Inline FabricationSnyders JerkyLoad DataReloading Everything
MidSouth Shooters SupplyWidenersRepackboxLee Precision
RotoMetals2 Titan Reloading
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 24 of 24

Thread: Need some help here

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Communist New Jersey
    Posts
    907
    That is good to hear, I was not sure on that. I was pretty sure it would not "Flux" out but not sure on the separation and then be pulled out with the flux. Do you have any info on whether the same is true if using real flux like the stuff you get from Frankford?
    https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Ars.../dp/B0063GSOK8

    I have heard this will remove everything but the base metals under the right conditions. I use it once when doing me WW's but my temps never go above 750. After that initial flux with the Franford stuff I just use wax. Actually I just started trying wax before pulling out the clips and that has made a world of difference in how much easier it is to get the clips out without all the dross attached to them. If you have not tried it I suggest you at least try it once or twice.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    4,383
    Very hot lead will have color. Depending how hot it can be gold, red, blue, or black. Since the melt temp of pure Pb is 629, your ladle is cooling quickly in your windy, 25degF weather. Keep the "dross" you've removed and remelt.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master BNE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    SC
    Posts
    1,210
    I have not performed any direct test with the flux. The pot I talked about at work had a variety of professional fluxes used in it over the years. And it showed no signs of reduced Tin in the alloy.

    BNE
    I'm a Happy Clinger.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
    JSnover's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sicklerville NJ
    Posts
    4,381
    Quote Originally Posted by BNE View Post
    Sorry - I have to step in and correct this old wives tale. That theory is simply not true. I have done several tests over the years with very hot pots (~900F) and scraping the dross off the top. I kept samples from each scraping. Then I measured the alloy that was scraped off plus the final alloy.

    THE ALLOY MIX DID NOT CHANGE!

    I have done similar tests with a hot solder dip pot at work. It was left on for several years. (YES, YEARS) I tested that pot with the XrF that we have at work and I had samples sent out for a different style test method. The Tin content was NOT depleted at all.

    Yes, the oxide layer on top of your pot contains Tin, BUT that is an incredibly thin layer. You are not going to "flux it out" with sawdust or wax. Nor will you "Over heat it out" or scrape it out.

    BNE
    Thanks!
    For years I've been telling myself the dross was probably high in tin and antimony, and re-melting it to recover 'the good stuff.' Some Old Guy told me that, back when I was Some Young Guy.
    Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check