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Thread: Heating the Lubesizer

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

    alamogunr's Avatar
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    Heating the Lubesizer

    Over the years I've read of members here using a standard clothes iron to heat the lubesizer. I've got a RCBS LAM2 and have used a light bulb if I needed heat. I found a cheap iron($3) at Goodwill and decided to try it. I had a length of copper bar 3/8" tk and about 4" wide. After drilling it for mounting bolts, I assembled it to the bench and set the iron on it. I thought I should start at the lowest heat setting. I should have stayed close by so I could see how warm(hot) it was getting. Liquid lube started seeping out without pressure. Oddly enough most of the liquid lube coming out looked like the dregs of some green RCBS lube that I had been trying to use up. I had gotten to the point where most of the lube on bullets was NRA Alox lube. Just a little green in the groove.

    Didn't really need that detail. What I'm hoping is that someone can tell be the best way to control the heat of the iron. I guess I can figure out by trial and error some plan for turning the iron on and off. to control the heat to the sizer. I'm hoping I don't have to do all over what someone else has already figured out. ??
    John
    W.TN

  2. #2
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    HATCH's Avatar
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    PID
    On my star sizer I use a PID with a ring terminal on a mounting bolt. You just need a reference temp not the exact temp. Just something that is repeatable.
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
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  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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    A PID is great for controlling heat in many things. I have separate ones now for my mold oven, my casting pot, my PC oven, and for my lubesizer. (They're pretty easy to build, too)
    KE4GWE - - - - - - Colt 1860, it just feels right.

  4. #4
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    I found a cheap iron($3) at Goodwill and decided to try it.
    Are you sure the control on the iron is working?
    It's used at Goodwill, maybe the control is corroded or welded closed, so it's on full blast at any setting?

    I use a small travel Iron and it needs to be somewhere between Min and Max...definitely not on lowest setting.
    I use Carnuba Red in that lubesizer with heater.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
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  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy dimaprok's Avatar
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    I made my home made heater that cost me about $1 and it works great. In the heart of it is heating element I picked up from ebay for about a dollar each, this was before trade Wars with China so I'm sure the prices went up now. I actually picked up three heaters in varying degrees of power. I think it was 3 watt, 5 and 10, it runs of 12v and I have a bunch of extra power adapters but you can pick one up from thrift store or ebay cheap.

    I had to mill the end if my RCBS and Lyman lube sizer base flat on the milling machine to get flat surface to get good contact and heat transfer. It was especially bad on my Lyman 450, I couldn't even attach lube sizer flat on my desk! You could flatten it also with belt / disk sender.

    The power consumption is really low about same as charging your cell phone. 12V 1Amp powe adapter is plenty, I added the power connector and some heat shrink tubing you could also add inline switch like the one used for UFO lights. If you get those variable voltage adapters I'm pretty sure you can control the amount of heat output.

    A piece of aluminum plate I had is about 3/8 thick 3.9" long and 3.3" wide, dimensions are not critical. I just used sharpie to draw outline and mill the cut out but you could do it with two pieces with one cut out with hacksaw and file and glue them together after.

    Right now mine gets a little too warm and lube starts to ooze out if you leave it pressurised. I will be playing with variable voltage / power.



    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    My Lyman 4500 was picked up at auction for $35, but it lacked the low power Lyman heater that is made for it.

    A standard 100W 3/8x2" cartridge heater was procured from Amazon for a few bucks, and I use a PID to control it. The end of a thermcouple is simply pinched between the lubrisizer and the board it is bolted to.

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  7. #7
    Boolit Master trapper9260's Avatar
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    Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
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    I have the factory one in a Lyman 4500. I plug it in and wait 20 mins, at which time I unplug it and start sizing boolits. Once the lube starts cooling to the point that the ratchet takes more effort to turn, I plug it back in for 5-7 minutes while I continue to size/lube boolits. Then I unplug it and the process starts over again.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I have Star units both with and without factory heaters. Since I'm using NRA50-50, l get started by playing a propane torch flame over the die cavity and lower reservoir tube. No waiting.

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy DAVIDMAGNUM's Avatar
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    On two of my Lyman/Ideal 45 presses I use a light dimmer to control the heater. It is not exact like my PID for the casting furnace but it is most definitely an adjustable control that works.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

    alamogunr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DAVIDMAGNUM View Post
    On two of my Lyman/Ideal 45 presses I use a light dimmer to control the heater. It is not exact like my PID for the casting furnace but it is most definitely an adjustable control that works.
    This sounds like the cheapest way to lower the temp of the iron. I'm definitely not going to invest $75 in a Lyman heater. Worst case scenario, I just turn up the heat in the shop. It really doesn't take much to make NRA lube flow. I've go an extra PID that I could take from one of the casting pots but would rather not.
    John
    W.TN

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I solved all these problems the low tech way ... soft lube !!!
    It's been working well for 50 years now .
    Soft lube works better than hard lube ... Lithium Grease(1 part)-Beeswax(3 parts) works best of all .
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master
    454PB's Avatar
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    You cannot discover new oceans unless you have the courage to lose sight of the shore

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy gnappi's Avatar
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    Jeez, you all reminded me I need to find my Star heater and do something with it.

    For me PC made it obsolete
    Regards,

    Gary

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
    John Guedry's Avatar
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    My wife's hair drier works fine. Once the lube starts I may have to "hit it" once or twice.
    Old retired guy in Baton Rouge La.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    I have a heat gun from Wagner that's adjustable for heat I have one that I use to thaw frozen pipes. I would guess you could use the same to warm a lube/sizer.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    I have commercial heaters for my units but if you don't want to spend the money, I wonder if an infrared bulb might work. You would want one that is flat in the front like a spotlight and you could vary how close and how far it was the best for you. They distribute heat much better than a regular light.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master Baltimoreed's Avatar
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    Built this rig to heat both my sizers.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 474043C0-E10A-42A0-B458-679ED9645996.jpg  

  19. #19
    Boolit Mold
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    I drilled a small hole in my Lyman 45 base for the tip of a soldering iron to fit into. used a cheap amazon soldering iron with dial-controlled heat output.

  20. #20
    Boolit Mold JH3855's Avatar
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    Probably the cheapest and most efficient way to regulate the precise flow of hard lubes is to purchase a reptile lamp from any pet store. They often come with a large alligator clip arrangement that allows for precise positioning of the lamp to adjust the heat. Some models feature a built in temperature control. The only drawback? You may have to keep your python or gecko near the clothes dryer vent during the time you are lubing bullets.
    Last edited by JH3855; 03-15-2022 at 03:40 PM.

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