Which size .45 mold to get?

[dearslayer]

I finally got around to slugging the barrel on my Ruger SR1911 and it slugged to .452. I eventually want to order a 452-200 HP 4 cavity mold from MP molds for this caliber. The one I was thinking to get is currently sold out and it’s the” No lube Groove “ because I’ll be powder coating. So the question I have is what size should I get when it does become available? Should I go .002 over the slugged sized, or maybe just .001 over, or just stick with the .452? I can purchase whatever sizing kit I need from Lee here in Canada. Here’s the link……




https://www.mp-molds.com/product/10859/

[RKJ]

I have this one in .452 and it is awesome. I PC and get coverage and the benefits even with the lube grooves. It's not a HP but from what I can tell it's a true H&G 68 clone and shoots lights out of my 1911's. MP 452-185 SWC HP PB 4 cavity

[Loudy13]

be careful you might just end up buying 2 or 3 molds after buying one from MP. I have a 230gr HP from NOE, a 200gr Hp/solid from NOE and a 68 clone from MP and I am not against buying another one at some point.
With that being said I have fired 3500+ of the 200 grain Hp's they cast great they shoot even nicer and its my go to reload. I have another 2500 cast and waiting to be seated

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

How thick is your applied PC?

[dearslayer]

I have this one in .452 and it is awesome. I PC and get coverage and the benefits even with the lube grooves. It's not a HP but from what I can tell it's a true H&G 68 clone and shoots lights out of my 1911's. MP 452-185 SWC HP PB 4 cavity

Is this the one you are referring to? So am I to assume that if it drops at .452 and my barrel is .452 that the powder coating will make up the difference for say .001 over. I would need to size to .453 correct?

https://www.mp-molds.com/product/mp-452-185-swc-hp-pb/

[RKJ]

Is this the one you are referring to? So am I to assume that if it drops at .452 and my barrel is .452 that the powder coating will make up the difference for say .001 over. I would need to size to .453 correct?

https://www.mp-molds.com/product/mp-452-185-swc-hp-pb/

Yes, I PC with the shake and bake method and they usually measure out at .454. I run them through a 4500 sizer with a .452 die and they shoot fine through both my 1911s. I haven't rested the guns for groups as I'm just plinking but the bullet shoots as good as I can.

[greenjoytj]

I finally got around to slugging the barrel on my Ruger SR1911 and it slugged to .452”

I hope you used a good micrometer for your bullet measurements and are not relying on vernier calipers measurements when making expense decisions in regards to + or - 0.001” (1 thou).

[nueces5]

To measure your barrel do you use a pure lead slug?
I have made the mistake of using alloy and then the measurement is not correct.
I don't really have that much experience measuring new 45's, but the ones I have measured have been .450 or .451, at least I find it strange that a new gun is 452.
I use PCs on my 45, and it adds one or two thousandths.
I have the look at that mold that shows, and the hg 68.
I will follow this thread

[oley55]

I have an MP 452-200-NLG flat point 6 cavity that that casts to 225 grains. Unfortunately my notes do not tell me my as cast size, but I know it takes some muscle on my Rock Chucker to size them to my desired size. They are PC'd via shake n bake and then using a NOE 452 sizing die (.4525") using 50/50 alloy (coww/soft lead).

Although I am more than satisfied with this mold/bullet if I had to do over, I would not have gone with the NLG. When sizing the lead needs some where to flow to and having lube grooves would be easier. Besides who knows what the future holds and if PCing for whatever reason isn't an option and have to lube via more traditional methods. From all I have read here there seems to be zero issue with PCing lube groove bullets. Why eliminate other options down the road?

As for hollow point bullets that's probably a whole new discussion item. I question the velocities needed for the hollow point to deform in our low velocity 45acp with the alloy we are using. It is my opinion factory jacketed hollow points are using pure lead and are being pushed faster than anything our PC'd bullets can be. Besides looking meaner I seriously question the functional value of hollow point 45 ACP cast bullets. Just something to think about and/or investigate further as I am no expert.

