Is that a Remington stock? I collect mosins and this sporter is not to shabby, I have a sporter M39 that shoots one hole groups at 100 yards with the barnul 203gn
It’s nice to see a sporterized Mosin that hasn’t gone “tactical”. Yours really looks good.
Shoot Safe,
Mike
Retired Telephone Man
NRA Endowment Member
Marion Road Gun Club
( www.marionroad.com )
That is a sweet looking milsurp sporter. Reminds me of my youth.
Nice looking rifle.
My first Center Fire Rifle build was a MN.
I have built many Custom ones and still have another Boyds stock to build one more.
can you imaging if it did that before it was transformed? gosh!
Have you altered the safety knob, can't see it in your picture. Is an after market safety available ? It looks as good any Mosin sporter I have ever seen.
I have used the Timney Trigger with the side safety on most of the MNs that I built.
I think I still have two left from the lot that I bought.
They work great.
But you have to inlet the stock to make them fit.
I did quite a few , and glass bedded the whole action.
So I made a Dummy trigger form out of wood to form the bedding to the exact shape needed to clear all trigger parts.
Very cool!
Nice rifle! Tokarev has good advice. Check out the muzzle and condition of the bore out there at the end of the barrel. If it's in good shape ~ great. If not, don't be afraid to either counter bore or actually shorten it enough to address the issues. A good crown makes a world of difference.
I agree concerning the crown/muzzle. Many milsurps suffer from crown wear or damage. Your barrel looks long enough to cut off a couple of inches and give it a new crown.
Shoot Safe,
Mike
Retired Telephone Man
NRA Endowment Member
Marion Road Gun Club
( www.marionroad.com )
Some anecdotal evidence suggest that a crown means close to nothing, and a barrel sawed-off with a hacksaw shoots no different than the same but crowned. The flared bore however ruins accuracy. Counterboring allows one to keep front sights and bayonet lugs, so it's the preferred method of fixing shot-out milsurps.
Looks like one of the old nicely-proportioned Fajen stocks on that rifle.
This made me think. Is it possible to thread a 91/30 barrel? I am sending a rem 700 to be threaded and I thought of asking them to try a Mosin.
Should be a piece of cake if wartime CCCP manufacture. Pre-WWII or Russian Empire manufacture could be heat-treated but I am not 100% positive.
The doctrine has changed during the WWII: they powers that be decided that a soldier would survive for less than the length of time it takes for a barrel to become worn, so heat treatment was ditched. That's what I was told.
Use a needle file on an inconspicuous area of the barrel and see how easily it cuts. If it does, then threading won't pose any problem.
But allow me to ask: are you planning to thread for a brake? A full-length 91-30 does not normally need a brake. 38 and 41 carbines are a totally different story.
This rifle has a Fajen stock. The safety is original and quite awkward. Recoil is tolerable. Thank you for the suggestions but I'm pleased with the accuracy as it is because after all, this is a customized Soviet battle rifle.
TR
Last edited by T.R.; 01-29-2022 at 07:49 AM. Reason: fixed spelling
Remarks by President Biden on the Hostage Situation at Congregation Beth Israel in Colleyville, Texas, January 16, 2022:
"But you can’t stop something like this if someone is on the street buying something from somebody else on the street."
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |