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Thread: Ruger Muzzle Brake Stuck

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy


    thegatman's Avatar
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    Try this company for your next brake,
    https://gentrycustom.com/Products/Qu...9/Default.aspx
    They fixed my Striker pistol.

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Hard to believe heat did not do the trick. Did your son buy the gun used or new? If he bought it used, did some "gunsmith" attach it with epoxy?

    I would be sending it back to Ruger. If they screw it up it will be their problem.
    Don Verna

    NRA Endowment Member

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Most epoxies break down at the same temps as red locktite.

    depending on barrel weight and mass how you hold it while heating will make a big difference bet is with the break up and barrel down. Heat rises this way the heat is going into the break. Not being pulled back into the barrel and vise. If th barrel and break are heavy with thicker walls it may take some soak time at temp to get them fully up to temp.

    Chances are you have a good way to soak this on hand. FIll your electric lead pot and heat to 650-700* then dip the flash hider in and block up let soak 20-30 mins in the lead at temp.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master 243winxb's Avatar
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    While applying torque to the jam nut, use a plastic or Rawhide mallet to vibrate the brake. Repeated/ fast tapping on the face of the brake. Best with 4 hands.

    Did Ruger say they use Red Loctite? If yes, 500 degree heat is needed.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master murf205's Avatar
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    What baffles me is that my son told me that the rifle was new with the thread protector on it and he unscrewed it and screwed the brake on hand tight so a 7/8's wrench 12" long should take it off. The Ruger tech I talked to said they didn't use Loctite...hmmm. I heater the brake/muzzle from the bottom and sides and I got it HOT.
    IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!

  6. #26
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by murf205 View Post
    I'm not going to go quite that far. My son would have a duck and I couldn't blame him. But I have an ace in the hole, Mr Jimmy McCollough of McCollough Rifle Co is only about 30 min away from me and he has bailed me out before.
    Personally I would take the drive instead of the hassle of shipping back and forth to Ruger.

  7. #27
    Boolit Buddy 1006's Avatar
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    Sounds like a trip to the gunsmith is the easiest solution.

  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy
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    You've tried heat, why not try cold, give it a crushed ice and salt bath, that should shrink both
    the barrel and break away from each other.
    Be sure to wash the salt water off and use a oil on the barrel/break.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master


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    Ruger told me to put in a barrel vice, insert a steel rod through the muzzle brake and unscrew it. Use the largest diameter rod that will pass through the brake. And as you have indicated, it is tight. It will break loose with a snap and a pretty good amount of force. No mention was made about using heat or cold. I had mine off in less than a minute after it was placed in the vice. Good luck.
    Before you embark on a journey of revenge, dig two graves.

    ― Confucius

  10. #30
    Boolit Master
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    You mentioned one important thing.
    You have to clamp the barrel in a Barrel Vise that circles the barrel for a full grip.
    Trying to hold the barrel in a standard vise , won't keep the barrel from rotating.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master murf205's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LAGS View Post
    You mentioned one important thing.
    You have to clamp the barrel in a Barrel Vise that circles the barrel for a full grip.
    Trying to hold the barrel in a standard vise , won't keep the barrel from rotating.
    That is correct. I had the leather in the vise but it still wouldn't hold the barrel. I am waiting on my son to get back with me and let him decide if he wants the brake on or off. I do the load development for him and I can't stand brakes. It even gives my Chrony a fit much less the Magneto Speed chronograph. If he doesn't care to know the speed of the round it is cool with me. Since this is a short range rifle, it will not be earth shattering not to clock it but the darn thing will make your ears ring if you hunt with it and don't use ear protection. I can't do that but heck, I have tinnitus already.
    IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!

  12. #32
    Boolit Master
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    In some cases I made Blocks to fit the barrel and used my Vise to clamp the blocks around the barrel.
    I just used some 1x2 hardwood like maple or Oak.
    I cut 4 pieces about 3" long.
    I glued two pieces together , then the other two together.
    Then I lined up the two glued blocks in the drill press , and drilled a hole a little smaller than the size on the barrel where I was going to clamp it.
    Now you will have Two blocks with a half circle.
    Place them around the barrel and clamp it in the vise with the barrel going Vertical and the break pointing up.
    That gives you more surface of the blocks on the vise.
    I forgot.
    When you are drilling the hole for the barrel.
    Put an 1/8" spacer between the two blocks , so when the hole is drilled ,it leaves a little room between the blocks for compression.
    I have used leather and mostly sheet lead to keep the barrel from slipping if it still slips using the bare wood.
    This is a simple cheap fix that does work in a lot of cases.
    I made Blocks for my barrel vise in this way so I don't have to keep buying blocks for odd sized barrels like my Octagon muzzleloader barrels to remove the breech plug.

  13. #33
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    If you can get the locknut flats in a good smooth jaw vise, then putting a rod through it like Ruger says should work. Holding the flats in a vise and heating the brake should work.

    Is it this brake?

    Click image for larger version. 

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  14. #34
    Boolit Master murf205's Avatar
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    Yep, that's it. Again, if it was mine, I'd do just that but even though he is my son, it is his rifle and I'm going to let him make the call.
    IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check