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Thread: Progressive reloaders

  1. #41
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I just take a shop rag or a blue paper towel and while I watch TV, just wipe the lube off. In my recliner and cleaned ammo on one side and lubed stuff on the other side.

    Sometimes I just process the brass first and clean it, before I run it thru the machine to load it.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmorris View Post
    Hitting a button and going about your business, only to come back to 100 loaded rounds does.

    WOW! I find operating the handle relaxing. Leaving the operation to anybody/anything else would mess with my nerves. The variation with Red Dot (which was +/- .1 grain) bothered me so much that I switched to SW Clean Shot which had half a tenth of a grain variation.

  3. #43
    Boolit Master AnthonyB's Avatar
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    Rockrat, thanks. My arthritic hands mean I will likely keep processing the brass before loading.
    Tony

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by AnthonyB View Post
    Totally off topic question, but sorta close:
    How do you guys loading rifle rounds on the progressive presses remove the sizing lubricant from the brass? I have been depriming/sizing/swaging separately and loading clean brass without sizing. Looking for a better way.
    Tony
    I use the homemade lanolin and alcohol spray lube posted in another thread and find no reason to remove it at all.

  5. #45
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsizemore View Post
    I find operating the handle relaxing.
    You are not alone, there are lots of single stage users by choice.

  6. #46
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    I use a 550, just couldn't automate it.

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsizemore View Post
    I use a 550, just couldn't automate it.
    I have never seen an automated 550 or heard of one. Anything can be done put it might be just as practical to sell it and add the money for a 750.
    Don Verna


  8. #48
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsizemore View Post
    I use a 550, just couldn't automate it.
    Just about anything can be automated.

    Not being a guy that finds it relaxing, I have even automated single stage presses.


  9. #49
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by avogunner View Post
    I'll be the odd man out here... yes, Dillon's are good machines (I've had a SDB for 30 years) but I don't care for the 550. I went with the Hornady LnL and have been perfectly satisfied with it. When I want to pump out a bunch of .223 or Garand food, it takes care of business without any trouble.
    Again, not against blue stuff but I my Kool-aid comes in all colors.
    I agree but I wonder how LEE is with their customer support. I have had many 550 wear items replaced over the years, and they even sent me a complete powder measure system once....all at no charge.
    Lee has made some spectacularly great items over the years at affordable prices. My original 20 lb. pot (a/k/a drip-o-matic) has served me well for 30+ years. It does drip but that turning of the spout screw is just part of the casting process.
    The other item is the Factory crimp Die. Simple and it WORKS!
    But all in all, I would still say nothing beats Dillon for quality and customer support.
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Finster101 View Post
    I use the homemade lanolin and alcohol spray lube posted in another thread and find no reason to remove it at all.
    Since the brass case needs to expand and grip the walls of the chamber to prevent it from putting too much pressure on the bolt face, I would think leaving lube on the case would not be a good idea.

  11. #51
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AnthonyB View Post
    Totally off topic question, but sorta close:
    How do you guys loading rifle rounds on the progressive presses remove the sizing lubricant from the brass? I have been depriming/sizing/swaging separately and loading clean brass without sizing. Looking for a better way.
    Tony
    Yup...the lanolin and alcohol mix is the best.
    Use it sparingly and you really don't have to wipe it down. But if you are OCD, you certainly can.
    If I load 1000 rounds for an afternoon of full auto fun. I certainly will forego the wiping down of the loaded cases.
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetinteriorguy View Post
    Since the brass case needs to expand and grip the walls of the chamber to prevent it from putting too much pressure on the bolt face, I would think leaving lube on the case would not be a good idea.

    Well, after a few thousand rounds I have never had an issue.

  13. #53
    Boolit Buddy 414gates's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetinteriorguy View Post
    Since the brass case needs to expand and grip the walls of the chamber to prevent it from putting too much pressure on the bolt face, I would think leaving lube on the case would not be a good idea.
    With pistol brass, it is not necessary to de-lube the brass after a lanolin / alchohol mixture.

    With rifle brass, for which I use pure lanolin on mine, you may wipe off the excess, but there will still be some left on the brass.

    It causes no problems whatsoever.

  14. #54
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    i dont leave it on rifle brass because it attracts dirt. Pistol brass is loaded with carbide dies and if not it too is cleaned for the same reason. I dont care about pretty brass just tumble long enough to clean the crap off.

  15. #55
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    I run a few progressive presses. Never had the pleasure of owning a new one. I only use one for rifle, and to be honest have not run rifle though it in years since the AR15 fad took off. I use an older Hornady projector (older LNL) press for large runs of 223/556. I do size and decap on a different press so I can wash after. I like Lloyd said I just tumble to get clean and not brand new looking.

    I have found that wetting down a rag on a flat surface with brake or parts cleaner, then rolling the rifle rounds across them, like you would your old lube pad works well to take off the lube. I do not soke them so no fear of damaging the round. If loaded with cast not PC'ed it even shines up the projectile. I think just using a clean rag would work just fine also.
    Stop being blinded by your own ignorance.

  16. #56
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    For pistol rounds a brief tumble works great. For rifle a little mineral spirits on a rag or towel works great. It’s lots easier on the skin and body than brake cleaner.
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

  17. #57
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Finster101 View Post
    Well, after a few thousand rounds I have never had an issue.
    I have shot several hundred thousand that have had lube on them without issue. Although if they are going to be around for awhile or not directly from box to gun and fire, I do post load tumble them for 15 min to remove the lube.

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by avogunner View Post
    I'll be the odd man out here... yes, Dillon's are good machines (I've had a SDB for 30 years) but I don't care for the 550. I went with the Hornady LnL and have been perfectly satisfied with it. When I want to pump out a bunch of .223 or Garand food, it takes care of business without any trouble.
    Again, not against blue stuff but I my Kool-aid comes in all colors.
    Same here. I have no dislike of blue products but I went red. I run 2 LNL's with case feeders, one Hornady & one 3D printed. Both run fine with very few issues. I just added a bullet feeder/collator to one this past week. I received a 3D printer for Christmas & built this collator https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...ullet-Collator.
    I've only tested it with 9mm J words but it ran flawless during a 400 round batch. Thinking about building another for the other LNL.

  19. #59
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    Hindsight being 20/20, I would have bought the 750 over my 550 for the auto advance; it's just safer, and it appears the 750 is the route you went so good job. I had to set a rule for myself on the 550... The ram does NOT get run up, without rotating the shell plate. I'd rather hammer out a squib than set off a double charge. Other than caliber conversion kits for each cartridge, the dillon units usually come ready to rock and roll with the kit... not much needed. You can keep tool heads set up for each cartridge you want to load, but honestly, locking lock rings are just as fast (and cheaper), and it really doesn't take me any time to re-set a charge bar... that extra 5 minutes is worth the hundreds of dollars saved. I'm in a hurry but not that big of a hurry.

  20. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sig View Post
    Same here. I have no dislike of blue products but I went red. I run 2 LNL's with case feeders, one Hornady & one 3D printed. Both run fine with very few issues. I just added a bullet feeder/collator to one this past week. I received a 3D printer for Christmas & built this collator https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...ullet-Collator.
    I've only tested it with 9mm J words but it ran flawless during a 400 round batch. Thinking about building another for the other LNL.
    I feel the same way. Dillons are perfectly fine, but I liked features on my green presses, and I have been perfectly happy with them. And my newish Pro Chucker 7 is awesome.....just couldn't resist trying out 7 stations. I do have a little red on my bench....a Hornady Pistol Bullet Feeder and my super fun little Lee APP processing press. No Blue on the bench so far......but I sure wouldn't rule that out in the future......

    I'm just a 6 month veteran at 3D printing. I love the tools I created for my presses. Two case feeders and and two bullet feeders later, I have no doubt you will be glad you did, if you decide to build another. Then another for the Lee app, another press that is just crying for 3d printed parts and collators.

    It doesn't matter what color or model your press is, a 3d printer is the easiest and cheapest route to make it even nicer.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check