Progressive reloaders

[dverna]

I am 79.5 years old and been reloading since 1959. I don't have now will I ever have a progressive reloading press. Too late the follow the children's lead now.

You are much too intelligent to post this. Some of us reload to shoot...and shoot a lot.

[Dave W.]

Thanks for the assistance. I found a great deal on a 750 complete set up and bought it. It has a little more than I need but couldn’t beat the price. It came with the following:

So you are the one that stole that out from under me. Congratulations, that was a good deal, you will enjoy it!

[BeemerMark]

When I was younger I bought a Dillon SQB for 45 acp because I shot a lot, and I mean a lot. Then I picked a second one up for 357 magnum. Both would have issues with seating primers. Hours to clean and debug. One friend bought a Hornady progressive. Same issue, you can load a few thousands rounds and then primers won't seat, flip, bounce out, etc, another friend bought a higher end Dillon. Bottom line is I removed the decapping pin and seat primers as a separate operation. Progressive presses are all the rage but unless your shooting thousands of round a month they just don't make sense. I've gone back to a single stage press.

[M-Tecs]

Progressive presses like to be clean. I have a shop vac and compressed air next to mine when I am loading. On average I get about 6,500 rounds on my 650's between stoppages and about 9,500 rounds on by 1050's between stoppages. I have a very large collection of presses. The single stations rarely get used even for small batches.

[BucketBack]

I avoid vacuums around gunpowder because of the static electricity.

The air hose does a good job keeping the RL550B clean.

[Baltimoreed]

I have 2 gifted 550b’s and 2 Lyman T2’s that I use. Two ways of doing the same thing, you can move the tool to the work or the work to the tool. I also prime on these presses. Either way works for me. I have an old dust buster vac and tooth brushes that I use for spills.

[imashooter2]

I use a cheap 1 inch paintbrush to keep my presses clean.

The primer issues are usually bench stiffness. Progressives want to be on a solid surface. No deflection.

[gnappi]

I use a cheap 1 inch paintbrush to keep my presses clean.

The primer issues are usually bench stiffness. Progressives want to be on a solid surface. No deflection.

Now there's a practical reloader, though I sprung for a parts cleaning brush. The handle is longer and the bristles a bit stiffer

[imashooter2]

Now there's a practical reloader, though I sprung for a parts cleaning brush. The handle is longer and the bristles a bit stiffer

I wanted stiffer too… I took scissors and cut the bristles to half length.

Compressed air is fine, but it sends powder granules all over the shop and blows my bench clutter around.

[pacecars]

So you are the one that stole that out from under me. Congratulations, that was a good deal, you will enjoy it!

Sorry! Sort of��

[Alstep]

I bought a used Hornady a few years ago. Has served me well so far.

[jmorris]

I avoid vacuums around gunpowder because of the static electricity.

The air hose does a good job keeping the RL550B clean.

I keep a small handheld pneumatic vacuum in my reloading room because I don’t like the debris blown onto my wood floor. If your blowing it off, you already have the compressed air needed.

That said there are lots of explosion proof vacuums and shop type, where debris don’t go through the impeller offer greater safety, especially if you suck up a live primer.

[sierra1911]

My first press was a Dillon 650 back in the late 90's. Before purchasing it, I'd never loaded a round. When trying to decide whether to buy a 550 or 650, multiple guys at the LGS told me that if I wanted a 550 that they'd sell me theirs so that they could get a 650.

With my now old eyes one accessory that I'd not want to be without is a lighting kit. There are many to choose from, I chose the UFO from http://kmssquared.com/ufo650.html.

There are a few other accessories that I've added over the years that, while not necessary, make using the press easier for me:

• Handle. Although I've heard that putting a sock over the ball on the standard handle eliminates the abrasion to the palm of your hand, I use the Dillon aluminum roller handle; others use ergo handles from https://inlinefabrication.com/collections/levers.

• Powder Measure. To make adjusting the powder measure simpler among different cartridges, I've installed the uniquetek.com Micrometer Powder Bar Kit on each of my three powder measures (small, large, and magnum). This allows for quickly setting the powder measure for previously established loads. I just write the micrometer setting in parentheses beside the grain weight in my load data binder. Set it, double check with a scale, and start loading.

• Powder Check. I always found it a nuisance to tighten the locknut on the powder check rod without affecting its setting. I now have a separate powder check rod for each cartridge. Dillon part numbers 21372, 21373, & 21374. To avoid having to set the length of the powder check push rod when changing cartridges, I used the depth gauge on my caliper to set each of the powder check dies to extend 1.400" above the toolhead.

