I need to know what the best wood filler for gunstock pores is. I'm sick of 14 + coats of Tru-oil to get the job done.
Any pore filler suggestions?
Thanks for any help
I need to know what the best wood filler for gunstock pores is. I'm sick of 14 + coats of Tru-oil to get the job done.
Any pore filler suggestions?
Thanks for any help
Are you Wet Sanding and letting the sawdust Mud dry on the stock before you sand for the next coat.
I wet sand my stocks with 320 to 400 grit when I use Linseed oil or Tru Oil.
As I am wet sanding with the finish like linseed or Tru oil, I rub the mud into the stock Cross Grain and let it dry.
The mud will fill the pores.
When you get the finish surface you want , then the last coat of finish is applied and wiped down to remove thick spots.
Then hand rubbed in your bare hands untill your hands are warm.
Last edited by LAGS; 01-18-2022 at 12:34 AM.
Maybe somebody will chime in with a better method. I did it years ago sanding down bare wood letting the fine dust settle in the pores. If I remember right as it was 25+ years ago. The first attempt was a failure but an improvement. The second try I sanded with the wet finish, let the dust and finish settle into the pores, steel wooded it down the next day and success.
If you Wet sand using the finish as the lubricant.
The sanding dust sticks to the wood.
I have seen guys try to wet sand with Water.
That just made things worse.
On bare wood , it opens the pores wider when it dries.
If you use water to wet sand , on a finished stock.
The dust just wipes and doesn't fill the pores.
If you don't want to do the sand routine, Permalyn filler works well. I often sand in the wipe on poly from Home Depot, that works also but you do need to sand it in to completely fill the pores.
The wood also determines what you need to do. A stock with a very open grain requires a little different technique than a close pored one.
On a new stock I normally block sand to 240 320 grit the raise he grain 1-2 times sanding between. I then apply a medium coat of tru oil and wet sand it in with 240 grit wet dry paper, this is block sanded in. Let this cure then lightly block sand with 320 the medium coat of tru oil and lightly block sand in.. then let cure at this point the stock is usually to the point where a couple light coats rubbed in by hand will finish it. For a finer finish steel wool between coats for 2-3 coats very light and hand rubbed in.
My system is very similar to LAGS. I used a small piece of 400 grit W&D sandpaper. Dab some oil on the stock and sand in a rotary movement using enough pressure to raise some sawdust. Then I use a soft cloth, like an old T-shirt to wipe the sawdust-oil slurry across the grain/pores. Only do an area about 2 inches square at a time, oil, sand, wipe, then move to the adjacent area. When finished, let it set up and harden. Next, repeat using the sandpaper and oil, just dabs not a lot, and use only enough pressure to sand down the hardened sawdust to flush with the stock but not enough to again raise sawdust. Again, wipe the results cross grain. When that dries you should have a smooth, satin finish that you can add coats of oil to if you want a high gloss or something in between. If you missed an area, or an area isn't filled satisfactorily, you can repeat the process on just that spot.
DG
Thanks to all you fine fellows that gave me information!!!
I'm no expert but have tried to learn about this and most experts recommend a sanding sealer such as birchwood casey offers specifically markets to gunstock refinishers. I have one on the bench right now that I'm taking my sweet time with. I came across a birchwood casey refinishing kit with three different little bottles, one is the 3oz clear sealer and filler and another is 3oz truoil.
Those wood sealers work good.
But not all the wood sealers on the market at your hardware store.
Some of those fill the wood good.
But they take a little away from the natural wood finish on some woods.
And with a gunstock , you don't have extra wood to see how they will work on your stock.
But the ones made for gunstock finishing have pretty much been tested.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and then i do minwax antique oil finish.
what LAGS said. when sanding down the sealer; if you don't get it ALL off the surface, there will be a discoloration at the spots where the finish covers the sealer
I used Tru Oil thinned with mineral spirits as a wet sanding lubricant, rubbed the mud into the pores with the heel of my hand.
Spell check doesn't work in Chrome, so if something is spelled wrong, it's just a typo that I missed.
Filling pores with oil finishes is a poor way to do it. The filled pores will likely shrink with time, not to mention not being very weather resistant if used on a hunting rifle. I gave up on that long ago (as well as walked away from Birchwood Casey products). Now, if doing an oil finish (which I only ever do on stocks that won't run the risk of being used in inclement weather), I'll fill the pores with epoxy (slather it on and sand back to bare wood without going too far and exposing fresh pores) or varnish, applied the same way. It may take a couple applications, and is certainly labor intensive and not for the craftsman who's in a hurry, but it works. Just my approach.
I did the Epoxy Finish on stocks before.
It comes out looking like a Weatherby finish.
It took a LONG time to finish.
But it is just not the look that I prefer.
But it is almost as weather resistant as a plastic stock.
LAGS said it all!
However I let the sanding grit get Set Up tacky and wipe it cross grain with cheap fast food style napkins ( not as absorbent as paper towels or rags) working the goop into the pores!
I pretty much remove 75 to 85% each time ...This makes the next wet sanding not a difficult than trying to sand off the entire fully dry stuff.
It is a slower process but easier on the hands
" Associate with men of good quality, if you esteem your own reputation: for it is better to be alone than in bad company. " George Washington
There is no substitute for hard work.
I know, the hard way.
I too am with LAGS. I use that very same approach. I've done it both with Tru Oil and genuine tung oil. It really does give a first rate finish. Follow it up with a good wax, like Renaissance, buffed in with OOOO steel wool. Then polish with a soft cotton cloth.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |