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Thread: Brass Mould

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy shaman's Avatar
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    Brass Mould

    I just received a brass .735 mould from Track of the Wolf for my Brown Bess that's due to arrive any day.

    This is my first time with a brass mould. What would you all recommend as proper prep to get this mould ready for action. My instinct would be to polish it up with Flitz and have at it.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I wouldn't polish it. I would spray the insides with brake cleaner and scrub it with a toothbrush and cast with it.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

    Beagle333's Avatar
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    I use a toothbrush and Dawn on all of my brass molds, then start casting.
    KE4GWE - - - - - - Colt 1860, it just feels right.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy shaman's Avatar
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    OK, cool. Many thanks. This is easier than I thought.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

    gwpercle's Avatar
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    I don't like getting water around my moulds ... I clean with t00thbrush and Brake Cleaner , Lacquer Thinner or my favorite ... Acetone .

    Dawn and Water is for doing the dishes and baby ducks !
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  6. #6
    Boolit Master



    Tazman1602's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lightman View Post
    I wouldn't polish it. I would spray the insides with brake cleaner and scrub it with a toothbrush and cast with it.
    ^^^^^^^ This all day long….

    Art
    ”Only accurate rifles are interesting”
    ——Townsend Whelen


    In a time of universal deceit , telling the truth is a revolutionary act
    —- George Orwell

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I use carb cleaner, outside. Berrymans B12, has acetone, ether, alcohol and mek. Let dry, lube sprue plate and pins and pre-heat.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
    Mal Paso's Avatar
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    Actually tarnish is your friend, keeps the lead/tin from sticking. Heat cycle the mold to 400F a few times to give the mold some color before casting.

    They used to solder copper pipe to brass fittings with lead/tin alloy and it works well on clean brass.
    Mal

    Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master Nobade's Avatar
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    Also don't let it overheat or it can warp.

  10. #10
    Boolit Man
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    Clean it with acetone or denatured alcohol and give it a few heat cycles on an electric burner without letting the temp go crazy. Haven't ruined one yet.

  11. #11
    The Brass Man Four-Sixty's Avatar
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    I agree with a few heat cycles prior to use.

    I used my first brass mold right after receipt and saw a small spot where lead adhered to it like solder. Cleaned that off and baked it in the oven three times. It got a brownish/purple patina and lead sticks no more.

    I clean with soap and water only. Using brake cleaner only frustrated casting due to residues left behind
    "...journalism may be the greatest plague we face today - as the world becomes more and more complicated and our minds are trained for more and more simplification"
    Nassim Taleb
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  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy shaman's Avatar
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    Thanks guys! I'm taking notes.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    When you end your casting session and the mold is still hot, use a piece of wood with an edge to rub off any pieces of lead debris that accumulated on the parting surfaces. It’s easy to do while the mold is still hot, but can really stick if you leave it there as the mold cools off.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check