• Quick Releases. Completely not necessary but nice are the Quick Releases from https://entirelycrimson.com/collections/dillon-xl-750 for the powder measures and powder check. Eliminates having to use allen wrenches to remove and install them.

• Press Height. I learned from others on this site that the best height for a press is such that your arm is fully extended (or nearly fully extended) at the bottom of the stroke without having to drop your shoulder. I use the https://inlinefabrication.com/ Ultramounts to accomplish this.

I've also modified my old 1990's casefeeder to supply power to my press light and Dillon case trimmer. I replaced the original power cord with a long one that runs from under the bench thru a hole next to the Ultramount and up to the feeder. I cut two holes in the case feeder for power switches and mounted the power supply for the light and the bridge rectifier for the trimmer inside the casefeeder. The picture shows the coiled trimmer cord dangling from the bottom of the casefeeder.

[FISH4BUGS]

OK being an old geezer at only 55 years old I have used a single stage press for smokeless reloading and a Lyman 310 for my BPCR loading for 35 years and I think it is time to try one of them nee fangled progressive presses. I reload 9mm, .357 Mag, 10mm, 10mm magnum (soon), 38-40, .410 GNR, .454 Casull and .480 Ruger presently. I am looking at the Dillon 550C or the 750. What accessories are needed along with these presses to get up and rolling out ammo? Pros and cons with these?

All I can tell you is what I do and what i use.
What to buy? The 550 is a workhorse press. It has manual advancing meaning you use your thumb to move the bullets into the next station. The 750 does it automatically with every pull of the handle. The 750 is a bullet factory. The 550 is more manual but just as good. I have had my 550 for maybe 30 years, starting life as a 450 and a number of (no cost) upgrades it lives as a 550b.
I like to watch my reloads closely. The manual nature of the 550 appeals to me because every step is a place to look and make sure all is well. I think if you are pounding out a thousand rounds per hour each round might not get the same close eye.
I am not sure that they both don't use the same die sets, but that would be a consideration. The 550 uses standard thread dies.
Preference? If you have to pound out thousands of rounds, the 750 is the way to go. I can do 400 per hour with my Dillon 550 at a leisurely pace. 3 hours on a Sunday afternoon or in the evening, and POOF! you have your thousand rounds. Works for me.
I'd like to think I am a pretty complete reloader, and have everything that I need. In thinking about what are the bare bones equipment choices? The following are needed: My Dillon 550b (has loaded well over 200,000 rounds), using reloading dies, shell plates, spare parts kit (you don't want to load 1000 9mm and need a part in the middle of the run), an RCBS scale, and I would advise a Lee Factory crimp die for each of your die sets (not crucial but they WORK!). You can go from there.
ADDITIONAL: since I am a bullet caster I have a Lee 20lb pot that is 30 years old, lots of bullet moulds ( I kind of collect them, too) and a Star sizer. You won't need those unless you cast your own bullets.
So my vote? 550c, hands down.

[Iowa Fox]

Fish4bugs where did you find the no cost upgrades for your 450?

[jsizemore]

Nothing beats pulling the handle and producing a finished round each time. Except for the first 3 on a 550. And when you start powder coating, it gets even better.

My buddy used to load for 3 guns for silhouette with a 550 he automated. He won most matches. I single loaded and didn't gain enough to make a difference. Most days.

[avogunner]

I'll be the odd man out here... yes, Dillon's are good machines (I've had a SDB for 30 years) but I don't care for the 550. I went with the Hornady LnL and have been perfectly satisfied with it. When I want to pump out a bunch of .223 or Garand food, it takes care of business without any trouble.
Again, not against blue stuff but I my Kool-aid comes in all colors.

[jmorris]

Nothing beats pulling the handle and producing a finished round each time.

Hitting a button and going about your business, only to come back to 100 loaded rounds does.

[FISH4BUGS]

Fish4bugs where did you find the no cost upgrades for your 450?

My customer number at Dillon is 3 digits. I have been a customer of theirs forever.
Back in the day, I recall that they did those upgrades for nothing.
It may have been easily 30 years or more ago.
I do not even recall specifically what the upgrade was, but it was free.

[AnthonyB]

Totally off topic question, but sorta close:
How do you guys loading rifle rounds on the progressive presses remove the sizing lubricant from the brass? I have been depriming/sizing/swaging separately and loading clean brass without sizing. Looking for a better way.
Tony