Pid

[HATCH]

You want 100mm length. That is @4 inches
The one you pictured is only 50mm



Here is a. Good choice

[HATCH]

also you need to verify the temp range for that probe you have with the yellow curly cord.
You want at least 500c

[dearslayer]

Actually this one might be better as it's longer??

Sent from my LYA-L0C using Tapatalk

[dearslayer]

Sorry sent my last response before I seen yours.

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[HATCH]

The one you picked is a good choice. It’s long enough and has a plug

[dearslayer]

Awesome thanks. I'll place the order.

[TjB101]

Awesome thanks. I'll place the order.

So, how did you finally make out? Figure out the Autotune?

[dearslayer]

So, how did you finally make out? Figure out the Autotune?

Hello... life has been busy so only just finally got around to using the PID just 2 weekends ago to cast about 1350 9mm . Originally I had tried to set the Temp to measure in Fahrenheit as opposed to Celsius and things wouldn't register properly. I had watched a Youtube video stating it could be done but it didn't work for me so I set it back to factory default in Celsius. Set the range to 371 and I was really surprised that it held the temp within a degree or 2 but for the most part it was bang on. As for the AT...I hit the AT button about 30 degrees before it hit the set temp but to be honest I'm not sure what it's actually supposed to do. What is the purpose and how do I know it's autotuned? The AT light did come on and blinked for some time before finally going out if I remember correctly. At any rate I'm totally happy with it compared to all the fussing I was doing previously with the thermostat on the Lee pot trying to maintain a constant temp which was next to impossible for a rookie caster like myself. This thing is a godsend and I'm glad I built it.

Going back to post # 54 I still don't quite get it. Mental block I guess.

[TjB101]

Glad to hear it’s working, albeit sans Fahrenheit setting. When I ran the AT feature it was right from a cold pot. Turned it on, temp set to 720, and hit AT. Ran for 45 min, added no other ingots, and let it run until it turned off. I guess it learns what it takes to reclaim heat based on the output of the pot. Today mine will overshoot to about 730 every once in a while but keeps everything stable for me.

I really like to see the temp when I add my cut sprues … I’ve learned just how many scoops I can drop in before the temp goes too low and I have a (cold) clogged opening.

[dearslayer]

Myself I added the sprues as I cast and the temp never really dropped at all doing it this way. Perhaps I just got lucky the first time.

[popper]

Should run about 385 C to get 720ish F. If you start with a full pot, set AT at start. It will try to learn(tune) the temp curve to get to temp fast with little overshoot. That is the purpose of a PID. If you normally use half pot to cast it will overshoot a bit but just wait till it settles out. Your PID should have a 'dead band' setting - the upper and lower operating temp.

[thump_rrr]

Anyone know of a source for a fully assembled PID in Canada? I contemplated ordering all the parts from Amazon.ca to assemble one but the total price would be in the neighborhood of $200.00 . I've seen the Youtube videos of Johnny's reloading bench from 2016 and it's a great source, but at that price of $200 CDN I'm thinking if one can be purchased fully assemble for even a little more then it might be worth it for a beginner caster.

Sorry I'm late to the party but these are the parts I purchased to build my own.
These are in Canadian dollars.
https://abra-electronics.com/sensors...oller-kit.html

I replace the probe in the kit with this one for a lead pot.
https://abra-electronics.com/sensors...be-sensor.html
the one that comes with the kit is good for a lube sizer or mold.


All you need to add is a plug from an old extension cord, a receptacle and a metal box of any kind.
An ammo can comes to mind.
A 10 year old can build one.

[thump_rrr]

Hello... life has been busy so only just finally got around to using the PID just 2 weekends ago to cast about 1350 9mm . Originally I had tried to set the Temp to measure in Fahrenheit as opposed to Celsius and things wouldn't register properly. I had watched a Youtube video stating it could be done but it didn't work for me so I set it back to factory default in Celsius. Set the range to 371 and I was really surprised that it held the temp within a degree or 2 but for the most part it was bang on. As for the AT...I hit the AT button about 30 degrees before it hit the set temp but to be honest I'm not sure what it's actually supposed to do. What is the purpose and how do I know it's autotuned? The AT light did come on and blinked for some time before finally going out if I remember correctly. At any rate I'm totally happy with it compared to all the fussing I was doing previously with the thermostat on the Lee pot trying to maintain a constant temp which was next to impossible for a rookie caster like myself. This thing is a godsend and I'm glad I built it.

Going back to post # 54 I still don't quite get it. Mental block I guess.

Here is a link to the manual for the controller.
SL2 is the parameter to change from Celsius to Fahrenheit. change the 0000 to 0001
https://abra-electronics.com/index.p...achment_id=135

[Mike W1]

Here is a link to the manual for the controller.
SL2 is the parameter to change from Celsius to Fahrenheit. change the 0000 to 0001
https://abra-electronics.com/index.p...achment_id=135

Which may or may not do the trick depending on which REX C100 you have. I have in my notes the LOCK settings for 3 different setups and I never had any luck changing to Fahrenheit. I don't doubt some models will let you do it but mine don't. Think the 3 that I regularly use are Japanese built and seeing no need to screw with them anymore am not going to. But I have a Chinese knockoff that I spent some time with today. Gotta love those translations!!! The SL2 on it's options says "SLIGHTLY" whatever that means. I remember on the others it did say F or C. This one had additional info saying set lock to 1000 to get to the COD menu which I don't remember seeing before to get to the secondary parameters.

[HATCH]

Not all units are real ones. Some are clones and on the clones not all the features work

[tdoor4570]

where can a person find a wiring diagram and parts list for a PID?

[Mal Paso]

Not all units are real ones. Some are clones and on the clones not all the features work

I was wondering about that. I have one from amazon like that, misbehaves and settings missing. It's better to buy from someone that does the vetting for you like Hatch or Auber if you just have to build your own.

[HATCH]

where can a person find a wiring diagram and parts list for a PID?

There is a sticky on wiring

[thump_rrr]

I was wondering about that. I have one from amazon like that, misbehaves and settings missing. It's better to buy from someone that does the vetting for you like Hatch or Auber if you just have to build your own.

The first one I built was an Auber.
It is a much better unit.
I use the Auber ones with Ramp and Soak on industrial ovens quite regularly.
Many years ago before online shopping we were paying nearly $800 for the 1/4 DIN ones from the oven manufacturer.
I believe the one from Auber is around $90.

When I gave one client the price for the Auber he ordered 5 to put on his shelf.

[K7sparky]

I just found this thread while wondering if anyone else was using PID controllers on their pots.

I tried using a retired Yokogawa UP30 about 15 years ago. Wired everything in a in a pile planning on finding a nice box for it. The round to it is still waiting and the only box it’s seen is cardboard for storage when not casting. YEP UGLY.
Nowhere as easy to program as these new ones.
Also it was necessary to gin up an interface to use the Yokogawa output 4 to 20 mA to turn on a TRIAC from 0 to 100%

Several days ago a REX-100 kit 0 to 1300C with probe rated 400C arrived at the grand price of $18.02 including tax.

Got it set up on the bench with a mV source to the TC input and a light bulb for load on the SSR.
Before buying it I did a search for manuals and got the RKC (Japan) manuals to see what it would do.
Great fun playing with the setup

As Mike W1 noted in post #74 changing SL2 from 0 to 1 did not change the displayed temperature from C to F.
Considerable head scratching more digging finally the AHA!

The cheapie China units are knock offs made by Berm.
Thump rrr in post 73 noted the link to one of the RKC manuals I have
Thus the differences are not only in wiring.
I am guessing even though all the parameters are the same designations they may not be programmed in the Berm firmware.
Another is LCK unlock RKC 0000 Berm 1000 but 0000 also works.
Reading the instructions that were packed with the Berm unit some of information seems to be for the RKC.
Berm units don’t seem to be field selectable for TC type or range either.
A closer look at the Berm instructions for parameters SL1 To SL11 is GOD set to 0 not COD.
They got the second set of parameters correct as COD=1

I said it was ugly