How does one go about pulling one of these out when it's pushed all the way in and rusted. Not my rifle, a friend bought it and it's basically a parts gun now.
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How does one go about pulling one of these out when it's pushed all the way in and rusted. Not my rifle, a friend bought it and it's basically a parts gun now.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
If it were mine, I would lay it on it’s side and fill the hole with rust penetrant and let it sit over night. The next day I would tap it against a piece of tough wood to see if I could jar it loose. A strong magnet may be useful but I’ll bet inertial will work better.
On the plus side, if all else fails it was only a PSA lower, spring, and detent and all easily replaced.
Haha, had the same thing happen to me - no rust. I put the wrong spring in - shorter - but it was stuck.
Penetrant oil - yes.
If the detent moves - work it ‘in and out’.
If you get some good movement - try to depress it, then let it spring out...
Mine eventually came out.
Sorry, to haha - but my rifle sat in the gun safe - because I was stupid...I tried numerous ways. A little heat - to expand the hole. Never found a small enough magnet...
It looks like there may be material peened over the bore. Is there? Clean it off with an xacto knife or similar.
”We know they are lying, they know they are lying, they know we know they are lying, we know they know we know they are lying, yet they are still lying.” –Aleksandr Isayevich Solzhenitsyn
My Straight Shooters thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raight-shooter
The Pewter Pictures and Hallmarks thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-and-hallmarks
I favor Kroil for this application
The bolt release detent and spring should loosen up with Kroil
Failing this, tomorrow, I will talk about FINE carbide dental burrs and a Dremel tool.
Mike
Last edited by skeettx; 12-04-2021 at 09:38 PM.
NRA Benefactor 2004 USAF RET 1971-95
I never had that particular spring and detent ball rust in place, but I have freed up a bunch of springloaded ejectors by flooding with oil and using one of the electric etching pencils with the bit turned around to rattle the part. It kind of turns it into a miniature jackhammer.
It doesn't take long to get a ring of rust floating out of the hole; then sproing, and the hunt is one for the part. (Usually found behind or under the heaviest safe in the armory).
Robert
Penetrant as mentioned, try a punch & light taps to shock it so to speak to break up the rust. Flush it and keep trying. You might also try localized heat. That can break the bond up too and the aluminum will expand faster than the steel detent.
~ Chris
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Kroil and then compressed air might get it out. If it moves, it will be GONE. Compressed air also separates a stack of 5 gallon buckets that are stuck together.
Alum! Apply alum and let set, it will eat away at the steel but not the aluminum and the part will reduce in size allowing it to be removed!
REMOVING STUCK PARTS WITH ALUM
By Curt Altarac
Back to articles
Tools and supplies that you will need:
Alum
Aluminum Pot
Before working with alum, or any chemical, first read and understand the Material Data Safety Sheet (MSDS). Wear safety goggles and protective gear as needed and suggested in the MSDS.
Alum is a chemical often used for pickling, it is available in small quantities in the spice aisle of most grocery stores. The alum sold at MusicMedic.com is not sterile and is not intended for food use. However, this alum is pure and very effective for removing stuck parts.
A saturated Alum solution is effective for removing broken drills bits, taps, springs or other ferrous metals stuck in a non-ferrous metal parts, such as brass instruments.
To remove a stuck part with Alum, you will need an aluminum pot (the pot must be aluminum) large enough to submerge the part.
First, fill the aluminum pot with just enough water to submerge the ferrous metal part you need to remove. Check that the water level is higher than the frozen metal part. Remove the part from the water and heat the water to a boil.
Once the water boils, begin to dissolve the alum crystals in the water. Continue dissolving the alum crystals until the water is saturated. It is often possible to add more alum to this solution than water.
When saturation is reached, place the part into the solution. Be sure that the ferrous part you are trying to remove is submerged in the boiling solution. When the ferrous part begins to bubble, the solution is working. Continue to boil the part in the solution for several hours adding water as needed to compensate for evaporation.
After several hours of boiling in the solution, the part will dissolve into a rusty muddy substance. Remove the sludge and the stuck part is gone!
The solution can then be stored for future use.
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Last edited by deltaenterprizes; 12-05-2021 at 10:34 AM.
No kroil, or alum, beating it on a 2x4 didn't move it, I flat spotted it with a dremel and going to use one of those auto pin punches to try and shake it, if not I'm going to drill it.
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I oiled mine today when I got back from hunting. Just because.
Deplorable infidel
Got it out, a mix of heat and drilling got it to spin, then a couple wacks on a 2x4 got the detent out, picked the spring out with dental picks and into the sonic cleaner, blew out all the detent holes with brake cleaner to be sure. Then reassembled with new parts and back it went.
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Well done! Do you have a plan for the redeemed lower?
Went back to my friend, it was is his that he bought flooded and busted, the upper receiver was cracked at the rear takedown lug. I did it as a favor, he let's me use his car lift a lot to fix on my vehicles, we went through most of it at his house, but I took the lower and the bcg to clean and fix them for him.
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Another mission of mercy. The owner’s memories outweigh any economic sense.
“There is a remedy for all things, save death.“
Cervantes
“Never give up, never quit.”
Robert Rogers
Roger’s Rangers
There are three kinds of men. The one that learns by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves.
Will Rogers
Those parts could probably tell an interesting story…
I don't even know how someone could crack an upper like that,
short of using a hammer, which is likely what happened.
Maybe clamping the lugs in a vise and torquing on the barrel nut? It is a quandary.
”We know they are lying, they know they are lying, they know we know they are lying, we know they know we know they are lying, yet they are still lying.” –Aleksandr Isayevich Solzhenitsyn
My Straight Shooters thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raight-shooter
The Pewter Pictures and Hallmarks thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-and-hallmarks
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |