Pid

[dearslayer]

Got most of the parts referenced by Johnny's reloading bench to assemble this PID but still waiting on Amazon for thermal coupler socket and I still have to get a couple clamp type connectors for the rear where the power comes in and a power switch as well. I may have ordered the wrong controller solid state module because it sits just about 1/4" too proud , not allowing the cover to sit all the way down. It's all in the details and the OCD in me will be itching to fix it somehow. Hoping the module will work just the same. Still has to be all wired up but it's a start.

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[megasupermagnum]

Do you mean the solid state relay sits too high? If you aren't too OCD, cut the base off that heat sink, and self tap screw it from the backside. If you are, you just need to find a slightly shorter heat sink.

[dearslayer]

Do you mean the solid state relay sits too high? If you aren't too OCD, cut the base off that heat sink, and self tap screw it from the backside. If you are, you just need to find a slightly shorter heat sink.

Yes the relay sits too high. I could cut/grind the bottom of the heat sink and drill it to accept the screws I suppose. If I cut it so the bottom plate of the sink sits completely flat on the base of the box it will probably clear. It's just about the same dimension.

[dearslayer]

Photo attached

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[dearslayer]

Couldn't rest until it fit proper. Damn OCD!

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[TjB101]

Got most of the parts referenced by Johnny's reloading bench to assemble this PID but still waiting on Amazon for thermal coupler socket and I still have to get a couple clamp type connectors for the rear where the power comes in and a power switch as well. I may have ordered the wrong controller solid state module because it sits just about 1/4" too proud , not allowing the cover to sit all the way down. It's all in the details and the OCD in me will be itching to fix it somehow. Hoping the module will work just the same. Still has to be all wired up but it's a start.

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I know you’ve spent a lot of time so far but I would recommend adding all the parts to one part of the box. The other being the lid. Wires from the PID to heatsink will need to be extra long so you can take the lid off to troubleshoot.

The box part you added the PID to I used as the base. Feet attached to bottom and all the components stuffed in there all wired up.

[dave 45-90]

Put a 40 amp scr on mine. No heat sink. Just thermal mastic. Stays pretty much at room temp. 1/16 din RTD controller. Autotune should be part of the configuration

[dearslayer]

I know you’ve spent a lot of time so far but I would recommend adding all the parts to one part of the box. The other being the lid. Wires from the PID to heatsink will need to be extra long so you can take the lid off to troubleshoot.

The box part you added the PID to I used as the base. Feet attached to bottom and all the components stuffed in there all wired up.

I'll have to take another look at it to see what I can do. I thought about the same thing after the fact regarding wiring it up and such, but by then it was too late. Everything in the one box would definitely simplify things and I may have a hard time with it if I don't switch it up somehow.

[dearslayer]

Wondering if a 16 gauge extension cord rated for 13 amps will suffice for this unit or does it have to be a 14 gauge rated for 15 amps?

[TjB101]

Wondering if a 16 gauge extension cord rated for 13 amps will suffice for this unit or does it have to be a 14 gauge rated for 15 amps?

Should be … primary fuse is a 10amp, right?

[dearslayer]

Yes I believe so.

[dearslayer]

I know you’ve spent a lot of time so far but I would recommend adding all the parts to one part of the box. The other being the lid. Wires from the PID to heatsink will need to be extra long so you can take the lid off to troubleshoot.

The box part you added the PID to I used as the base. Feet attached to bottom and all the components stuffed in there all wired up.

I decided to follow your advise and install all the components into the one half of the box to simplify the wiring as suggested. Good call. Thanks.

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[TjB101]

I decided to follow your advise and install all the components into the one half of the box to simplify the wiring as suggested. Good call. Thanks.

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PIA, I’m sure, but better in the long run. Some nice stickers on the new cover and your good.

[dearslayer]

PIA, I’m sure, but better in the long run. Some nice stickers on the new cover and your good.

Funny you suggest that because I was actually thinking the same thing.

[gwpercle]

OK, ignorance on full display - what's a PID?

I'm not sure ...something electronic you have to program .
I've been casting for over 50 years without one ... so I must not need one that badly ...
... at this late stage in my casting game I'll just keep on doing what I been doing ...it works just fine .
Why fix what isn't broke ...keeping things simple makes me happy .
Gary

[David2011]

I’ve been thinking about getting a PID for the luberisizers. Temp control there is more difficult than with my RCBS Pro Melt.

Like others, I’ve managed for 40 years without a PID on the furnace. That doesn’t mean I wouldn’t like one, though. After the sizer I might try one on the furnace.

[TjB101]

Funny you suggest that because I was actually thinking the same thing.

Did you get it fired up and run the Autotune?

[dearslayer]

No..not yet. I actually started to wire it up but realized I still have to cut the hole at the front for the TC socket which I'm still waiting on to be delivered sometime between Dec 16th and Jan 6th!!! I may just go ahead and try to finish wiring it this week. I did notice that the PID that I have is a little different from the one in the video from Johnny's reloading Bench. Mine only has 5 screws connections down each side at the back of the PID and Johnny's has 6 down each side. Not sure if there is any difference in the connection because of it. Will post photos shortly.

[dearslayer]

In Johnny's video he has the 2 TC wires at these connections so I put mine the same until confirmed otherwise.

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[HATCH]

Moderator Hatch sells very nice assembled units, including the probes. I don’t know if he ships out of the US, though.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/for...TCH-Automation

I do ship worldwide but typically its not cost effective as shipping is very costly outside the states.


On thermocouple hook up.

You have two wires. Typically a they have a red and a blue connector on them and they also have the same color stripes on them as well.
On the PID you will have a - sign and a + sign under thermocouple connection.

The red connector goes to the + sign and the blue goes to the - sign.
Don't worry about this too much as it will not damage the unit if hooked up incorrectly.
What till happen is that it will read the temp backwards.
So typically you turn on the power to the PID.
The temp will read ambient. Grab the probe with your hand and hold it for a few mins.
The temp should go up slowly. If it goes down then most likely you have the wires hooked up backwards.

On fuses, to be totally honest I stopped using them in my builds.
I know this will get a lot of responses so I will explain.
The device you are controlling typically plugs into a standard 120v outlet.
The majority of those are controlled by a 15 amp circuit breaker in your electrical panel.
Having a 15 amp fuse is redundant and not needed.

The typical casting furnace (lee 4-20) pulls around 7 amps and it isn't fused so if you wanted to a 10 amp fuse would be a good safe measure but as I mentioned no needed.


The units I build have the following parts (for reference)

Golander 1/32 PID
Golander 25 amp SSR
8 ft or 10 ft extension cord
Car Alarm toggle switch - I only switch the PID power not the entire load.
150mm x 105mm x 55mm Enclosure
100mm K thermocouple probe with 3m cable

I don't use a heatsink because the SSR is mounted on a metal enclosure. I haven't had any issues.
I rate the units for 15 amps even though the SSR is 25.

Anyone that builds their own PID only needs to switch the power to the PID controller itself.
I do not recommend switching the entire load (pot or oven).
If the PID doesn't have power then the SSR will not have power either.
Which means no output.
In the crazy event that the SSR fails closed (in other words power is stuck on) then you can just unplug it.
I have been dealing with controls for over 25 years and have NEVER seen a SSR get stock on. I have seen plenty that either didn't pass voltage or passed a reduce amount of voltage.

If anyone has any build questions please send me a message and I will help you.