[dearslayer]

To measure your barrel do you use a pure lead slug?
I have made the mistake of using alloy and then the measurement is not correct.
I don't really have that much experience measuring new 45's, but the ones I have measured have been .450 or .451, at least I find it strange that a new gun is 452.
I use PCs on my 45, and it adds one or two thousandths.
I have the look at that mold that shows, and the hg 68.
I will follow this thread

Actually it's not a new gun I bought it used and I'm not sure how many rounds were down the pipe before I got it but I put about 1,000 at least through it. As for the lead used to slug the barrel I'm not sure about that either. I had a bunch of 44 caliber bullets that were given to me so I just melted down a couple of those in a 45 casing to use to slug the barrel. Perhaps I should use soft lead?

[dearslayer]

I hope you used a good micrometer for your bullet measurements and are not relying on vernier calipers measurements when making expense decisions in regards to + or - 0.001” (1 thou).

Unfortunately I don't own a micrometer and I'm measuring with the calipers. I guess I should get a micrometer.

[NuJudge]

You should get a micrometer.

You should also get suggestions as to molds you might want, then go request someone to send you some of those bullets in the forum we have for that purpose. If you think you might want it in different diameters, ask for it in different diameters.

What bullet you want is largely determined by what you want to do with it. It is important for a beginner to have an immediate success, so I would try something that works for most everybody. I would probably suggest to a beginner something like a H&G 68.

[dearslayer]

You should get a micrometer.

You should also get suggestions as to molds you might want, then go request someone to send you some of those bullets in the forum we have for that purpose. If you think you might want it in different diameters, ask for it in different diameters.

What bullet you want is largely determined by what you want to do with it. It is important for a beginner to have an immediate success, so I would try something that works for most everybody. I would probably suggest to a beginner something like a H&G 68.

I'm already looking to get a micrometer and that mold is the one I have in my cart at MP molds. Just waiting to re slug my barrel with soft lead before ordering the correct size. Thanks.

[megasupermagnum]

You don't need a micrometer to measure a slug. It can't hurt, but calipers tell you everything you need to know. Around here you will hear "size is king". It is important, but you can't necessarily tell the best size for you with a micrometer. You can only get a general idea of what is best. What's more important is that your brass isn't squeezing your perfect bullets down to .450".

Nearly all bullet molds will drop bigger than they say. You will have no problem with undersized bullets. I will suggest that you get the lube groove version. More than one person has found them more accurate, plus they are far more useful in the future. Even if you don't ever see yourself using a wax lube, trying to sell a NLG mold isn't going to be easy. The only reason for a NLG bullet is for ease of casting, and I really doubt you are going to be able to see any difference with a hollow point mold.

If you haven't already noticed, Lee sells two kinds of sizers, the old style, and a new bushing style. The bushings are cheap. There's no reason at all not to try both .452" and .453" on target. I haven't had a lot of 45 acp guns, but I think you are likely to run into chambering or throat size problems with a .454" bullet.

[Forrest r]

^^^^^^ very well written megasupermagnum!!!!

[dearslayer]

Is it better to slug a barrel from the muzzle end or the chamber end to start?

[nueces5]

More easy start from the chamber

You can do what Megasupermagnum says too, I've been doing boolits recently,
the system of measuring everything, made me learn a lot about reloading, much more than before, when I bought commercial bullets, it made me admire those who make boolits, it is not easy to make them work in all weapons

[dearslayer]

Well I slugged the barrel again with stick on wheel weight lead. Used an empty 45 case to pour melted lead in but I did have a problem trying to get the lead to fill out smoothly in the case for some reason so had to do it a couple times and even after slugging it was difficult to get consistent measurements. Seems it's all over the place from 0.4495 to 0.452. this is because there are areas on the slug whereby it wasn't filled smooth. Most measurements Were in the neighborhood of 0.455 to 0.451 so I think 0.451 is where it's at.

[nueces5]

Make a boolit with the mold of 45 that you have
then lubricate with some light oil inside the barrel, and with a stick help it pass, tightly through the inside of the barrel, from the chamber to the mouth. Then measure it, the ideal is with a micrometer, that's how I started. Then I bought a digital mitutoyo caliper and it's almost as good.
If you've done it this way, you should measure less than .455, I think.
My Colt .45 System was manufactured in 1952, it has a few years of use on it, and with that original barrel it measures .450.

[Greg S]

I have an MP 452-200 HP mold. It drops bigger than .452 and I size down to .4525 for my FA 83 45 acp cylinder. You'll be good perticularly powder coating.

I find it odd, because all the 1911 barrels that I have measured are .451 and will not chamber a a .552 bullet unless the barrel has been throated or you load short.