RepackboxMidSouth Shooters SupplyInline FabricationTitan Reloading
Reloading UKRotoMetals2Lee PrecisionADvertise here

Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: Mauser 98

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Southern Wisconsin
    Posts
    131

    Mauser 98

    Im in the process of building a mauser 98 sporter in .25-06. Ive done a few and with each one i try more techniques. This one i want to remove the crest on the top of the action. Im wondering what others have tried? Im not scoping it but instead want to solder some fancy open sights. Williams Gun Sights have some cool looking front and rear. Or maybe some Marble sights. But, at any rate, what are some options to remove or fill? Thanks for any thoughts.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master



    skeettx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Amarillo, Texas
    Posts
    3,853
    Do what you want
    BUT
    I think a crest on a mauser action is classy

    Mike
    NRA Benefactor 2004 USAF RET 1971-95

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master Texas by God's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    11,702
    If you are going to sweat iron sights on the barrel, why even mess with the crest on the reciever? Just curious- what country’s crest are you wanting to remove? Very careful filing and sanding, being super careful to retain the roundness of the action ring is all I can suggest. My opinion only as a 25-06 guy- got to have a scope!

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    2,983
    I agree with putting a scope on the rifle to get full advantage out of a 25-06.
    Now a .257 Roberts that I built was left with iron sights and worked perfect.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Southern Wisconsin
    Posts
    131
    Thanks all for replying. I dont know what crest but its a bit rough and scratched so id like to have a clean action top. Would the metal be too thin if i only removed the impression? How thick does the top front of a action need to be? Just trying to get as much info before i work the action metal in any way

  6. #6
    Boolit Master Jedman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Lenawee County , MI
    Posts
    968
    Sounds to me like it would be a lot of hand sanding. Take some quality 80 grit Emory cloth and tear or cut in to 3/4” wide strips and work it side to side over the crest carefully until it’s mostly removed. Then I would take a piece of sheet metal and try to find something about the same diameter as the receiver ring to bend the metal around to make a rounded form to glue some finer grit emory cloth to for polishing in the same direction the barrel runs. Sounds like your hands and fingers will be quite sore by time you get it done if your a older guy like me but I don’t see any way to do it with a power tool and keep it shaped properly.
    Maybe someone else has done it and has a easier way ?

    Jedman

  7. #7
    Boolit Master Ithaca Gunner's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Between two mountains
    Posts
    1,228
    Ever watch a shoe-shine boy work his cloth on a pair of Oxfords? Same technique with Emory cloth, only takes a lot longer! Then you have to re-blue it.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Las Cruces, NM
    Posts
    2,962
    The only caution I would offer when removing metal, at least if you want a nice smooth surface finish.

    Do not use the coarse stuff until the crest is gone. That leaves a bunch of deep scratch marks you then have to work on a lot to get rid of them. Stop with the coarse when you notice the 'bottom' of the crest is being touched. Then change to a finer grit. Depending on how smooth you want this, and how deep the crest is, you may have to reduce a few times. The last couple of grits work both directions as described by Jedman above. A good satin finish can be had with ~300grit. That is about right for a good soft solder joint as well.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    NC Arkansas
    Posts
    921
    The easy way is a simple jig and a surface grinder. The jig allows the action to rotate so that the grinder cuts the receiver parallel to the bore. Nearly as easy would be a lathe with tool post grinder.
    Spell check doesn't work in Chrome, so if something is spelled wrong, it's just a typo that I missed.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    4,417
    Are you going to lengthen the magazine well? I did a 98 once and converted to .30-06. The short 8mm original set up played the dickens on the longer .30-06 overall cartridge length when loading. Frustrated enough that I sold the rifle. Just a thought. That .25-06 is well worth some tinkering to make it right. Good luck.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    2,983
    I had to lengthen the magazine on a 98 rifle to use 30-06 and .35 Whelen.
    But even though the 25-06 used the same length case.
    I did not have to lengthen the front of the 98 magazine for shooting the 25-06.
    The smaller neck and lighter bullets on the 25-06 did not cause feeding problems.
    I even built a 25-06 on a Shorter Yugo 24/47 action.

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Homer, AK
    Posts
    246
    I use a mill bastard file followed by grit. But I don't normally do it. Can't tell you the number of '93-'16's I've seen done that way, usually with a Sears belt sander! There are probably a million '91 Argentines around with the crest rather savagely ground off. That amount of metal removal isn't a problem. Heck, there are guys that for some bizarre reason turn a large ring into a small ring.

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy alfadan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Augusta KS
    Posts
    231
    One thing I think is that if you sand deep enough, the softer metal below won't take bluing the same as the rest of the receiver.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
    TNsailorman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Northeast Tennessee Hills
    Posts
    2,022
    I like most of the old military crests as long as they are not those stupid communist hammer & sickle crest.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check