Found this video how to convert berdan primers to boxer primers interesting
https://youtu.be/AkKJfvMyuDg
Found this video how to convert berdan primers to boxer primers interesting
https://youtu.be/AkKJfvMyuDg
NRA Life Member
learn to make your own black powder collect bp arms as there presently not recorded
smokless is a fad its fading fast, helped along by obama
found this video a couple years ago, yes the process works, the copper tubing works and primers will fit, however I never got around to loading up ammo
I tried converting Berdan to Boxer years ago and used it successfully for several calibers. The cases that I used had primer pockets that would accept standard boxer primers. After punching out the spent Berdan primers via the hydraulic method I just used a hand drill and long enough drill bit to drill from the case mouth end. There is a small divit on the inside that centers the drill bit properly. On some cases didn't even have to deprime as the drilling would loosen the fired primer enough to fall out.
I did reprime some 303 British to use in a 30-40 Krag low pressure with cast worked great .I found the copper tubing a real pain to use and I found a copper sleave in the electrical department at Lowes that is used to crimp ground wires together it work perfect .
I knew an old guy who just super glued a boxer primer in and called it good, but he was only shooting a Cacano. A couple of months back I actually found a Berdan primed 22 Hornet case. Regards Stephen
I’ve used this tool; https://22lrreloader.com/products/be...reign-domestic
for kropatschek blanks with good results. They also sell properly sized bushings that fit the berdan gap for boxer sizes.
I convert them to use 209 shot gun primers. It's a bit of work but and it would be difficult to do without a lathe.
I've converted and fired some 7.62x54R cases with this exact method, RCBS dies, etc. Done as a see how well this works thing. Lot of work for garbage steel cases but its a tool to put in my toolbox. I did do a few soldering the insert in but honestly it didn't show any indication that was necessary.
~ Chris
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I just bought Berdan primers when they were available
I am going to experiment with "Rebuilding" Berdan Primers for .308/7.62 this winter. I have several hundred I have acquired and set aside in boxes after sorting Range Pickups over the last few years. The primer anvil is one potential "Problem Challenge Area" when rebuilding Boxer Primers - will be interesting to see if Berdan Primed would be easier. Oh well, a project for after the Holidays.
Last edited by MUSTANG; 12-10-2021 at 05:40 PM.
Mustang
"In the beginning... the patriot is a scarce man, and brave and hated and scorned. When his cause succeeds, the timid join him, for then it costs nothing to be a patriot." - Mark Twain.
Me too. I've loaded thousands of rounds in berdan primed .308, .303 and 9x56 MS using the gear I am about to describe. Before that, I had loaded Sako 7x33 and Kynoch .32-20 and .44-40, but that was with hydraulic and chisel decapping.
The first depriming is the only tricky one, and then only if the primer is crimped in. If the latter, after the first depriming (hydraulic or chisel) remove the crimp with a sharp knife.
After that it is plain sailing. The near standard 5.5 mm primer usually has a 1 mm flash hole. Others are about .035" (e.g. the big .303s), but can be drilled to 1 mm. or the punch can be made with smaller pins. The decapping punch for .308 and above is made from a piece of 5/16" rod. Drill two holes in the end for 1 mm pins (FISH HOOK SHANKS) and insert pins. Bend slightly if necessary to adjust alignment with flash holes. Insert punch and rotate to engage flash holes (easier than you might think). The primers come out so easily that the case can be held in the hand while the punch is tapped with a hammer.
To allow for the replacement of pins broken by excessive bending, or by decapping crimped in primers, a groove can be cut around the punch level with the bottom of the pins, in as far as the pin holes. This helps get the broken stubs out. After the first breakage you will probably know better and not do it again.
Smaller calibers can probably be done with smaller shank and a single pin.
Hydraulic decapping can also be done in the reloading press using a Lyman M Die (outdoors, with thorough drying of the gear afterwards). I have tried this only with .32-20, so it remains to be tested with tougher stuff like crimped in primers. And no, the cases did not balloon out.
Last edited by Wilderness; 12-10-2021 at 05:52 PM.
It'll be handy if I never need it.
Insomniac, agnostic, dyslectic - awake all night wondering if there is a Dog.
I use a RCBS, BERDAN DECAPPING TOOL, to remove the primers.
Are Berdan primers hard to come by in the US? Here they are easily available and on the cheaper side cost wise. They are made in Russia, so probably the import ban keeps them out of the US market. Maybe Turkey makes them.
I also would rely like to know where they can be had?
It is good to have options. I have a few hundred Berdan .308 cases and IIRC some in .30/06 and 5.56.
As long as I can get Boxer cases and primers it is not worth the effort...but I am lazy. Good knowledge to have if the need ever arises.
Don Verna
I would have to be needing to load a really rare cartridge before converting cases.
I recently got a minilathe and experimented with utilizing the existing berdan primer as the conversion sleeve. I used a center drill to bore out a center flash hole and the primer. I then swage it with the rcbs tool and then drill the flashhole with a 3/32" drill bit. Seems to work well in easily converting berdan primed 7.62x39 cases to SRP, which I got bunch vs. LRP.
I built a self centering drill . 5/16 rod for 30/31 cal with a peened , soldered , or set screw held drill bit . I did NNY ×39 cases , drilling about .1 deep , then decap in the sizer die .
I used an anvil , also 5/16 rod and peened the pocket smaller . Some I swaged a few I cut to LRP dia .
5 cycles all were still holding with 35kpsi loads .
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I was young and stupid then I'm older now. Me 1992 .
Richard Lee Hart 6/29/39-7/25/18
Without trial we cannot learn and grow . It is through our stuggles that we become stronger .
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I do almost the same, use a #1 combo center drill to start, removes the berdan anvil and drills the flash hole, then a #19 or 20 drill to break the hole in the old primer. This leave a bit more metal to swage and the SRM primer seats and grips well. the .161/.166 drilled hole helps center the swage button.
Tested out ~200 converted 7.62x39 cases using the existing berdan primer as a SRP sleeve and they all fired without any complications. Ran into some cases where the srp sleeve popped out along with the spent primer when decapping.
Saved those cases and dabbled with a new method by drilling the primer pocket a bit wider to press in a 22lr case, turning the 22lr case flush along the base of the case, and swaging it using the LRP button. Seems to hold up alot better.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |