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Thread: Mauser cocking piece question

  1. #21
    Boolit Master

    FLINTNFIRE's Avatar
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    http://www.hoosiergunworks.com/catalog/mausers.html


    Shows as in stock , and reference pages with photos .

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy
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    Here is the difference I was talking about. It seems Chrome is not allowing the upload function to work but Edge will.

    You may also have spring issues in that not all pins have the same compression distance. If you can't assemble all the components because the spring won't cooperate, you have to file the pin flats for more relief or nip a coil off the spring. The latter is not recommended. If you do, grind the cut end flat so it doesn't cock askew.

    BTW, I ran my trapline for said pin and I'm flabbergasted at what they go for these days IF you can even find one. I haven't needed one for years.

    As a completely crazy idea (that I've actually done, sorta) is buy a complete Swede bolt for about what I see pins going for on fleabay and grind off the guide rib. One problem with that is you lose a bit of cartridge extraction power because of the longer bolt. On the upside, the pin fall is shortened. Of course, the whole thing will need to be requalified!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Two.JPG  
    Last edited by copperlake; 01-03-2022 at 05:05 PM.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master brstevns's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FLINTNFIRE View Post
    http://www.hoosiergunworks.com/catalog/mausers.html


    Shows as in stock , and reference pages with photos .
    Shows not in stock for 93/95 Mauser

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy
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    I currently have a Spainish 1893 action in my shop.
    I pulled the bolt out and tore down the firing pin cocking piece to compare to a Swedish cocking piece.

    The Swedish cocking piece would go on the 93 firing pin, and the dry fire stop on the Swedish cocking piece was in the correct location.

    The problem that arose is the cocking cam on the two cocking pieces are not the same, the Swedish is shallower which then stops the firing pin from protruding the correct amount.

    So back to the OP question, can a Swedish cocking piece be put onto a 1893.

    Yes BUT the cocking cam on the Swedish part will have to be recut slightly to allow the firing pin to protrude the correct amount.

    JW

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by James Wisner View Post
    I currently have a Spainish 1893 action in my shop.
    I pulled the bolt out and tore down the firing pin cocking piece to compare to a Swedish cocking piece.

    The Swedish cocking piece would go on the 93 firing pin, and the dry fire stop on the Swedish cocking piece was in the correct location.

    The problem that arose is the cocking cam on the two cocking pieces are not the same, the Swedish is shallower which then stops the firing pin from protruding the correct amount.

    So back to the OP question, can a Swedish cocking piece be put onto a 1893.

    Yes BUT the cocking cam on the Swedish part will have to be recut slightly to allow the firing pin to protrude the correct amount.

    JW
    James, after reading your post I went out to the shop and fumbled around. You are absolutely correct - the pin protrusion is too shallow with that assembly. Excellent read. I should have understood that with the pic a showed. A 94/96 pin could be made to work with cutting down or the 93 pin extended but both cases seem hardly worth the effort. Thank you, you've added to my amateur smithing knowledge.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check