right at .449 which will still chamber fine, I haven't had a chance to fire any yet. I would think your .436 should do fine I believe that's closer to the original diameter than my .444. Also the current batch of bullets I am patching are 20:1 and they obturate fine.

My first few sessions with these PP Chassepot bullets shot well but I had leading. My last batch I used 2 over powder milk carton wads, doubled my lube cookie and then a poly wad under the bullet. I think with a single over powder wad and minimal lube cookie I was burning through the base causing the leading. I shot 15 of them last weekend and no leading. I've read a lot and watched some paper patching videos that have helped me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QUUv2p4lDCc

This particular video talks about the lube cookies and wads in a little more detail than most.

[Gobeyond]

In post #9 I have a picture of the Chassepot bullet that I am paper patching. It is a tapered design the back section I size to .444 (to remove the .460 belt), I I have been patching with 55Y paper which gets me to .447/.448 these shoot well. I just purchased some 55W paper which puts me right at .449 which will still chamber fine, I haven't had a chance to fire any yet. I would think your .436 should do fine I believe that's closer to the original diameter than my .444.

Thank you for your reply. Is there some kind of rule that says the boolit should be 4-6 thousandths less than rifling? That only the paper should engage the rifling. I appreciate your confidence.

[hpbear101]

As far as rules I don't think there are any hard and fast rules. I've read where smokeless PP bullets should patch to groove diameter and BP should be patched to bore diameter. So obviously my bullet breaks that rule. Mine are right in the middle of the bore/groove range, I don't know for sure if the tapered bullet design has any effect on that or not. My patched bullet can fit well into the muzzle of the rifle which if nothing else would be a benefit as they start to foul. BUT, most PP bullets aren't tapered so the answer is I don't know

I'm guessing your going to be ok as that is at or near the original bullet diameter. As long as they are chambering (and unfired extracting) without damage to your patch I would guess your diameters are going to work. I would just recommend doubling the over powder wad, plenty of lube and a poly or double milk carton wand under the bullet and give them a try. If they don't work send me a message with your mailing address and I will send you some of my bullets to try.

Tom

[Gobeyond]

As far as rules I don't think there are any hard and fast rules. I've read where smokeless PP bullets should patch to groove diameter and BP should be patched to bore diameter. So obviously my bullet breaks that rule. Mine are right in the middle of the bore/groove range, I don't know for sure if the tapered bullet design has any effect on that or not. My patched bullet can fit well into the muzzle of the rifle which if nothing else would be a benefit as they start to foul. BUT, most PP bullets aren't tapered so the answer is I don't know

I'm guessing your going to be ok as that is at or near the original bullet diameter. As long as they are chambering (and unfired extracting) without damage to your patch I would guess your diameters are going to work. I would just recommend doubling the over powder wad, plenty of lube and a poly or double milk carton wand under the bullet and give them a try. If they don't work send me a message with your mailing address and I will send you some of my bullets to try.

Tom

I appreciate the offer I might do that. I read in Matthews book that I can try a full load of fffg bp he does it in a 45-70 roller. That’s all I have right now with the same bullet. I need a use for fffg t-7, have a whole pound. Want to use everything up before paying too much for something else.

What kind of sights you shooting @hpbear101? I’m looking at one highly adjustable. The use of which makes perfect sense. Too much sight for me and my range. I’ll just have to see how other sights adjust to know if it will work. That one adjusts so fine like 10-20 1000ths so predictable. I figure it would help to adjust for bullet drop at long range and get someone in the ball park. Long range does interest me. I only need $1000 to get started, that’s all.

[Yellowhouse]

What NoBade said.

[missionary5155]

And as always your rifle will let you know what it likes best.

[Gobeyond]

And as always your rifle will let you know what it likes best.

What NoBade said.

Thanks fellas. And missionary…. I appreciate the quote.

[hpbear101]

I have a rifle and a carbine both in military configuration and sights.

