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Thread: Rust blueing problem

  1. #21
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    Looks good. The main takeaway, I think, is that different conditions/climate/humidity require the process to be tweeked a bit.
    You've done well....

    DG

  2. #22
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    I'm glad it worked out well for you. You now have a skill that will bring you personal rewards.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master oldhenry's Avatar
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    Everything was running smoothly & then I hit a snag

    After the Mossberg 152 & did a Mossberg 142-A (saving the 521T until I get even better). The 142-A is a bolt gun & I learned that the barrel on the 142-A is not a screw-on affair, but is a interference fit slip-on held in place by the lug that holds the takedown screw. I learned this by accident when a water leak occurred @ that joint. The 142-A blue job turned out well.

    I then came to own a Mossberg 340BB (do you notice that I have a Mossberg problem). This 340BB was factory fresh on the left side & rusty on the right (probably from improper storage near a water source).

    The 340BB has a slip-on barrel to receiver fit so I chose to separate them & blue separately. The receiver is slightly over 7" & fit in the small aluminum pan used for the small parts. I boiled the receiver 15 min. & after 4 treatments that receiver was beautiful.

    The barrel was done using my PVC tube for the boiled water. The 1st. treatment went OK. The 2nd. treatment had red rust streaks & I attributed that to water leaking from the muzzle plug. I corrected the muzzle plug & removed the red rust & the black deposits & tried again. This time (the 3rd) there was more red rust than black.

    I carded it and it as more of a grey look than black/blue. It doesn't look terrible, but isn't what I want.

    Question: why didn't that fe3 turn into fe4? Would a lighter coat of the browning/blueing solution bring about a better result?

    Is this a signal that I need to graduate to a metal tank so the boiling/heating time can be more concentrated & longer?

    Any help will be appreciated.
    Henry

    Since the pan used for small parts is aluminum and it works well, I was thinking of 1/8" alum. for the larger tank.
    Last edited by oldhenry; 05-23-2022 at 12:28 AM.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldhenry View Post
    After the Mossberg 152 & did a Mossberg 142-A (saving the 521T until I get even better). The 142-A is a bolt gun & I learned that the barrel on the 142-A is not a screw-on affair, but is a interference fit slip-on held in place by the lug that holds the takedown screw. I learned this by accident when a water leak occurred @ that joint. The 142-A blue job turned out well.

    I then came to own a Mossberg 340BB (do you notice that I have a Mossberg problem). This 340BB was factory fresh on the left side & rusty on the right (probably from improper storage near a water source).

    The 340BB has a slip-on barrel to receiver fit so I chose to separate them & blue separately. The receiver is slightly over 7" & fit in the small aluminum pan used for the small parts. I boiled the receiver 15 min. & after 4 treatments that receiver was beautiful.

    The barrel was done using my PVC tube for the boiled water. The 1st. treatment went OK. The 2nd. treatment had red rust streaks & I attributed that to water leaking from the muzzle plug. I corrected the muzzle plug & removed the red rust & the black deposits & tried again. This time (the 3rd) there was more red rust than black.

    I carded it and it as more of a grey look than black/blue. It doesn't look terrible, but isn't what I want.

    Question: why didn't that fe3 turn into fe4? Would a lighter coat of the browning/blueing solution bring about a better result?

    Is this a signal that I need to graduate to a metal tank so the boiling/heating time can be more concentrated & longer?

    Any help will be appreciated.
    Henry

    Since the pan used for small parts is aluminum and it works well, I was thinking of 1/8" alum. for the larger tank.
    I'm not sure why you are getting the red rust, unless you are leaving it to cool in the tube. You do need to boil longer, 25 minutes for boiling, 20 minutes if steaming. I usually need to do a half dozen cycles to get a good blue job. When you apply the chemical, just a wipe with a saturated cotton ball does the trick. You don't want a soaking wet surface. No need to plug the bore, may even be detrimental, and contribute to your problem.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  5. #25
    Boolit Master oldhenry's Avatar
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    waksupi,

    Thanks for the response. Good news about plugging the bore not needed.

