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Thread: Linotype score… or maybe not

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
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    Linotype score… or maybe not

    Bought s5 gallon bucket of what I was told was Linotype fire $1.50@lb (and a 5 gallon bucket of mixed sizes of lead shot for the same price). I am going back to get the other bucket tomorrow.

    But being the newbie that I am and not knowing anything about this type of stuff, does it look like it’s all Linotype or is sobering riser mixed in with it. A lot of varying lingers and thicknesses.

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  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    If it has letters on the edge of a strip, it is linotype. If it is plain strips without letters is can be spacers and may be about anything. Hardness testing can be helpful there. Since the strips of Lino are now wet, melt from a cold start so the water will evaporate. Plan to have residual moisture in those tubes in the spacers "forever" and avoid a steam explosion. You might consider sorting the two types of strips but leave them in the original form for easy ID. Melt a small batch of the strips and cast some bullets and do the same with the lino. If the strips are not lino, the resulting castings will be softer and heavier than the lino. Good price on the lino.

    If the lead shot is old and oxide coated or has been wet, you may find it does snap, crackle and pot as you heat it up to melt. There are stickies on processing shot into ingots. Good luck and be safe.

  3. #3
    Boolit Bub
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    Thank you! Very helpful!

    And yes the shot looks like it should have an “I” in it instead of an “o”.

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    Also, I was lucky from what I call an explosion, there is still shiny lead splatters from the incident. Appreciate your safety concern for me!

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    The lines of type are linotype but the smooth sided spacers are soft lead. You will be able to easily bend them. Linotype will not bend, it will break. There are some spacers made on a linotype machine but they have the same block sided appearance on the side of the spacer as the print ones do, they are not smooth sided. Depending on how much type compared to how much spacer you have will determine whether it is a good deal or a fair deal. It is not a bad deal not matter waht at 1.50lb. Lead nowadays is getting expensive for known alloys and pure.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Nice Score!
    Reclaimed shot is one of the hardest things that I have melted. The graphite and oxidation insulate it. I had to keep mashing the pellets against the side of the pot to break the shell that had formed. I still had more lead in my dross than normal. I had unmelted shot on top and I kept waiting for it to melt. I finally dropped a thermometer in the pot and had 1000º on bottom.

  6. #6
    Boolit Bub
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    Thanks and I’m wondering if running the shoot through a tumbler fort might help? I’ll have to check out that sticky! I have both vibrating and SS media wet tumblers

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    I suggest not using a vibrator tumbler because the weight will likely destroy the unit. The lead oxide will be very hazardous for both people and pests. Dry it, melt it, flux with small amounts (pea sized) until you find out how big your pot is. Expect the wax to ignite in the pot so keep the operation outside. Yes, there is a sticky for that. It is fun as long as you follow the precautions and keep kids and pets away.

  8. #8
    Boolit Bub
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    Thank you, I didn’t think about the dust. I will plan on melting it outdoors fluxing the pot (something I’ve never done when melting WWs). The pot I am using is an old Dutch oven.

    I still wonder about wet tumbling with SS media and if it would be a safe and effective way to end up with easier and safer way than melting with all the oxidation?

  9. #9
    Boolit Bub
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    It’s all the same
    85% Lead
    11% Antimony
    2% Tin
    I was shocked because the thin pieces folds almost like a $2 bill (actual more like the farm bailing wire)

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    The smooth sided spacers are soft lead, not linotype. I worked in the letterpress industry for many years and I ran a linotype machine. I also set type by hand so I am well aware of what is what with the lead. That was your original question as to what you got and I stick by my answer. With all that said I strongly suggest that even if you believe that is linotype you still melt it separately and then have it tested to be sure. If it proves to be lino I will admit I am wrong. If it tests as soft lead then you have not diluted your lnotype and you can say thanks or you can say nothing. Either way you get good lead in two batches.

  11. #11
    Boolit Bub
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    Great point and I will make separate batches. The x-Ray tool that was used to test it was pretty high tech so I just assumed the values it put out are correct. Either way I agree with you in doing separate batches. Thank you

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Well, you did not mention testing it but I can tell you that the 18 point spacer in the first pic that is bent in a U would not do that if it were Linotype and also it would not have the holes in it if it were linotype. The machine is not capable of doing that. And the linotype machine is not capable of producing the smooth sides like those on the spacers. The spacers come in large wood crates and are bought from the the print supplier for the most part where the lead for the linotype machine was bought from the foundry. The spacers had to be perfect in size and they were delivered to us in 4 foot long pieces. I will not bore you any more with this stuff, I know there are a couple more printers on here, one is still running a business doing letterpress printing I believe so he would be in a better position to comment than I, I have been out of it for 25 years.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master