[Gobeyond]

As far as rules I don't think there are any hard and fast rules. I've read where smokeless PP bullets should patch to groove diameter and BP should be patched to bore diameter. So obviously my bullet breaks that rule. Mine are right in the middle of the bore/groove range, I don't know for sure if the tapered bullet design has any effect on that or not. My patched bullet can fit well into the muzzle of the rifle which if nothing else would be a benefit as they start to foul. BUT, most PP bullets aren't tapered so the answer is I don't know

I'm guessing your going to be ok as that is at or near the original bullet diameter. As long as they are chambering (and unfired extracting) without damage to your patch I would guess your diameters are going to work. I would just recommend doubling the over powder wad, plenty of lube and a poly or double milk carton wand under the bullet and give them a try. If they don't work send me a message with your mailing address and I will send you some of my bullets to try.

Tom

If you pp to bore diameter what will engage the rifling? I got some bp and am making some bullets with only that difference from my other ones. It takes up just enough space in the case but the bullets are sticking out more. Hope the throat is long enough that it doesn’t compress it anymore. Making progress but would still like to keep this conversation going good buddy. Looking for consistencies and accuracy. How do you lube your molds? Having a little trouble with bore butter. Sorry I changed the subject so much last time but this is where I’m at now.

[Gobeyond]

As far as rules I don't think there are any hard and fast rules. I've read where smokeless PP bullets should patch to groove diameter and BP should be patched to bore diameter. So obviously my bullet breaks that rule. Mine are right in the middle of the bore/groove range, I don't know for sure if the tapered bullet design has any effect on that or not. My patched bullet can fit well into the muzzle of the rifle which if nothing else would be a benefit as they start to foul. BUT, most PP bullets aren't tapered so the answer is I don't know

If you pp to bore size what will engage rifling? I got some bp and am reconstructing my bullets with only that difference.
1fg doesn’t take up all the room in case, but enough, because I have a lot of bullet sticking out of case. I hope the throat is long enough. Using a drop tube and lube cookie. The loading was time consuming. I don’t know if your still listening Tom, but I’m making progress slowly. Come back good buddy. Having a heckova time with a short firing pin, but it likes pistol primers instead of rifle primers.

I'm guessing your going to be ok as that is at or near the original bullet diameter. As long as they are chambering (and unfired extracting) without damage to your patch I would guess your diameters are going to work. I would just recommend doubling the over powder wad, plenty of lube and a poly or double milk carton wand under the bullet and give them a try. If they don't work send me a message with your mailing address and I will send you some of my bullets to try.

Tom

Check above in between your post.

[hpbear101]

A quick description of what's working for me:

Large pistol primers (using magnums because I have lots) 1871 Mausers as I understand it often have difficulty with large rifle primers. I had lots of misfires with large rifle, large pistol works great for me.

Brass is modified Starline 45-90. rims turned down a bit, I leave them full length as its such a miniscule difference. They do tend to bulge a bit ahead of the case head. I don't size after firing just flare the mouth and seat the bullet.

I'm on a H777 kick right now it works great in the large BP era cases. The .43 likes 55grains (equals about 80 grains in a BP volume measure), BP also works fine.

My bore diameter PP bullets need more protection than I anticipated. I use 2 milk carton wads over the powder, two lube cookies (BP bullet lube, mine is beeswax and peanut oil at a ratio that keeps it a soft solid. I also add a large spoonful of white lithium grease and keep stirring the lube until the lithium breaks down into tiny droplets then let cool), and then a plastic wad under the bullet.

The bullet is a 1866 Chassepot bullet from Accurate Molds. I read where the 1871 Mauser was designed around the Chassepot barrel and it may well be true as this bullet works well. It is a tapered bullet that had a .460 base band, I run it through a Lee .444 sizer so its tapered with the last half to a third of the bullet being .444. I paper patch with Seth Cole 55Y paper which gives me a finished diameter of .447/.448, also trying 55W which ends up being a thousandth or so bigger. The bullet when propelled by BP (or H77) will expand when the gasses begin to propel it forward that is how it engages the rifling. In the BP era it was common even for lube groove bullets to be undersized to deal with the BP fouling, they will expand upon firing.

I made a neck expander plug to use with the Lee Universal Neck Expander die. I also chamfer the case mouths to prevent tearing the patch. I seat with no crimp and the bullets are secure in the case.

If you are using a parallel sided bullet I am guessing (pretty new to paper patching) you would want the wrapped bullet to be bore(ish) diameter. It should be able to be chambered and extracted without damaging the patch, a lot of this will depend on your particular chamber. I think the tapered bullet just makes this part of the process easier, especially as the fouling begins to build up. Some of the bigger names in BPCR are going to a similar tapered bullet.

These particular bullets are cast 20:1and work fine, from what I've read 16:1 were paper patched back in the day. I don.t think they need to be pure lead just keep away from hard alloys.

I didn't quite understand the question about lubing my molds. I use 2 cycle motor oil on a rag, rub it over the top of the mold and bottom of sprue plate. Use a Q-tip to put a dab on pins, and pivot for sprue plate.

Sights, mine are both military sights. Your rifle would look great with a folding leaf type express sight.

Hope that answers your questions.

Tom

[Gobeyond]

A quick description of what's working for me:

Large pistol primers (using magnums because I have lots) 1871 Mausers as I understand it often have difficulty with large rifle primers. I had lots of misfires with large rifle, large pistol works great for me.

Brass is modified Starline 45-90. rims turned down a bit, I leave them full length as its such a miniscule difference. They do tend to bulge a bit ahead of the case head. I don't size after firing just flare the mouth and seat the bullet.

I'm on a H777 kick right now it works great in the large BP era cases. The .43 likes 55grains (equals about 80 grains in a BP volume measure), BP also works fine.

My bore diameter PP bullets need more protection than I anticipated. I use 2 milk carton wads over the powder, two lube cookies (BP bullet lube, mine is beeswax and peanut oil at a ratio that keeps it a soft solid. I also add a large spoonful of white lithium grease and keep stirring the lube until the lithium breaks down into tiny droplets then let cool), and then a plastic wad under the bullet.

The bullet is a 1866 Chassepot bullet from Accurate Molds. I read where the 1871 Mauser was designed around the Chassepot barrel and it may well be true as this bullet works well. It is a tapered bullet that had a .460 base band, I run it through a Lee .444 sizer so its tapered with the last half to a third of the bullet being .444. I paper patch with Seth Cole 55Y paper which gives me a finished diameter of .447/.448, also trying 55W which ends up being a thousandth or so bigger. The bullet when propelled by BP (or H77) will expand when the gasses begin to propel it forward that is how it engages the rifling. In the BP era it was common even for lube groove bullets to be undersized to deal with the BP fouling, they will expand upon firing.

I made a neck expander plug to use with the Lee Universal Neck Expander die. I also chamfer the case mouths to prevent tearing the patch. I seat with no crimp and the bullets are secure in the case.

If you are using a parallel sided bullet I am guessing (pretty new to paper patching) you would want the wrapped bullet to be bore(ish) diameter. It should be able to be chambered and extracted without damaging the patch, a lot of this will depend on your particular chamber. I think the tapered bullet just makes this part of the process easier, especially as the fouling begins to build up. Some of the bigger names in BPCR are going to a similar tapered bullet.

These particular bullets are cast 20:1and work fine, from what I've read 16:1 were paper patched back in the day. I don.t think they need to be pure lead just keep away from hard alloys.

I didn't quite understand the question about lubing my molds. I use 2 cycle motor oil on a rag, rub it over the top of the mold and bottom of sprue plate. Use a Q-tip to put a dab on pins, and pivot for sprue plate.

Sights, mine are both military sights. Your rifle would look great with a folding leaf type express sight.

Hope that answers your questions.

Tom

Hi Tom thanks for replying. How do you measure t-7? 55 grains by volume equals 80 grs by volume of black? Or is that by power they are equal? Is it a light load that you need filler for? Can I use 77 grs of 3fg black powder or 3fg t-7? I’m glad this is a winning combination for you (what you just told me). How many years of experimentation until you learned all the ins and outs?
And about the mold lube, I was melting bore butter on the hot mold and it gets into the cavity and burns. A problem sometimes but finishes well. I should use a cloth. Does the two stroke make your mold dark like does it burn dude?

This shows me a lot about you- all this info you are sharing. We are brothers in the bpcr? But not in the Lord Jesus?

[Gobeyond]

Ha. 5 shot 1 3/4 group with 450 minie. 77 grains of 1 Fg 43 Mauser. 2 cardboard wads. Lube grooves white label bp. And gun cleaned and lubed every shot with bore butter. That got the fouling soft. IgtgtG.

[sharps4590]

Gotta love it, absolutely gotta love it!!! Well done sir!!!

[pworley1]

I use the Lyman 454485 in mine.