Reloading EverythingLee PrecisionWidenersInline Fabrication
Snyders JerkyRepackboxTitan ReloadingLoad Data
MidSouth Shooters Supply RotoMetals2
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 29 of 29

Thread: Separating fired brass for 2 different 45-70s

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master Don McDowell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Hell Gap Wy
    Posts
    6,097
    Probably the best bet meatball. You'll likely find that shiloh does it's best work with grease groove bullets that are slip fit in fired cases.
    Long range rules, the rest drool.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Lynn Ma
    Posts
    827
    Why not Nickle cases for one and stansa4d brass for the other?
    Last edited by DocSavage; 01-19-2022 at 03:01 PM.

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master Don McDowell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Hell Gap Wy
    Posts
    6,097
    That's what I do between the 2 miroku built high walls, rp nickel in the Browning, rp brass in the Winchester.
    Long range rules, the rest drool.

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master Don McDowell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Hell Gap Wy
    Posts
    6,097
    Then there’s people like me the only time I shoot on a public range is when traveling to a match and it’s a pretty sure bet there wont be any usable brass left laying around


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Long range rules, the rest drool.

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    West central Illinois
    Posts
    338
    What's a sizing die??
    Every rifle has designated brass, it's easy to notch the rim. Hand seat the bullets in fired cases. Only shoot BP.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master



    skeettx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Amarillo, Texas
    Posts
    4,105
    Remington cases in one, Winchester in another, Federal in another, Starline in another
    Mike
    NRA Benefactor 2004 USAF RET 1971-95

  7. #27
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    38
    I mark my brass using a center drill in a drill press with different combinations of marks. You can use a 5c collet holder or drill a 1/2 inch hole in a 2x4 with the 2" edge up. That is for 45-70. Drill a 29/64" hole for 38-50, 27/64 for 38-55 and 9/16 for most of the 50s. You don't have to clamp the case just index it with the rim with your finger.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20220209_065349625_copy_612x816.jpg 
Views:	15 
Size:	35.7 KB 
ID:	296011Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20220209_065349625_copy_612x816.jpg 
Views:	15 
Size:	35.7 KB 
ID:	296011

  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Mesa, AZ
    Posts
    134
    I've been following this thread and don't remember anyone saying this. To me the simplest solution is to use one brand of brass for one rifle and a different brand for the other rifle. I know brass is hard to come by these days but diligent searching would probably turn up some Federal, Remington, Winchester or Hornady brass to go with a stash of Star Line already on hand. (switch the brands around as needed - lol)

    Just sayin',
    Dave

  9. #29
    Boolit Grand Master Harter66's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    120 miles North of Texarkana 9 miles from OK in the green hell
    Posts
    5,349
    Brass black on the head and rim or mouth .

    I worked a job once that used straight chlorine bleach as a disinfectant , I spilled some on a sterling silver ring it was instantly black , the gold inset not so much . Until this moment I hadn't given any thought to how brass might respond to such an oxidizer . I would decap after the exposure and quickly if possible . Maybe I'll go check it out .
    In the time of darkest defeat,our victory may be nearest. Wm. McKinley.

    I was young and stupid then I'm older now. Me 1992 .

    Richard Lee Hart 6/29/39-7/25/18


    Without trial we cannot learn and grow . It is through our stuggles that we become stronger .
    Brother I'm going to be Pythagerus , DiVinci , and Atlas all rolled into one soon .

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check