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Thread: pine shavings vs sawdust for flux

  1. #21
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    Wax is a reducer..... and puts the Sn & Sb back into your alloy from the sludge on the top.

    To clean really dirty COWW re-melts, you should try (three times) a flux like wood of some kind. Then on the final flux use wax to get a perfectly clean batch of COWW's ready for ingots. I use bees wax 100% of the time. Higher flash point and lovely smell! Only takes 2 or 3 pea-sized pieces to git-er-dun.

    Also use bees wax in your casting pot to keep the Sn in solution and a mirror-bright surface during casting. 1 pea sized hunk does it.


    banger

  2. #22
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    I've been using beeswax so far, but saved up some sawdust from building my reloading bench. Now after seeing the comments on using dust from pressure treated wood, I'm questioning my decision to save the plywood stuff.

  3. #23
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    I cast bullets for accuracy rifle. I don't want any added impurities I can avoid. I use beeswax only, and stir and roll to get as much impurities as I can out. Putting impurities in the mix just doesn't make sense to me. Do they all float to the top?

  4. #24
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    If you want oiled sawdust or chips look under the sprocket cover on your chain saw.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by PopcornSutton View Post
    I cast bullets for accuracy rifle. I don't want any added impurities I can avoid. I use beeswax only, and stir and roll to get as much impurities as I can out. Putting impurities in the mix just doesn't make sense to me. Do they all float to the top?
    Just like the carbon the beeswax burns into.
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  6. #26
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    Either will work, and the pedigree of one versus the other is about equal, but pine shavings smell SO GOOD as they burn!
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  7. #27
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    I’ve used both, with about equal effectiveness, as best I can tell. Using a slotted spoon or strainer, it does seem easier to scoop out the coarser ash particles left from shavings compared to sawdust, though.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by imashooter2 View Post
    Just like the carbon the beeswax burns into.
    I've never seen any residue left from beeswax. Sawdust? Plenty.

  9. #29
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    I bottom pour, I use sawdust because I have a collection bin under the chop saw and I'm 99% pine. My opinion chips are okay but sawdust is a bit better. Everyone has thoughts but my method is to flux occasionally with a dab of wax and a dash of dust. I stir in and leave the dross on the top of the pot to prevent oxidizing. After it seems there is excessive amount of dross I will skim and start again.
    Sometimes it takes a second box of boolits to clear my head.
    Feed back thread http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...?261449-jeepyj

  10. #30
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    None of this matters, it’s 9mm vs 45acp, whipped cream vs merengue, how many angels can dance on the head of a pin kinda stuff.

    FWIW, for the smelting pot I used thin shavings from hand planing.

  11. #31
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    I use mostly mahogany dust from my sander bag. A small amount goes a long way. Also sawdust from table saw. Any wood that isn't treated or impregnated with glue of any type works for me.

  12. #32
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    borax as a flux for lead alloys? borax is the go to flux when brazing with copper/bronze alloy. ive even used it when gas welding with steel rod, but when brazing with silver alloys I'm not sure what's in the flux at welding supply store but I dont think it is borax or boric acid based , but I may be all wrong on this. I never heard of it being used for fluxing, getting the garbage out of, a molten pot of wheel weights. saw dust/wood chips just seem to work really well.

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by PopcornSutton View Post
    I've never seen any residue left from beeswax. Sawdust? Plenty.
    And yet that is what’s left when beeswax burns. You just use a lot less wax so there is a lot less carbon.
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  14. #34
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    I use what I’ve got at the time of need. I picked up a 5 gallon bucket while visiting a university maint wood working shop, from their dust collection system. Mixed up with everything imagine-able. Works great, also have used pine shavings that we use in the horse stalls. A little slower to char and light off, but with a little help with a bar b q lighter she burned just fine.

    Now fluxing the bottom pour pot to cast boolits, I just use bee wax only, and light it for smoke problems.
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  15. #35
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    I use Pencil Sharpener Shavings ... They are given away FREE of charge just for the asking .
    Bring a zip lock bag , I've never been charged for them .
    Pencils are made of Cedar and smell nice .
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmbif View Post
    borax as a flux for lead alloys? borax is the go to flux when brazing with copper/bronze alloy. ive even used it when gas welding with steel rod, but when brazing with silver alloys I'm not sure what's in the flux at welding supply store but I dont think it is borax or boric acid based , but I may be all wrong on this. I never heard of it being used for fluxing, getting the garbage out of, a molten pot of wheel weights. saw dust/wood chips just seem to work really well.
    When melting and casting brass (and some other copper/zinc alloys), most always use borax or a plain old broken coke bottle! The molten glass (yes, it melts at 1400-1600°F) forms a protective layer on the melt surface and prevents the Zn from burning off. (Zn boils off at 1,664°F and Cu melts at 1,981°F). Borax melts at a much lower temp than glass, but broken glass bottles are everywhere and free.

    There is no carbon content to borax (B4O7Na2.10H2O), and carbon is what we are looking for in our relative cool melts compared to copper and brass! Therefore, we use carbon-based items, such as wood, to do the job of fluxing to clean the melt. NEVER plywood or treated wood dust!!!!!

    And yes, there is an ever so small amount of carbon residue left from beeswax, although it is negligible. saw dust leaves behind much greater volumes of burnt "stuff" that can become inclusions in your castings..........if you are not careful.

    Bottom line is...............use what works best for you over the years. I do!

    banger

  17. #37
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    I use pine shavings and sawdust , pencil sharpener shavings that’s a great idea 👍!
    Keep your powder dry and watch your six !!

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Txcowboy52 View Post
    I use pine shavings and sawdust , pencil sharpener shavings that’s a great idea 👍!
    Thanks !
    Not much in this world that you can still get for free ... but pencil sharpener shavings are one!
    I use the shavings along with a little beeswax in my casting pot ... gives a perfect fluxing job.
    Gary
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  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by imashooter2 View Post
    And yet that is what’s left when beeswax burns. You just use a lot less wax so there is a lot less carbon.
    Everything that burns leaves residue. No dispute. But tell me if beeswax leaves less residue than wood chips or saw dust? You know the difference.

  20. #40
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    We are in violent agreement.

    You are welcome to keep using beeswax. It is an effective reductant. I prefer wood chips, and I will carry on as well.
    ”We know they are lying, they know they are lying, they know we know they are lying, we know they know we know they are lying, yet they are still lying.” –Aleksandr Isayevich Solzhenitsyn

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check