I have a percussion gun that the hammer isn't square to the nipple. It takes a few times firing before it will set the cap off. Thinking I could just heat the hammer and bend it to make it square. Anyone ever done this? Anything wrong with this thinking?
Works for me!
I have had to bend many hammers to get them to line up properly.
I just remove the hammer.
Place it in a vise with aluminum jaw covers.
Then heat it up with a Mapp gas torch.
You can use propane , it just takes longer to heat up.
Oxy Acetiline works too , but can heat the hammer up really fast.
Heat the hammer until it is almost red hot in the area you intend to bend.
Then slowly bend the hammer with a wrench or pair of pliers with smooth jaws.
When done,
Let the hammer cool down , but do not quench it in water until the hammer has cooled down considerably.
I would start by checking the hammers hit in relation to the face of the nipple also. a lo nipple where the hammer isnt getting a good hard hit may be the problem. A small piece of play dough in the nose of the hammer and fired may show that the hammer isnt hitting solid enough. The hammer may not only need to be bent but also "stretched a little.
Another thing to check is the fit of the square drive between lock and hammer. excessive play here can lighten or change hammer function.
A good way to test this is cut a disc of .015 shim stock that fits in the nose and glue it in then try and fire a few caps. Here a new nipple may fix the problem. or the disc can be soldered into the hammer nose
Bending the hammer is a acceptable fix but is a touchy chore. and heating may ruin any colors or finish.
Country gent makes a good point about checking all the other conditions first , before you decide to bend your hammer.
If you damage the finish on your hammer.
It can always be refinished by Lamping the hammer.
That is done by heating the hammer up , and quenching it in Oil.
The metal only needs to be heated to the point that it makes the oil smoke a little when the hot metal is dipped in it.
Usually when a percussion doesn't go off first strike but does on the second, it is because of cap to nipple fit. If that is the case you can slim down the nipple in a drill or drill press with some sand paper of file.
Aim small, miss small!
I was with a friend when he showed his gun to a gunsmith, who specializes in muzzle loaders. After a quick look, he said he needed to heat the hammer and bend it into the correct position. That may have been specific to his gun. There could also be other things that may be need to be done as others have mentioned.Originally Posted by hawkenhunter50
This!
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
To Trim or refresh my old nipples.
I use a threaded rod coupling that has an internal thread that matches the nipple thread like 1/4-28.
Then I chuck the coupling in my drill press or electric drill.
I get it spinning and see that the nipple is not bent over.
Then while spinning , I lay a fine file on it and file off the mushroomed area on the tip of the nipple.
I find a lot of mushroomed nipples from people dry firing the gun.
If you want to polish it up a bit, just use sandpaper on a flat stick to smooth out any file marks that are left.
The threaded rod coupling works great an is better than just trying to chuck the nipple in the drill press chuck.
Other things to check would be is it a replacement nipple that's too long or short? Is it a screw in bolster that isn't turned to the right angle? Maybe the wrong hammer?
They can often be made to work but if it doesn't go well the hammer can end up looking odd or be difficult to get tempered properly. Be sure there isn't a simpler solution.
Thanks for all the suggestions so far. I have taken the lock apart and do not find anything to my eye that is wrong, it seems like a quality lock. The nipple looks near new condition and appears to me to be the right height. I will try what Country Gent mentions using shim stock in the hammer nose and see what that does. The hammer is visually cocked off to the side of being square, I really feel this is the issue. Maybe in the next day or so I can get a picture posted. I tried #10 and #11 caps, they both take multiple strikes, the #10 are even worse taking many hits to ignite.
You can bend most of the hammers or "cock" as they are made today without having to heat them. I was taught to do the bending slowly are carefully until the striker lines up just right to the nipple. I took a grade 8 bolt and flattened the sides so it can be used as needed when inserting it into the square hole after pulling the hammer off the lock assembly. I use the ends of adjustable wrenches that have a nice smooth hole in the steel which I can fit over the end as needed. I have a big vice and use aluminum jaw protectors so the steel will not get damaged. Maybe the next time I have to bend one I'll take a video for YouTube?
John
Food for thought. Cap to nipple fit is a common problem. Nipples and caps are off by a few thousandths and the taper is different also. that's why it takes two strikes to fire. First strike pushes the nipple on the rest the way and the second will then fire. It's also fairly common for the hammer to not be completely square with the nipple. It usually isn't a problem other than looks as long as the hammer falls and fits over the nipple.
Aim small, miss small!
Update: After reading the suggestions I decided to hold off on bending anything for now. I removed the lock and completely disassembled. The lock was dirty and had some dried up oil. I cleaned everything real good and polished with steel wool. Everything mechanically seems ok. The fit of the hammer on the square shank is very tight, no play. It took a brass punch to punch the shank off the hammer. After putting it back together, it now fires within 2 tries, sometimes on the first try. Before it was 3-5 times before it would fire. Following Country Gents idea, next I glued a piece of .016 shim stock in the nose of the hammer. I didn't have .015. It is curing now and will test fire tomorrow. The nipple is like new condition but the fit of the nipple is very loose. So the nipple may also be a factor even though it is in good condition. The other reason I decided against trying to bend the hammer is the spot where it needs to be bent is towards the top of the hammer where everything starts getting thick. The part where it moves along the lockplate is straight. Its the thicker section that looks cocked to the side. This looks harder to try and get aligned correctly. So before doing this will try the simpler methods advised. Thanks again for suggestions.
I think you are on a good path. I like that you are taking the time to address issues and not just jumping in to something that may not be necessary.
How meaningful can you be, there is only so much to say before you are talking too much.
Nipple is loose fit? I would not fire it like that. Nipples have blown out and this is dangerous. Get the correct nipple replacement. If still loose, they make oversized nipples.
Aim small, miss small!
Good advice here,I would change the nipple before bending the hammer,your on the right path good luck.
I started out with nothing and I still have most of it left.
Paralyzed Veterans of America
Looking for a Hensly &Gibbs #258 any thing from a two cavity to a 10cavityI found a new one from a member here
If the caps are lose, pinch them a bit so they are tight enough to stay on the nipple. I think some others misunderstood what you meant.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
Yes you are correct, the caps fit is loose on the nipple. The nipple itself threads nice and tight. Also forgot to mention the inside of the lockplate is marked RUSS HAMM 3. Is that name familiar to anyone?
Last edited by hawkenhunter50; 11-30-2021 at 12:27 PM.
I have a similar problem on my TC. The cup on the hammer falls off center to the front side, so I don't get a solid strike. Before I try and stretch the hammer, I will clean up the cup and deburr the nipple. I may have a shorter nipple, which would improve the condition. I will consider alter the cup slightly to get a better strike?
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