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Thread: Just started powder coating

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
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    Just started powder coating

    I just became a member of the forum. Thanks for letting me in here. I am retired and have always reloaded and have cast my own bullets for several years but just did my first batch of powder coated bullets a couple weeks ago. Needless to say since that was my first batch I am still a bit reserved about them. I wanted to use a lead bullet in a 357 SIG but did not want the leading issue. So I think i did my homework and finally just jumped in and tried it. I actually got my own little toaster oven and some powder stuff. It went pretty easy. So I am anxious to learn what I can here about this, to me anyway, new process.

    Do any of you coat and heat for a second time? I did notice on the first go round there were some areas that did not get coated.

    I size after the coating, Thinking through that, it kind of has to be that way. Anyone size before and then after again?

    What suggestions or do's and don't would you have?

    I sure do appreciate the help.

    Retired but still learning.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master 358429's Avatar
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    Awesome tell some more about the guns and bullets you are using.

    (I have collected a bunch of 40 s&w brass and thinking about a baby glock 357 sig I saw at the local gun store last week. )

    I want to use these bullets.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    They dont need to be perfect. In doubt do a smash test with a hammer and see what you have. It should stick even if you turn that bullet into a coin.

    Try a box of federal syntec ammo, and their pc coatings are ugly! But they didnt lead.

    I use 1 coat, and size after pc.

    The most important step is making sure your actually getting 400 degrees. I use a non contact thermometer. And 40cal and up need a few extra minutes for the heat to soak thru the bullet.

  4. #4
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    Dieselhorses's Avatar
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    Hi Renoce and welcome to the forum! A few things to remember when powder coating... 1) Powder coating bullets (if done right) WILL protect your barrel from leading! 2)Quality of powder coat is important-that's why I either order from Smoke4320 (goHERE) on this forum). 3)Powdercoat is forgiving when it comes to lead hardness BUT "bullet fit" is high up on list for proper obturation. "Obturation" is the bullet's ability to "fan out" it's base to not let the hot gases bypass thus leading up barrel. 4) Not a good idea to resize bullets BEFORE powder coating-will leave lead deposits in sizer. 5) Sometimes I find it necessary to "re-coat" bullets previously powder coated to either change color or they initially weren't coated enough. (Resize after each coat). 5) I used to "water quench" after powder coating but I like my alloy BHN between 12-20 depending on if pistol or rifle so I just air cool. 6) Double check your oven with a thermometer and to make sure you're right at 400F! I checked mine and the dial setting was off a "smidgen"!

    Hope this helps!
    The unexamined life is not worth living....Socrates
    Pain, is just weakness leaving the body....USMC
    Fast is fine, but accuracy is FINAL!....Wyatt Earp

  5. #5
    Boolit Master


    Walks's Avatar
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    Welcome aboard, can't add anything to what's been said. Other then I didn't have good experience PCing after sizing, since Ya got to have a bit of lube when sizing. You then have to clean the lube OFF the Bullets BEFORE PC, PITB
    I HATE auto-correct

    Happiness is a Warm GUN & more ammo to shoot in it.

    My Experience and My Opinion, are just that, Mine.

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  6. #6
    Boolit Mold
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    For my first try I used a Lee mold and poured a 125 gr, .356 RN, then a .452 200 grain TC,, I did size after the coating and no I did not try to size wo any lube on them.
    I do appreciate all the help. An old dog can learn new tricks, its just this old dog is a bit nervous going forward with the new fangled idea.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master



    Dieselhorses's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walks View Post
    Welcome aboard, can't add anything to what's been said. Other then I didn't have good experience PCing after sizing, since Ya got to have a bit of lube when sizing. You then have to clean the lube OFF the Bullets BEFORE PC, PITB
    ^^^what he said too!^^^
    The unexamined life is not worth living....Socrates
    Pain, is just weakness leaving the body....USMC
    Fast is fine, but accuracy is FINAL!....Wyatt Earp

  8. #8
    Boolit Master



    Dieselhorses's Avatar
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    Don't be scared to try new things! Most guys/gals on here have WAY more experience reloading than I do-including you, but sometime after I started hand-loading I did the PC thing. It's funny because some of my revolvers don't like their bullets "sized". The gun itself wants to size em! Others prefer the sized ones. Let me know if you have issues with the TC's as I could never get them to cycle properly in my G-22.
    The unexamined life is not worth living....Socrates
    Pain, is just weakness leaving the body....USMC
    Fast is fine, but accuracy is FINAL!....Wyatt Earp

  9. #9
    Boolit Master Wheelguns 1961's Avatar
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    Some colors cover better than others. Smoke’s powders are all that I use. Jet black covers real good as does his red, blue, and clear. White and yellow look a little thin, but they still work.
    Due to the price of primers, warning shots will no longer be given!

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    FWIW, I do size before and after PC. Bullets for my .308 do not need lube to size before PC. I use the Lyman #2 alloy so not soft lead either.

    One of my rifle bullets is a bore riding design (.308, 210gn) and it gets GC and driving bands sized, then nose size before PC and again after PC. Yes, each bullet goes through the sizer 4 times They give me near MOA accuracy so I don't complain

    I used the Lee sizing dies for a while then changed to the NOE sizing kit and just bought the bushings/rams that I needed.

    If you do need lube to size before PC then just wash the bullets in acetone before applying PC. Only takes a few min.

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master


    GregLaROCHE's Avatar
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    You’ve made a good choice powder coating. It’s not the only thing I do, but it’s great stuff and I do a lot of it, compared to other methods. An important thing to know, is to keep your powder 100% free of humidity. Remove all air from thé plastic bags it’s stored in and it’s a good idea to double bag it. Don’t ever put used powder back in with new. If you live in a dry climate, it may not be as important, but if you have moderate to high humidity, it’s a must. Good luck and enjoy.

  12. #12
    Boolit Mold
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    Forgot about humidity, I'm in Indiana so humidity is a constant factor in everything.
    Thanks,

  13. #13
    Boolit Mold
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    Do you all worry about your bullets touching when they are in the oven? I use a wire basket that I made for placing the bullets in the oven with, It works it is crude but it works.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master 358429's Avatar
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    The wire basket is good the bullets touching is ok. Use leather gloves to separate the boolets as they cool so they do not stick together.

    I dump the whole tray into a clean cardboard box and separate the clumps.

    I like to size the bullets when they are still warm and soft from the oven.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    If I cast a lot of pistol bullets I'd just use a wire basket. But, I don't Most of my bullets are for my .308Win so they are all stood up on the bases and do not touch each other. I only cook about 100 at a time.

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy gnappi's Avatar
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    Hi and welcome! I'm also rather new to powder coating, but what I've settled on works.

    You didn't say what mold you used or how long you're working with the Sig round, but I also cast for my .357 Sig as well as the 9x25, but my Lee mold (#90457 356-125-2R 9 mm 125 Gr.) doesn't like being powder coating unless it's been sized first. If I don't size first, many are a bear to size after PC'ing. I also size after PC'ing. I have lots of time as I'm retired also

    My Lyman mold (358242) is a rounder nose, and has the same issue as the Lee, as both cast larger than expected. The Lee longer nose / ogive looks better but the shorter nose of the Lyman mold leaves me more room on the side to get a crimp and still meet the LOA.
    Last edited by gnappi; 12-01-2021 at 12:19 AM.
    Regards,

    Gary

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check