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Thread: Another Mold Prep Question

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold Prairie Traveler's Avatar
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    Another Mold Prep Question

    Howdy Ya'll, from the Tulsa, OK area:
    I've been reloading since the early '70s, but am just now beginning to start casting. Over the years I have been given several Lyman and Lee molds, and handles. I have a Lee production pot that I'm still trying to get setup properly. My reloading is in an unheated garage, with good ventilation, and an exhaust fan near the pot.
    I just read about a Mould Prep solution, that Buffalo Arms sells, to lube sprue plates and mold pins. Has anyone tried this? I've also been following the thread about using Kroil on the blocks.
    I'm always learning something on the gun forums!
    "[I]Pick up a rifle and you change instantly from a Subject to a Citizen." (Col. Jeff Cooper, USMC)

    A thoughtful mind, when it sees a Nation's flag, sees not the flag only, but the Nation itself; and whatever may be its symbols, its insignia, he reads chiefly in the flag the Government, the principles, the truths, the history which belongs to the Nation that sets it forth.
    Henry Ward Beecher

    "Poor planning, on your part, does not constitute an emergency, on my part..."

  2. #2
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    georgerkahn's Avatar
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    Welcome, and you ask good questions! However, my thoughts (through years of, well, not always "success" ) generally focus on the old, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!" line of thinking. I have spent lots of $$$ at Buffalo Arms -- even buying their custom moulds -- and could say nothing but good things about them!
    However -- to your query re Mould prep and/or Kroil: I assume your Lee moulds are aluminum; the Lyman are cast. If it were me, I'd flux and reflux my alloy in the Lee production pot, and... cast away. With either type of mould, EXPECT not-perfect for the first ??? drops... Generally a rule of thumb I've employed is if the bullets are wrinkled, the moulds are not hot enough; if the bullets are frosted -- perhaps a bit too warm.
    I've ever so rarely required any sprue plate lub. BUT, if required, one of the little (2.6 ounce) bottles of 2-cycle oil for air (e.g. chain saws, weed whackers, etc.) equipment is all that's required. The trick -- I use a tooth-pick to apply a scant drop just at the hinge screw. One does not want any to migrate into the mould.
    Moving to the moulds -- clean, and reclean them well. There are many post re this -- I use a lot of Dawn detergent in water using a fingernail brush to get in all the mould grooves.
    In my experiences, clean (e.g. oil and any other contaminant-free) moulds drop bullets without any added help. In a worse-case situation -- e.g., the bullet not dropping how many times I whack the hinge screw, I've "smoked" the mould cavities using a Bic lighter's flame.
    Anyhoos -- my suggested bottom line: It sound like you now have all you need to become a great caster!
    geo

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy AlHunt's Avatar
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    georgerkahn has nailed it. Don't overthink it or over complicate it. You'll cause yourself heartache and misery and end up with a 10 page thread of 100 voodoo ways to fix your not broken molds.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
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    I keep a dropper bottle of 2 cycle engine oil near the bench. 1 drop right at the edge of the washer - keep the mold under the exhaust fan for a moment and I’m good to go.

  5. #5
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    georgerkahn's Avatar
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    ...an added note on 2-cycle oil. To wit, it comes in two major types: that for air-cooled and that for water cooled. While the latter is used in outboard motors and similar -- generally labeled TC-W2, TC-W3, or similar -- it is not the better choice as a sprue plate lube.
    For mould sprue use, I'd suggest that -- either petrol-based or synthetic -- air equipment (TC) 2-cycle oil be used. This is designed for temperatures higher than your mould will, under normal casting conditions, get, and will dandily provide the lubrication you desire..
    On the other hand, the 2-cycle oil for outboard motors and similar -- these power plants have a constant supply of fresh water circulating to keep engine components cool -- and might even gall at casting mould temps. I avoid use of any oils with the letter "W" in their description (e.g., TC-W2, or TC-W3).
    geo

  6. #6
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    After I had a mold rust and get ruined; for long term storage, I keep my iron blocks submerged in a jar of motor oil.
    Alum. blocks get hosed off with motorcycle chain oil.
    That's about as oil fouled as you can get.

    To use them again- I scrub 'em with a toothbrush while in gasoline.
    Then do a second wash/rinse in carburator cleaner.
    When they're dry, i put a little drop of chainsaw 2-stroke oil on the pivot pin & sprue plate.

    I do the same for dies too.
    I've been doing that since the 90s, and it's worked well so far.
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  7. #7
    Boolit Mold Prairie Traveler's Avatar
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    Thanks, georgerkahn, AlHunt, & Winger Ed. As I have said, I learn Much on these forums!
    "[I]Pick up a rifle and you change instantly from a Subject to a Citizen." (Col. Jeff Cooper, USMC)

    A thoughtful mind, when it sees a Nation's flag, sees not the flag only, but the Nation itself; and whatever may be its symbols, its insignia, he reads chiefly in the flag the Government, the principles, the truths, the history which belongs to the Nation that sets it forth.
    Henry Ward Beecher

    "Poor planning, on your part, does not constitute an emergency, on my part..."

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check