Brownells Busts WD40

[Tripplebeards]

I used it in the past on PCd boolits. I sprayed them before running them through my lee sizers. Now I just run them though without any type of lube.

[Mal Paso]

. And when I want what I think is the best penetrant, I mix acetone and auto trans fluid. It works pretty well, better than WD-40 when I'm in a hurry, but it's a PITA to keep around.

These are not cheap but mine has paid for itself. I keep it full of ATF and Acetone 50/50 and don't have to worry about the Acetone evaporating. It pressurizes with an air compressor. It holds pressure for years so you could charge it at a gas station if you don't have a compressor. 100 PSI Max but 30 is plenty to get a good spray.

ATF/Acetone has beaten All the commercial rust busters/penetrating oils in numerous tests.

[john.k]

The effective rust penetrators of the past had now banned chemicals in them ,like carbon disulfide,and carbon tet,......the most effective ones for marine use have nitric acid in them ,so you wont be seeing them in the hardware store.

[thegatman]

I bought a browning gold stalker semi auto 10 gauge brand new around 90’. Think it was $1200 at the time. I sprayed wd40 in and on it after a wet hunting outing. It melted the plug and all the plastic internals. Expensive lesson learned.

Yup I had cleaned mine with a non-synthetic cleaner. Did the same thing. I had to replace a bunch of parts. I went with an aluminum follower.

[ulav8r]

In 1977 Jack Belk was talking about WD40 one day. Said it would not gum up if used properly. If used on parts that had some other oil that was not completely removed. then it would gum, or if too much was left on parts for more than a year it would gum. It is a light machine oil similar to 3 in 1 with lots of Stoddard Solvent and a few other minor ingredients. Best use on guns it to clean out gunk and as a lubricant on 4ought steel wool to remove rust. Afte those uses it should be wiped off and a proper lubricant and/or preservative used. Don't leave WD40 to react with other products.

[Scrounge]

WD40 is just silicone waxes dissolved in a light oil. It's the waxes that work to protect metal surfaces but gum up fine mechanisms. It was never intended as a lubricant. I have had several opportunities to open locks seized solid as a result of WD40, in all cases a good dose of WD40 re-dissolved the waxes and I was able to open lock.

Clock repairers like the stuff. A regular occurrence is a customer comes in with an old clock and the story is "it wasn't running, I sprayed it liberaly with WD40 and it worked, now it won't " . Clock repairer tells them it's a difficult costly repair, come back in a fortnight. Repairer simply drops the clock mechanism into a bucket of white spirit, paraffin or meths and leaves it to soak. A few days later there's a ticking sound coming from the bucket. The clock is taken out, hung up to dry followed by a proper cleaning and lubrication. Not a lot of effort required so its a nice little earnerl

https://files.wd40.com/pdf/sds/mup/w...sds-us-ghs.pdf

You see silicone waxes listed there? petroleum oil and solvent. Originally, fish oil and Stoddard Solvent. They keep tweaking the formula, but it's light oil and solvent.

Bill

[Scrounge]

In 1977 Jack Belk was talking about WD40 one day. Said it would not gum up if used properly. If used on parts that had some other oil that was not completely removed. then it would gum, or if too much was left on parts for more than a year it would gum. It is a light machine oil similar to 3 in 1 with lots of Stoddard Solvent and a few other minor ingredients. Best use on guns it to clean out gunk and as a lubricant on 4ought steel wool to remove rust. Afte those uses it should be wiped off and a proper lubricant and/or preservative used. Don't leave WD40 to react with other products.

Lots of folks want to buy one thing, and use it for everything. Then they wonder why it doesn't always work the way they expect. Use it right, it's good stuff. Use it wrong, it's not good stuff.

Bill

[Scrounge]

These are not cheap but mine has paid for itself. I keep it full of ATF and Acetone 50/50 and don't have to worry about the Acetone evaporating. It pressurizes with an air compressor. It holds pressure for years so you could charge it at a gas station if you don't have a compressor. 100 PSI Max but 30 is plenty to get a good spray.

ATF/Acetone has beaten All the commercial rust busters/penetrating oils in numerous tests.

I've got an air compressor, but I'm too cheap to buy one of those sprayers until I just absolutely can't live without it. Then I'll probably need two or three. Yep. Acetone makes a great vehicle for the oil, and will carry it deep into rust and gunk. Then it evaporates, and the ATF sucks in after it, and helps things to move out of the way, and lubricate the parts touching each other. Then you wiggle it a bit, and it comes apart. When I've used it, I make it a couple of ounces at a time, shake well, and usually brush or pour it on. Note: "wiggling it a bit" can be anything from a small wrench to an 8 pound hammer. YMMV!

Bill

Bill

[Scrounge]

Its a great cutting fluid for aluminum and a good gentle tool and machine cleaner. Supposedly, grandpa would wash his hands with it for arthritis.

Saw a collection of suggested uses for WD-40 one time. There was a guy who swore by it for that purpose. Having spent much more time around aromatic hydrocarbons that was really good for me tells me I do not want to do that. And I've had arthritis since I was 17. We used benzine to clean the leaking hydraulic fluid off the panels under the horizontal stabilizers of my F-111D fighter jets when I was only a few years older, and it didn't help at all! Bucket of benzine, and rag, no gloves. This was back when USAF compliance with OSHA regulations was voluntary, and not compelled.

Bill

[fiberoptik]

We are gardeners - it works great on preserving shovels, trowels, rakes, etc. I have gardening tools that are over 30 years old and, while they are worn they are still rust free. Wash off the dirt and spray with WD40 and put away. I've gone through a gallon and bought a second and it has never touched any of my guns!

Take a pail & fill with sand. Add used motor oil and mix a bit. Whenever you use your tools, afterwards stick in the pail and put away. Cleaned and oiled in 2 seconds!
Btw, wd-40 does have a good use: killing wasps and hornets. Spray nests or flying ones & insta-kill!


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[David2011]

Beg to differ. I've been using the stuff since it came out, and it is useful. It is not a miracle cure for everything, though there are people who think so. And they're just as wrong as you are.

I've been a mechanic on home and industrial appliances, high performance fighter jets, mainframe and microcomputers, automobiles, military satellite communications systems, and a bit of audiovisual equipment, among other things. Seems to me you prefer Kroil? Kroil is a solvent with mineral oil, solvent, and some other additives very similar to WD-40. Not exactly the same, but not too very different. I don't doubt it works better for some things than WD-40. But I wouldn't expect miracles out of it, either.

I'm told if you really want to protect metal from corrosion, you need Boeshield. I've never tried it because it's expensive. An 8oz pump spray bottle is about $11. That's a couple of cans of WD-40 for short term, or a quart of most any good oil. There are lots of chemicals that will damage or destroy plastics. Kroil contains some of them, too.
Bill

Bill, you seriously underestimate Kroil. It’s what PB Blaster and Knock-er-Loose want to be. Boeshield is worth every penny. Most of my woodworking machinery is old cast iron and was purchased with anywhere from a little to completely covered in rust. After I removed the rust every bare cast iron surface was treated with Boeshield and paste waxed after the Boeshield dried. The machines remain rust free in the Gulf Coast humidity.

I used it in the past on PCd boolits. I sprayed them before running them through my lee sizers. Now I just run them though without any type of lube.

That works with WD-40. I made the mistake of lubing a single boolit with Kroil once and had a terrible time getting the boolit unstuck from my sizer. Kroil makes a lousy lubricant.

[fiberoptik]

I've got an air compressor, but I'm too cheap to buy one of those sprayers until I just absolutely can't live without it. Then I'll probably need two or three. Yep. Acetone makes a great vehicle for the oil, and will carry it deep into rust and gunk. Then it evaporates, and the ATF sucks in after it, and helps things to move out of the way, and lubricate the parts touching each other. Then you wiggle it a bit, and it comes apart. When I've used it, I make it a couple of ounces at a time, shake well, and usually brush or pour it on. Note: "wiggling it a bit" can be anything from a small wrench to an 8 pound hammer. YMMV!

Bill

Bill

Use a metal can/lid.


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[fiberoptik]

Saw a collection of suggested uses for WD-40 one time. There was a guy who swore by it for that purpose. Having spent much more time around aromatic hydrocarbons that was really good for me tells me I do not want to do that. And I've had arthritis since I was 17. We used benzine to clean the leaking hydraulic fluid off the panels under the horizontal stabilizers of my F-111D fighter jets when I was only a few years older, and it didn't help at all! Bucket of benzine, and rag, no gloves. This was back when USAF compliance with OSHA regulations was voluntary, and not compelled.

Bill

And the Marines gave me a green scrubpad and a gallon of muriatic acid to scrub urinals with mineral buildup. I asked for gloves too. Gunny just said, ”You’re a Marine, just use your hands!”
I got rid of the mineral buildup and most of the skin off my hands !


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[Cosmic_Charlie]

I used to use it to clean my motorcycle chains before lubing them. Now i just use lucas chain lube and my current chain has 20K miles on it and no stiff links. Before my chains were toast at 15K.

[john.k]

I had Ford cars in the 70s......a big water splash ,and you had 10 seconds to get off the road before the motor cut out.......Out with the WD40,spray the leads and inside the cap,even in the rain,and youd be going again.

[Land Owner]

WD-40 will also soften (and ruin) the wood stock of a rifle. A squirt on the barrel, placed barrel up in the safe, the WD-40 runs down and softens the wood.

[Tripplebeards]

Yup I had cleaned mine with a non-synthetic cleaner. Did the same thing. I had to replace a bunch of parts. I went with an aluminum follower.

I traded that gun off for the “light” aluminum receiver 30” stalker version the first year they came out with it…91’ or 92’ I believe. I then traded it for the national wild Turkey federation gold light version I still have today.

About the only thing I use WD-40 now is cleaning white walls.

[Scrounge]

And the Marines gave me a green scrubpad and a gallon of muriatic acid to scrub urinals with mineral buildup. I asked for gloves too. Gunny just said, ”You’re a Marine, just use your hands!”
I got rid of the mineral buildup and most of the skin off my hands !


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You're a Marine. You're not really supposed to have brains. Just be tougher than Hell. I'm Air Force. We were supposed to have brains. I won't swear that was always true, after all I was Air Force, myself. But prolonged exposure to benzine can damage your brain. And mine wasn't any too great when I enlisted. That was about 48 years ago.

[Scrounge]

Bill, you seriously underestimate Kroil. It’s what PB Blaster and Knock-er-Loose want to be. Boeshield is worth every penny. Most of my woodworking machinery is old cast iron and was purchased with anywhere from a little to completely covered in rust. After I removed the rust every bare cast iron surface was treated with Boeshield and paste waxed after the Boeshield dried. The machines remain rust free in the Gulf Coast humidity.



That works with WD-40. I made the mistake of lubing a single boolit with Kroil once and had a terrible time getting the boolit unstuck from my sizer. Kroil makes a lousy lubricant.

David, I've just looked at the SDS sheets for both of them. They are different, but not by that much. One ingredient can make a big difference, so I'm not saying they're the same. Just that they have similar chemicals, and those chemicals do the same things in both cases. Both Kroil and WD-40 have aromatic hydrocarbons, and aliphatic hydrocarbons. Solvents and oils. Kroil has one more that may make a big difference, but I've not needed that difference in my work or home life. And I don't expect WD-40 to be the cure-all that some folks are looking for. My major argument is with the folks who say Kroil is best and WD-40 (or about anything else) is utter trash, and the ones who say WD-40 is best, and Kroil (or about anything else) is utter trash. Neither is always true.

You can use water as a lubricant. And for most stuff, it would be better than running the parts dry. Maybe not by much, but some. It is absolutely NOT a good lubricant. Put it in an engine, and you might as well have burned the money you used to buy that engine. It will not last long.

As I mentioned, I've never used Kroil. It might work fine as a water displacement treatment, and it might not. It's not advertised as such. Maybe there's a reason for that. WD-40 now sells a Rust Preventative. I haven't tried it, either. Nor any of their many other new special purpose products. Though it could happen that someday I might find I need something special, and buy a can of one of their new products to try. If I tripped over a can of Kroil, I might try it, too. AFAIK, and I've got a small collection of old cast iron tools around here too, most of which were acquired with substantial rust, paste wax can be good. Once the rust came off, paste wax alone is sufficient to keep them from rusting, though I generally use a coating of oil. That works as well, as long as you re-apply it frequently. Which is also true of paste wax. My last employer bought paste wax by the case for use on some of our equipment. One advantage of paste wax is that once it dries it won't attract dust, and our work environment was full of dust. Even my home shop tends to be full of dust. I'm in process of refurbing, again, an old Lewis shaper that is once again frozen. It was oiled after it's last refurb, and then sat here for several years with Mobil 1 as the lube and protector. There is no rust. There is a film of muddy oil however. Dang it!

Funny thing. I'll be using WD-40 to strip that oily mud off. This time, it will get proper spindle and way oils applied, and a dust cover. I have projects to do on that poor little shaper that means it will get a bunch of use, so it needs to stay lubed. Boeshield seems to not be what it needs.

Bill

[Scrounge]

And the Marines gave me a green scrubpad and a gallon of muriatic acid to scrub urinals with mineral buildup. I asked for gloves too. Gunny just said, ”You’re a Marine, just use your hands!”
I got rid of the mineral buildup and most of the skin off my hands !


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Forgot to mention here that I once built racing go karts for my uncle. We used a sprayer bottle to apply the muriatic acid we used to strip rust off the frames. If you were careful of overspray, you didn't need gloves. OSHA was just a baby then. Late 1973, and 74-75 on the aircraft maintenance.

Bill