Sizing

[ILostMyGoat]

Ok so I have slugged my bore, now what? The rifle is a 30/30 and the bore slugged at .309. Does that mean I cast and shoot .309? How much bigger is still safe? How much does PC add ? Thanks guys!


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[wmitty]

Is your .30-30 micro groove rifling (Marlin) or Winchester/Remington/ Savage/ H & R/ other….
If it’s micro groove try .310” or larger. If it’s not micro groove, u might get away with a .309” boolit.
I can’t give you an answer on powder coating, but throat diameter will determine largest boolit diameter; if it is a lever action u have to seat the boolit short enough to allow function from magazine to chamber, which sometimes prevents seating to engage the lands, which is otherwise the most desirable seating depth, if accuracy is your objective.

[ILostMyGoat]

Is your .30-30 micro groove rifling (Marlin) or Winchester/Remington/ Savage/ H & R/ other….
If it’s micro groove try .310” or larger. If it’s not micro groove, u might get away with a .309” boolit.
I can’t give you an answer on powder coating, but throat diameter will determine largest boolit diameter; if it is a lever action u have to seat the boolit short enough to allow function from magazine to chamber, which sometimes prevents seating to engage the lands, which is otherwise the most desirable seating depth, if accuracy is your objective.

Is your .30-30 micro groove rifling (Marlin) or Winchester/Remington/ Savage/ H & R/ other….
If it’s micro groove try .310” or larger. If it’s not micro groove, u might get away with a .309” boolit.
I can’t give you an answer on powder coating, but throat diameter will determine largest boolit diameter; if it is a lever action u have to seat the boolit short enough to allow function from magazine to chamber, which sometimes prevents seating to engage the lands, which is otherwise the most desirable seating depth, if accuracy is your objective.

It’s a Winchester, I can’t seem to find moulds in .310 or .311 designed for my 30/30. I have just been looking on mid south and midway. Should I keep looking looking or go with a .309?


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[Winger Ed.]

Most .30 molds will drop a .310 or .311 boolit.
Run them through a .310 sizer and you'll be good to go.

[toallmy]

If you have a case that was fired out of your rifle and NOT resized try slipping a cast boolit sized at .311 in the case of it slides in the mouth of the unsized case you can shoot it out of your rifle safely .

[farmbif]

"can't seem to find molds .310 or .311 for 30-30." Lyman moulds and also lee moulds are cut so that cast bullets dropped from them will be a couple thousandths larger than the .309 that is included in the mold number. when using alloy such as Lyman #2. differences in alloy will drop out of molds at different diameters. the least expensive entry is with the lee 309-150f and the 309-170f, I think I currently have have 7 different 30-30 rifles. 3 of them are marlins with microgroove barrel.
years ago I got both of these lee molds and never needed anything different. The 309-170f will shoot well out of all the different guns and I use gas check and size at .311. all I use for alloy is clip on wheel weights with a little bit of tin, solder or pewter, added.
I often thought of getting some different molds but never have. the lee molds ive used for literally decades and I take care of my stuff and dont beat them to death to get bullets to drop out. there sure are a whole bunch of different options out there as far as molds and sizing and lube or powder coat. dont let it all confuse you.
as your just getting into the world of cast bullets you need certain things to Get started, a mold, a bullet sizing method, either a traditional lube sizer or push through sizing dies. someone earlier mentioned NOE push through sizing die

https://noebulletmolds.com/site/prod...ough-size-die/

if I were just starting out and was going to go all in on powder coating this is a very good option,
you will need a case neck expander. a set of RCBS or Hornady cowboy dies are a good way to go if they still offer them in 30-30.
anyway, like the sneaker commercial says, just do it, get mold, cast bullets, size, gas check and lube or coat them them and go shooting.

[ILostMyGoat]

"can't seem to find molds .310 or .311 for 30-30." Lyman moulds and also lee moulds are cut so that cast bullets dropped from them will be a couple thousandths larger than the .309 that is included in the mold number. when using alloy such as Lyman #2. differences in alloy will drop out of molds at different diameters. the least expensive entry is with the lee 309-150f and the 309-170f, I think I currently have have 7 different 30-30 rifles. 3 of them are marlins with microgroove barrel.
years ago I got both of these lee molds and never needed anything different. The 309-170f will shoot well out of all the different guns and I use gas check and size at .311. all I use for alloy is clip on wheel weights with a little bit of tin, solder or pewter, added.
I often thought of getting some different molds but never have. the lee molds ive used for literally decades and I take care of my stuff and dont beat them to death to get bullets to drop out. there sure are a whole bunch of different options out there as far as molds and sizing and lube or powder coat. dont let it all confuse you.
as your just getting into the world of cast bullets you need certain things to Get started, a mold, a bullet sizing method, either a traditional lube sizer or push through sizing dies. someone earlier mentioned NOE push through sizing die

https://noebulletmolds.com/site/prod...ough-size-die/

if I were just starting out and was going to go all in on powder coating this is a very good option,
you will need a case neck expander. a set of RCBS or Hornady cowboy dies are a good way to go if they still offer them in 30-30.
anyway, like the sneaker commercial says, just do it, get mold, cast bullets, size, gas check and lube or coat them them and go shooting.

Ahh I did not know they dropped slightly bigger! That is the exact info I needed! I’ve been very worried about being under size with a .309 mold. Any tips for breaking a mold in or care and maintaining them? Thank you!


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[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Ok so I have slugged my bore, now what? The rifle is a 30/30 and the bore slugged at .309. Does that mean I cast and shoot .309? How much bigger is still safe? How much does PC add ? Thanks guys!


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.309 will work fine.
PC does add size, the amount depends on your technique.
What's safe? anything that will easily chamber in your gun.

[charlie b]

Best thing for breaking in a mold is to clean it well (I use acetone) and then cast a couple hundred bullets. These will mostly be put back in the pot. But, it is a good time to get your casting technique worked on. I do not smoke molds or use any of that other mold release stuff. If the mold is good the bullets will drop out, sometimes with a tap or two on the hinge pin (yes, even Lee molds work without smoke ).

Depending on the mold maker you will get good bullets sooner. I have had good bullets come out of a mold after only 10 or 20 pours.

If going for full power in the rifle then get a mold for gas checks (like the Lee ones mentioned above). That also means you need a sizer. Lee makes them, but, I like the NOE type instead, a bushing type. That way if you want to size a little bigger/smaller you just buy another bushing.

PC adds about 0.002". Most cases you can cast, PC and then size. It depends on how the gas checks fit. Sometimes the GC shank is on the large size and you have to apply them before PC.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Ahh I did not know they dropped slightly bigger! That is the exact info I needed! I’ve been very worried about being under size with a .309 mold. Any tips for breaking a mold in or care and maintaining them? Thank you!


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When I get a new mold (or a used mold), I scrub it with a Toothbrush using Dish soap and hot water. I pre heat the mold on a hot plate, than start casting. If there is an issue (many times there isn't), that I quit casting, let the mold cool, then preheat the mold on the hot plate again, and start casting. Some times, a new mold needs 3 or 4 casting sessions to start functioning well. If, the mold is still having problems, that's when it's time to start looking for problems with alignment pins, or burrs at cavity edges, or venting problems. But rest assured, most of the time, a new mold will work great right out of the gate.

[Winger Ed.]

Any tips for breaking a mold in or care and maintaining them?

They get broken in with use, sort of like Grandma's old cast iron frying pan.

Treat them like the precision tool they are and don't bang 'em around.
That, and keep them oiled or otherwise prevent them from rusting or corroding is the best way to maintain them
when not in use.