RepackboxInline FabricationMidSouth Shooters SupplyRotoMetals2
Lee PrecisionWidenersSnyders JerkyLoad Data
Titan Reloading Reloading Everything
Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 41 to 47 of 47

Thread: Metal Detectors

  1. #41
    Boolit Master
    contender1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Lake Lure NC
    Posts
    2,445
    I thought of another tip to help detectorists.

    What to do with common coins you intend to sell.

    Most often,, the coins you dig will be discolored & dirty. Soap & water will help,, but we handloaders also have something that can help. A brass cleaner. Separate the coins into 2 different piles, (or 3 if you wish.) Pennies in one pile,, dimes & quarters in another, and nickles in a 3rd. Nickles can go into dimes & quarters,, but there is sometimes a little color difference.
    Tumble clean the coins. I've used aquarium gravel with soap & water,, walnut shell, & most recently,, the wet tumble with SS pins & lemishine. The pennies need cleaning separately from the others,, or you will get a transfer of copper coloring to the other coins.
    By cleaning them,, the banks don't mind accepting them.
    The only issue I've found is the zinc based pennies will corrode if in the ground for a longer period,, and often disintegrate partially. I place these pennies in a separate pile,, and when I get 50 of them, a bank will take them in for destruction by the guvment.

  2. #42
    Moderator Emeritus

    MaryB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    SW Minnesota
    Posts
    10,318
    Quote Originally Posted by contender1 View Post
    Kudos on the Indianhead sparky45! Great find. Those jewels aren't easily detected in general.

    The Minelab line of detectors are top notch machines. While pricey when compared to others,, they make up for it in performance. AND if learned & used properly, they will reward the owners with some nice goodies. I often tell folks to learn on a different machine,, before investing in a Minelab,, because they can be a bit overwhelming as to their features. I teach; "Learn the basics on a mid-range machine,, then when you are ready to truly step into advanced detecting,, a Minelab is a brand to consider."
    And as noted,, you've used it for 5 months,, and are still learning how to operate it,, says a lot.

    Many folks may feel $1500 (give or take) for a Detector is a lot. But,, finding valuable jewels such as rare coins,,, gold & silver, (coins & jewelry,) relics etc can pay for a machine.
    As I've mentioned,, I've made each machine "pay me back" my investment by using it & finding stuff.

    Another trick I like to share.

    If the cost of a machine is a concern, try this.
    Study a lot about detectors, and determine a spending range. Let's say $400. Then,, I always say; "Add $100 to that figure." Now,, buy a machine in the $500 range. Study the manual a few times before even assembly. Then go hunting & learn the machine. Every time you find any common coins etc,, or stuff you can sell,, place that money in a jar. After a bit,, clean the coins,, and exchange them for bills. After a while you will see the investment return,, as long as you truly apply yourself & go hunting in places you can find stuff. Soon the pennies turn into dollars. then the dollars turn into 20's,, and then the 20's turn into 100's.
    Don't cheat & remove any money from the jar until the machine is paid for.
    Also, keep a tab of the batteries if you use alkalines. Soon,, that jar will exceed your investment. Keep tabs on accessories too. (Diggers, pouch, pinpointer if used, different headphones, knee pads, etc.) again,, you will see your investments return.
    Once you reach a point of surpassing your investment,, you can decide to (a) continue to save the money for a better machine,, (b) return your investment to your pocket, (c) save the money towards other items in another hobby,, such as shooting, (d) take the wife out for dinner occasionally as a way of saying thank you for putting up with me & my hobby.

    I'm currently placing my common change & such in a jar. I have my eye on another machine myself.
    Be careful cleaning coins, you can ruin their value by scrubbing!!! Watch a video on how to do it gently. NEVER wipe or scrub a coin!

  3. #43
    Moderator Emeritus

    MaryB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    SW Minnesota
    Posts
    10,318
    Quote Originally Posted by contender1 View Post
    I thought of another tip to help detectorists.

    What to do with common coins you intend to sell.

    Most often,, the coins you dig will be discolored & dirty. Soap & water will help,, but we handloaders also have something that can help. A brass cleaner. Separate the coins into 2 different piles, (or 3 if you wish.) Pennies in one pile,, dimes & quarters in another, and nickles in a 3rd. Nickles can go into dimes & quarters,, but there is sometimes a little color difference.
    Tumble clean the coins. I've used aquarium gravel with soap & water,, walnut shell, & most recently,, the wet tumble with SS pins & lemishine. The pennies need cleaning separately from the others,, or you will get a transfer of copper coloring to the other coins.
    By cleaning them,, the banks don't mind accepting them.
    The only issue I've found is the zinc based pennies will corrode if in the ground for a longer period,, and often disintegrate partially. I place these pennies in a separate pile,, and when I get 50 of them, a bank will take them in for destruction by the guvment.
    You just turned your cons into scrap metal! Old coins should NEVER be roughly cleaned!!!!! Scrubbing causes scratches that coin dealers and collectors know are signs of mishandling and it greatly lowers the collector price of that coin. Look your coins up and if one could be very valuable let an expert restore it! The $50 they may charge is worth it on a $1,000+++ coin!

    I do a soak in acetone to remove oils and some dirt, then a soak on distilled water, then blot dry(do not wipe!) on clean cotton towels. This will remove most of the dirt and crud. Can use a dish soap solution to soak but TEST IT first on the edge of a coin to make sure it doesn't discolor it!

    Wiping or scrubbing a coin causes fine scratches and on a silver coin it may go from a $50+++ coin to whatever silver spot price is is value. Same for gold(which can be really soft in some coins!). Copper needs special care to not discolor it.

  4. #44
    Boolit Master
    contender1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Lake Lure NC
    Posts
    2,445
    My apologies for NOT specify that I was talking ONLY about modern coins. NOT,, and I will re-enforce the 2 posts above,, NOT any coins that are older & possibly valuable as collectables.
    I did say "common coins"

    "What to do with common coins you intend to sell. "

    MY MISTAKE for not making this bold enough for everyone.

    To expound upon this;

    COMMON COINS OF MODERN TYPES THAT HAVE NO POTENTIAL VALUE OTHER THAN FACE VALUE.

    Good enough MaryB?

  5. #45
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Close to da Creaux,Hang'n out in Swamp's and Bayou's
    Posts
    800
    Quote Originally Posted by sparky45 View Post
    I added a MineLab Equinox 800 to my Detector collection and have been renewed as to the amazing thrill of finding long lost coins. I've had the Nox 800 for about 5 months and STILL don't understand all the different modes of operation, but I'm learning. Yesterday I went to get some BBQ for lunch and had about 30 minuted before it would be ready for pickup and stopped at a local Park to get in a few "swings". I have been hunting this same section of the Park (approx 80 x 50') every time I go to the Park. Slowly removing all the trash targets and got a signal that registered ~6" down and at a 20 level on the meter and not a stable signal. Dug it anyway and to my surprise flipped out a 1906 Indian Head cent.
    I love this hobby.
    Sweet, Prices I'm seeing are from 7 bucks up to 49K Not to bad? One could almost buy a 2 year old truck with 49K ?

  6. #46
    Boolit Master

    sparky45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    SE, KS
    Posts
    2,405
    What's incredible is in the 5 months I've had the Nox 800 I've dug 11 Indian Head Pennies from that same location, even got 2 in one hole. Oldest a 1883 which makes it close to the cities date of incorporation (1871). I truly believe the old saying "you can never dig it all".

  7. #47
    Moderator Emeritus

    MaryB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    SW Minnesota
    Posts
    10,318
    Quote Originally Posted by contender1 View Post
    My apologies for NOT specify that I was talking ONLY about modern coins. NOT,, and I will re-enforce the 2 posts above,, NOT any coins that are older & possibly valuable as collectables.
    I did say "common coins"

    "What to do with common coins you intend to sell. "

    MY MISTAKE for not making this bold enough for everyone.

    To expound upon this;

    COMMON COINS OF MODERN TYPES THAT HAVE NO POTENTIAL VALUE OTHER THAN FACE VALUE.

    Good enough MaryB?
    Even modern coins can be worth more than face value, there are rare years/mint marks and error coins so check them all carefully! I just sold an error penny for $20! a 2001!

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check