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    Here's a link to the testing I had done.
    https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...ers&highlight=

  14. #14
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rickf1985 View Post
    Well, you did not mention testing it but I can tell you that the 18 point spacer in the first pic that is bent in a U would not do that if it were Linotype and also it would not have the holes in it if it were linotype. The machine is not capable of doing that. And the linotype machine is not capable of producing the smooth sides like those on the spacers. The spacers come in large wood crates and are bought from the the print supplier for the most part where the lead for the linotype machine was bought from the foundry. The spacers had to be perfect in size and they were delivered to us in 4 foot long pieces. I will not bore you any more with this stuff, I know there are a couple more printers on here, one is still running a business doing letterpress printing I believe so he would be in a better position to comment than I, I have been out of it for 25 years.
    Thank you for all your information, it is not boring me. I am very new and eager to learn how to safely cast a good quality bullet and was simply sharing the facts and information I have.

  15. #15
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by boatswainsmate View Post
    Here's a link to the testing I had done.
    https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...ers&highlight=
    Thanks for sharing this link! That’s awesome info and I appreciate it… I am not sure what the exact numbers was for each sample I sent him. When he called, he said that it would print out all the details for each sample but at the time I didn’t care once he said that it was all Linotype and gave me the overall average numbers that I posted above, I just assumed that it didn’t matter and I could melt it all together. But thanks to Rick1985 who wisely suggested that I do it in separate batches.

    All I know is that it was sold to me as Linotype, a good friend said it didn’t look right to him and that it wasn’t all Linotype thinking I got screwed to having it tested and thinking ok maybe I did get Linotype to currently thinking that I don’t even care at this point. Melt it down in batches and see how hard the ingots come out.

    The really thin pieces bend over like it is very soft material.

    Thanks Sharon for this link!

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rickf1985 View Post
    Well, you did not mention testing it but I can tell you that the 18 point spacer in the first pic that is bent in a U would not do that if it were Linotype and also it would not have the holes in it if it were linotype. The machine is not capable of doing that. And the linotype machine is not capable of producing the smooth sides like those on the spacers. The spacers come in large wood crates and are bought from the the print supplier for the most part where the lead for the linotype machine was bought from the foundry. The spacers had to be perfect in size and they were delivered to us in 4 foot long pieces. I will not bore you any more with this stuff, I know there are a couple more printers on here, one is still running a business doing letterpress printing I believe so he would be in a better position to comment than I, I have been out of it for 25 years.
    This is not boring. Please feel free to share your knowledge anytime you feel like it.

  17. #17
    Boolit Bub
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    Thank you for the offer but I think I have plenty for the time being. This was two 5 gallon buckets with just over 200 lbs of Linotype and one bucket of mostly mixed sizes of shot as well a some clamp on style lead battery cable ends (without the bolts) which was right at 90 lbs. the scrap yard here sold it to me all for the same price $1.50. I also am in the middle of a deal with a guy who might a news paper building which has a bunch of Linotype in the basement. I am looking at it tomorrow and he has no idea how much there was. I’ll probably have it X-rayed like I did the last Linotype to know what I have for mixing purposes. I’m located in the Midwest. Thanks again I’m really learning a lot!

    I’m located in the Midwest

    EDIT: Looks like the guy from California must have deleted his post. Thanks anyhow if your still reading!
    Last edited by Glwenzl; 01-20-2022 at 12:50 PM.

  18. #18
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    Don't write off the spacers. Melt them separate. Some are soft since they don't touch the paper they don't get pounded so soft lead is fine. Others are harder than Linotype in order to make them last a long time.

    I had a bunch of spacers that came in at 6 Sn 18 Sb. Half again richer alloy than lino. That much tin keeps them flexible even if hard lead. I would keep them separate and melt them down then test the resulting ingots. Local scrap yard XRF gun or member BNE if you can follow his directions on sending him a sample.
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.

    Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.

    Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat

  19. #19
    Boolit Bub
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    Thanks and that is exactly what I’m doing. I have four separate containers from the first bucket and so far there from the second (the second is mostly Linotype with lettering in it). I planned on stamping the separate batches with the hardness number. Although I have access to a material testing X-ray gun, I’m planning on getting my own harness tested, I haven’t ordered the LBT Hardness Tester test but plan to do soon.

    Also thought about finding out what had to most tin in it to mix with my WWs to help the mold fill out. But I think I may be on to what I was doing wrong and that may not be required. Lots to learn!

  20. #20
    Boolit Bub
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    Found more material

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check