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Thread: I have a brass mold question...

  1. #1
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Arizona City

    I have a brass mold question...

    I have this mold, see?

    Well, I have never used a dinky little brass mold like this - do I need a really thick glove when the metal integral handles start getting hot? How long before it DOES get hot under normal usage, i.e., can I drop 50 balls and then have to drop it? I really want to try the conical bullet. I know the steel sprue plate has a bit of rust on it. Is there anything special I have to do to maintain the mold itself? Does it need to be smoked or mold release, or are they known to drop easy.
    Thank you!
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  2. #2
    Hello armoredman,

    Personally I would think those handles are going to get warm, or even hot.
    I usually wear lether gloves while casting.
    I'd suggest giving it a try, if it get to hot set it down.


  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

    Wayne Smith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Hampton Roads, Virginia
    They are gonna get hot really fast. Don't try to cast without gloves, and probably welding gloves. That's a one piece mold and your hand is as hot as the mold!
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Atlanta, NY 14808
    If I were concerned about hot handles, I would consider making wood handles, removeable, or wrapping those with leather shoestrings or something similar.
    Micah 6:8
    He hath shewed thee, O man, what is good; and what doth the LORD require of thee, but to do justly, and to love mercy, and to walk humbly with thy God?

    "I don't have hobbies - I'm developing a robust post-apocalyptic skill set"
    I may be discharged and retired but I'm sure I did not renounce the oath that I solemnly swore!

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Bent Ramrod's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Southern Arizona
    Even with welding gloves, you will find it hot to hold when it is up to the temperature needed to cast good boolits.

    I put heavy cotton gloves inside heavy leather gardening gloves and still find casting with metal molds like Ideal nutcracker tools and early Winchester moulds something of an ordeal. If you do heavy manual labor and have calloused hands, the heat might be more bearable.

  6. #6
    Boolit Bub

    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Any welding supply outfit will have heavy gloves which will work ! Remember you go cheap, you buy 3 times !!

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

    gwpercle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Baton Rouge, Louisiana
    I used to buy those little moulds at flea markets and garage sales ... just to collect them .
    As boolit moulds they leave a lot to be desired .

    They get hot from the get go , use some gloves . Block alaignment usualy is pathetic if the mould is old ... new reproductions aren't much better .
    I inherited a brace of Manhatten Navy Cap & Ball revolvers they came with an iron mould and I gave it a workout ... I was interested in what the conical boolits would do . Both ball and conical were a little miss alaigned . It wasn't a great mould ... a Lee 2 cavity round ball mould was so much better it wasn't funny .
    Heat that puppy up and see how they drop ... brass shouldn't need any special treatment .
    If the hinge pin is tight ...lube it .
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
    " Let's Go Brandon !"

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check