How to improve a trigger on a vintage 22 rifle

[10 Spot Terminator]

Hello to all fellow gun enthusiasts . I recently bought a Savage 23aa in 22 LR that shoots better than the trigger will allow . Shooting from a vice with its favorite ammo it will chew under 1/2 inch ragged holes at 50 yards . From sandbags I can get a respectable 7/8 inch hole if I work very hard at it . The trigger pull tends to load up and stutter a tad just before it finally breaks over and fires . This of course tends to pull me off target some . I've heard some say to use some crokus ??? cloth and polish the trigger but having an exploded view of the assembly I think I need to pass or find a good smith who could tackle this . I live in central Oregon and would travel some to do this unless you have some ideas that might help out . Thanks for reading , 10 spot .

[Winger Ed.]

Cool gun!

I wouldn't go hacking around on that trigger. It's easy to take metal off,,,,, putting it back on-- that gets a little more involved..
It sort of sounds like there is a little bit rust 'flower' on its engagement surfaces.

I'd clean it really really well, and very carefully and gently remove any rust or other evil spirits in the trigger group.
I've had good luck cleaning and polishing things like that with just a little oil on a piece of blue jean cloth laid out smooth on flat surface.

If that doesn't work, I'd take it in to someone that's already done a few hundred trigger jobs before they got to yours.

[GregLaROCHE]

As Ed said, if a good cleaning doesn’t solve your problem, a good gunsmith with experience doing trigger work, will probably get it to work better than you would.

[georgerkahn]

I totally AGREE with here above posts, but will add that I had an old GECO .22 with symptoms similar to as-described by 10 Spot Terminator. Knowing any attempt to "improve" mechanically had more than a good chance (for me!) of failure, I first cleaned all with 100% mineral spirits, and then sprayed it more than liberally with G96. I shot the .22 -- perhaps about 50 (a box) -- and it seemed to show an improvement. I repeated the mineral spirits -- quite a bit of dirt, now, but it could have been residue from just-fired .22s? Anyhoos -- following, it was MUCH improved to the point I "could live with it".
Just something you might try before, say (my 100% happening) you lose that teeny spring which flies into ???? upon disassembly...

[John Taylor]

Some of the less expensive guns do not have the parts properly hardened from the factory. Many have stamped out parts with rough surfaces. Polishing the parts can help but if they are hardened the parts will slide easier.

[OS OK]

Don't be afraid to work on it yourself...make sure you have the part you need, find out what you should do to recondition that part and go for it.
Every little project like this will make you more confident doing other repairs you wouldn't have tried.

I think this is your sear...it looks to be available.



https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-man...v/sporter-23aa

[dverna]

OS OK made a good point. If replacement parts are available and not too expensive, I would take a shot at improving the trigger.

I have a "gritty" trigger on a cheap air gun and just giving it a cleaning and putting on Lubriplate made a significant difference. Gentle polishing should not cause a problem. My eyes are not very good so a magnifier or 10x loupe is handy.

[pietro]

.

Don't forget to apply a light lube to the trigger pivot points and the sear surfaces after smoothing them.

Crocus cloth or emery paper (look in the sandpaper section of a hardware store ) may do the job, but a fine India stone works better - just go easy & don't remove much metal.
(polish a bit, try it in the gun, re-polish as req'd)

[ulav8r]

Don't even consider using crocus cloth or any coated abrasive(sandpaper). A FINE India stone or even better a hard Arkansas stone should be used. The stones will allow you to keep the edges of the trigger and sear flat/straight. Rounded or crooked edges will not give a good pull or remain consistent. The angles should be such that pulling the trigger does not force the sear back or allow it to start forward before it releases. Also the faces that contact each other should make contact across their full width.

If doing this for your first time, wait until you have replacements in hand before starting. That way if you mess up, the gun is not useless afterward.

If the parts are just slightly rough, they may smooth up a little with use.