That’s the reason I’ve bought ingot mold - I just always keep it under the spout.
That’s the reason I’ve bought ingot mold - I just always keep it under the spout.
I've never had this happen to Me, but then I don't use Lee pots. I've had it go in the other direction.
I have had a pot "Geyser" on Me.
The pot, an RCBS Pro-Melt had been left full when put away about 10yrs previously. I set it up on the outdoor patio and FORGOT to put an inverted ingot mold over the top. Went to dig out other casting gear, came back to "Sparklies" all over roof and floor of patio.
Just really glad no one was out on the patio at the time.
I HATE auto-correct
Happiness is a Warm GUN & more ammo to shoot in it.
My Experience and My Opinion, are just that, Mine.
SASS #375 Life
I got tired of my Lee pot dripping all the time, so I put in a longer screw to hold on the mechanism that lifts the pointed rod out of the spout, then put a washer and a spring between the mechanism and the screw head. Now there's a spring pushing the rod into the spout and the drip has diminished greatly. I keep a small pan on the base under the spout anyway to catch any stray drips and overflows when I'm filling a mold.
That happened once to me with my LEE. I turned it on to heat, and went about getting other things ready. When I came back there was a pile of lead under it. I like the spring idea!
When I bought my RCBS 20 pound pot about 10 years ago I turned it on got it filled with a Linotype mix with no problem. Went into the reloading room to get some molds and came out and the pot was empty! Since then I call it the Leakomatic!
A "plus" to above-posts and comments. One thing I might add is I had a much smaller pile from a leak years back, and it seemed there was no easy way to address it. I got the bright idea of using a grinder wheel on a Dremel to make "cuts" into the now hardened lead, and it was incredible how few "back-and-forths" plus "wiggles" with a minus-head screwdriver it took for the lead to readily break off and be removed. I did not wear any face-mask back then -- but in retrospect it may have been a wise addition. Good luck!
geo
I tried on of these bottom pour melters - once. Exactly why I hate bottom ours . . been a dipper for 60 years and will continue with my trustee Lyman bottom pour ladle and pot. For those that use the bottom pour pots - have all the respect in the world for you!
From the looks of things, you may have had more than half the pot filled with solid alloy when you turned it on. As the melt warmed, it expanded and the solid alloy in the center of the pot lifted the rod off the valve seat allowing the liquid to escape. Starting with the top of the alloy about where the heating element is located reduces the likelihood of that happening. The "cap" will melt before the rod can be lifted off the valve seat.
As others have done I've picked up a ladle and never looked back. The amount of time I wasted messing with the bottom pours I have more than made up for with the ladle.
I guess if I spent time 'tweaking' the bottom pour I would have changed to a ladle as well. So far I don't have to mess with it. Just turn it on, wait for everything to get to temp, and start casting. And it is a Lee. FWIW, I usually have a 3/4 full pot when I turn it on.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |