Cold Blue - Best?

[bedbugbilly]

I'm getting ready to install a gated Kirst Konverter cylinder on two pistols - Uberti 1858 5" Remington Army and a Uberti 1851 5" Colt Navv. This means that I have to cut out the loading ports in the frames for the gates so cartridges can slide in and spent casings out - so will have some raw metal when done where I cut it out.

I haven't used "cold blueing" in probably 55 years so not really sure if there is one any better than the other for re-blueing the modified loading ports to match the Uberti deep dark blue. Certainly not going to need anything bur a small bottle of it.

Anyone have a suggestion for a good brand they've used that will give a deep blue that would be close to what Ubertis look like from the factory?

Thanks!

Jim

[LAGS]

Why not Rust Blue the cylinder.
It holds up better than Cold Blue.
And you can Rust Blue on your kitchen stove with such a small part.

[Buzz Krumhunger]

Think he wants to blue a bare steel area ground into the frame.

My favorite cold blue is Brownells Oxpho Blue. I don’t know if it will match the factory blue job on your Uberti, though.

[Mytmousemalibu]

Cold method I like and had best results with is 2 steps. First use Mark Lee express brown #2, as directed on the bottle. Clean/card after browning, thorough degrease and Brownells Oxpho Blue over top of the brown. Deeper color than just cold blue and it holds up much better. Thats about the best you can do with a cold method. Can't beat rust bluing or hot caustic salt bluing but for a little recoil shield area the method above works and you can always redo it.

[Winger Ed.]

I've had good luck with Brownell's oxpho blue, but the piece needs to rather warm, and apply it several times.
They say it works through oil, but I never could bring myself to doing it that way.

[Noah Zark]

I'll second or third the Brownells Oxpho Blue. Do warm the part, and apply coats to build depth of color. Instructions say to buff with steel wool, but I use brown paper towels and the color is more uniform.

If you happen to blue steel that won't take the blueing evenly, apply the Oxpho using DEGREASED 0000 steel wool. The free iron in the steel wool will help the chemical reaction of the selenic acid in the blueing.

Noah

[GregLaROCHE]

The top brands all have worked well for me. The important think to know is that the colors you end up with aren’t the same. You need to do some testing, if you want a good match, but that may not be important, if you are just looking for protection.

[Hick]

I use Birchwood Perma Blue. It works fast and you can stop it darkening by washing with plain water. If you let it sit it can get very dark.

[stubshaft]

I prefer oxpho blue, Birchwood Casey' cold blue doesn't seem to last as long.

[cwtebay]

+1 for the method of mytmousemslibou.
You're likely not going to match the conversion kit blueing to your revolver anyway unless you strip both down to the white - may as well go for durability.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[ArizonaBeagle]

I too have had good success with Brownell's Oxpho Blue. As stated above
warm the piece and do repeated coats 'til you achieve the color you desire.

AZB

[bedbugbilly]

Thanks all - greatly appreciate the info. I googled a couple of videos on the Brownells Oxpho and looks easy enough to get the results I'm looking for. I ordered a small container of the paste which should work well for what small area I'll need to do.

Thanks to all!

Jim