    My PVC tube is a horizontal set-up with one end (about 12") open for about 1/2 circumference to enter the barrel/action. I pour boiling water in, but it cools in a few minutes. I remove the barrel when the water is cool enough to not burn my hand. In hindsight I can see that a vertical PVC system with a removeable top cap would be better @ slowing the cooling.

    I talked to a sheet metal shop today about braking 1/8" aluminum for a 34"L x 4"W x6"H tank. I can TIG the ends. They'll call with a quote tomorrow. I think this may solve my problem. I also plan to be less liberal with the browning/blue solution.

    Once again, thanks for your input.

    Henry

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldhenry View Post
    waksupi,

    Thanks for the response. Good news about plugging the bore not needed.

    My PVC tube is a horizontal set-up with one end (about 12") open for about 1/2 circumference to enter the barrel/action. I pour boiling water in, but it cools in a few minutes. I remove the barrel when the water is cool enough to not burn my hand. In hindsight I can see that a vertical PVC system with a removeable top cap would be better @ slowing the cooling.

    I talked to a sheet metal shop today about braking 1/8" aluminum for a 34"L x 4"W x6"H tank. I can TIG the ends. They'll call with a quote tomorrow. I think this may solve my problem. I also plan to be less liberal with the browning/blue solution.

    Once again, thanks for your input.

    Henry
    You aren't getting it nearly hot enough with your method. Use a vertical tube, stove pipe works well. Sit it in a pan of boiling water, and keep it boiling for 20 minutes, at least. Get some welding gloves or similar and remove the metal from the tube while is is still super heated. All moisture will dry immediately.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by bangerjim View Post
    800 grit is pretty course for metal finishing.

    I use up to 6000 grit wet-n-dry paper for the final finish. Or the finest diamond dust you can find on a wet rag.

    banger
    HUH? Never worked in a bluing shop eh?

  8. #28
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    For rust blueing do not go to fine in the polish as it will not work very well. 360 is the finest I would try.

    Hot caustic go ahead and polish as high as you want 800,2000, or higher but takes good eyes to see the diff.

    But that is me. I only blued 10-20K barrels for a few manufacturers.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master oldhenry's Avatar
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    I took the dive. I NOW HAVE A TANK

    After Waksupi gave me the valuable advise about the 25 minute boil I decided I was going to have a tank.

    With inflation & supply problems 1/8" aluminum is scarce. but I lucked up on a 48"X14" scrap for $42.00. Another $10.00 to have it bent (braked?) to 36"longX4.75highX4.50W. Welding cost $50.00: $102. total. 2 single burner
    cooker heaters @ $50.00 ea. totals $202.00. I already had 2 propane tanks.

    The 2 attached photos show the set-up.

    The results:
    The upper L. photo is the Mossberg 320BB. (I refinished stock while I had it disassembled)
    The upper R. photo tank (side)
    The middle L. photo tank (top)
    The middle R. is 521T B/A
    The lower is another view of Mossberg 320BB


    A special thanks to Waksupi for the 25 min. boil tip & to Geeser in NH for the tip on not going too fine with the grit (I'm a confirmed 320 grit man now)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails MVC-027F.JPG   MVC-021F.JPG   MVC-020F.JPG   MVC-025F.JPG   MVC-026F.JPG  


  10. #30
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    Hi,
    To get your Damp Box working for you...

    You want an 80/80, for humidity and temp, that seemed to give me the best results...

    You can go to a Pet Store and buy the combo meters there for reptiles.

    Not that expensive and lets you "dial" it in.

    I also use a 60W light at the top of the box to keep wet humidity from forming. (gives spots)

    If you can get your Box working efficiently, you can do 3 cycles a day and be done in 2 days.

    Just my experience, and what works for me but the lizard, temp/humidity Gauge, will give the info.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails qw1-3095884444.jpeg  
    “If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude better than the animating contest of freedom, go home from us in peace.
    We ask not your counsels or arms.
    Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you.
    May your chains set lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that ye were our countrymen.” -Samuel Adams
    Janet Reno, killed more children at Waco, with Bill Clinton's permission, than Adam Lanza killed, at Sandy Hook.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master oldhenry's Avatar
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    Seagiant,
    Thanks for the information.
    Regards,
    Henry

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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
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