"I tumbled it (brass) with the primers still in." Chemicals in tne tumbling media damaged the primers.
Slow firing pin velocity is anotner common cause. More so in cold weather.
"I tumbled it (brass) with the primers still in." Chemicals in tne tumbling media damaged the primers.
Slow firing pin velocity is anotner common cause. More so in cold weather.
Primers need to be seated to the bottom of the pocket or else the firing pin will seat them all the way but not ignite them. A too light of a strike. But then the second firing pin strike ignites them. As to the worn old lee autoprimes, you can build up the pin that the lever rides on with a piece of round brass made from a case. Give you more height on the ram.
I had the same problem when I switched to Ruske (Tula) primers.
I was reloading on a progressive with no adjustment for primer seating depth, so I put a shim under where the priming pin hit the press frame.
Affectively, setting the primer seater on the "crush" setting, and put a hand priming tool in my range bag.
When I got a dud, I put on a heavy glove, put my hand around a corner, and reseated the dud primer.
Always 100% sucess.
A primer seated into a dirty primer pocket can give a false feeling that it has seated but only has made contact with the crud in the pocket.
Upon firing, that primer is only pushed thru that crud and actually seated, and a second strike usually sets it off.
I have since switched to wet/pin tumbling of cases with the primer removed and that changed the game for primer seating.
jmo,
.
Last edited by Kenstone; 01-04-2022 at 02:23 PM.
Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up in the priming station and continue loading.
Me too. I don't need to clean,swage, "reform" any primer pockets and it keeps my press a little cleaner. Over a period of several years I tried three different hand primer makes. None worked for me. Perhaps my hands are different, but I would have to reset the tool in my hand after every squeeze. With a older Lee, a new Hornady, a new Lee, a Lyman (?) and one of unknown mfg. They just didn't fit my hands well enough to get consistent seating. Usually went back to a ram prime or the stock priming on my single stage presses (I even used a Lee Loader, priming base, with an arbor press, slow but positive). The priming system on my Co-Ax is OK, but the shell holder is difficult.
Last edited by mdi; 01-05-2022 at 01:46 PM.
My Anchor is holding fast!
clean primer pockets and seat below case head.
"I wonder if the primers are short."
I think they were Tula, bought during the Obama shortage, long gone now.
They could have been short like Federals tend to be.
Don't know,
good wonder though.
Last edited by Kenstone; 01-04-2022 at 02:09 PM.
Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up in the priming station and continue loading.
And clean the striker and firing pin ways
Also clean the extractor and the hole it sits in.
Yes, I know you have already done that, what
lube did you use during reassembly?
Cold outside? Tried warming the gun with the car heater vent?
Mike
NRA Benefactor 2004 USAF RET 1971-95
I put a straight edge on every one. None proud. All could see daylight between the primer and the straight edge.
Firing pin indentation on the duds looked solid. Not indicative of a light primer strike. I pulled every dud. None were missing the anvil. The primer compound looked new and present as well. Is there anything you can discern visually from inspecting the dud primer compound?
Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up in the priming station and continue loading.
Thanks for the info,
BINGO
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...=1#post5328543
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...=1#post5328286
You might want to measure the cup length of a used primer and compare it to another brand of primer.
I'm thinking you will find the Tula to be shorter.
Or look up the cup length here:
https://saami.org/
.
Last edited by Kenstone; 01-04-2022 at 02:24 PM.
Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up in the priming station and continue loading.
The Bird of Time has but a little way
To fly-and Lo! the bird is on the wing
So I load on a Lee 4 hole turrets press. Every primer is seated by hand for me too. On my last 50 I loaded with extreme attention to seat depth. To seat the primers I grabbed the back of the press and put my body into pushing the ram arm. Then I whacked the ram with moderate force 6 additional times before letting the press rotate to the next die. I did this to all 50 and still had 3 duds. My point was to way overdo it. If I had any failures there's nothing more I can do to get the primers as deeply seated as I'll ever be able to get with my setup.
That being said, when I load my Remington SRPs instead, same press dies brass and all they go in nice and deep without manhandling it at all (and no failure to fire). You can visually see the Remington's seated deeply with no fuss no muss. And the Remingtons are physically a little taller to boot! I don't get it.
Good info
More on Tula primers
Back when Tula primers were all you could find/buy, lots of people had problems with them on all types of equipment.
My fix was to add a shim where the priming pin contacted the frame of my piggyback press, and in fact, that shim is still on my press.
I recall those using the LNL AP got no fix by adding that shim and further traced the primer's not fully seating to the spring around the primer pin becoming coil bound before completely seating those Tula primers.
With that in mind, I've looked at the priming arm on the Lee Turet and thought the spring under the primer cup could also be coil binding and giving you that feel of a primer fully seating.
I suggest you look at that spring, if you can see it, when seating a primer and see if it is coil binding/limiting the travel of the primer pin.
If it is coil binding, look for a way to remove that spring and shorten it by 1or 2 coils.
If you cannot shorten the spring, you could shorten the primer cup instead, either would allow the pin further travel upward towards the primer.
Sorry for the ramble, just a wag on my part,
.
Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up in the priming station and continue loading.
7Acres primers:
Brand:
TulAmmo KVB-9E Small Pistol Primers, Lead Free non-corrosive
Manufacture Date: Jan 2012
>>> 10 year old LEAD FREE primers - they're runnin' out of shelf life! <<<
GONRA hopes ya'll can save some primed cases or loaded rounds
(more the better!) for INTERESTNG shelf life studies!!!
Shoot some more in 5 years, 10 years, etc.....
We're all spoiled by the modern lead styphnate / tetrazene primers.
RWS Sinoxid patent(s).
Stored reasonably well, they'll last longer than most of us will live....
>>> Lead Free primers are NOT for SHTF storage.... <<<
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |