Well, the title says it all. I want a rifle to launch .45 caliber cast boolits down range. The Marlin lever guns have gotten so expensive, I'm considering a .458 x 2 and using one of my Mauser actions. Any help would be appreciated.
Well, the title says it all. I want a rifle to launch .45 caliber cast boolits down range. The Marlin lever guns have gotten so expensive, I'm considering a .458 x 2 and using one of my Mauser actions. Any help would be appreciated.
Pretty much any good TIG welder can do the job. If you can't find anyone else, I can put you in touch with John King.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
Dan Armstrong in Alaska has a great reputation, and fast turn around. accu-tig.com. Don't know if he works on mausers or not, but he answers emails.
This is a chancy-suggestion only. A friend (named Ed) got his bolt (.257 Roberts rifle) "frozen in place" from what we at range at the time reckoned was a double-charge handload. Ed used the "8-pound sledgehammer repair" -- really, perhaps, just a decent-sized ball pean hammer -- but broke the bolt clean off. However, with the help of a local gunsmith got the bolt out.
Bion, they used SILVER SOLDER to reaffix the bolt handle, and Jack -- the gunsmith -- told Ed that as long as doesn't do another double charge he should be OK. As far as I know... the silver solder held!
If it were me -- I'd give that a try...THEN -- if it fails -- seek a weld.
BEST wishes!
geo
The OP has a Mauser. Normally you use a bending fixture to bend the existing handle or cut the existing handle off and weld on a replacement with a commercial more appealing design. Bolt guns like the Remington 700 and numerous others are silver soldered on originally and silver solder is normally how they are repaired or replaced. Some do offer tig welding on 700 bolt handles.
I have seen and repaired lots of silver soldered bolt handles that have failed but I have never seen nor heard of a Mauser forged handle breaking. I have seen them bent but never broken with the exception of one that had been cut and rewelded with insufficient penetration.
Last edited by M-Tecs; 11-08-2021 at 08:26 PM.
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This guy does good work. He has bent and reformed several Mauser bolts for me.
https://www.jimrtheboltman.com/
Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.
On Mausers I usually cut the bolt off and turn it over then weld it back on at the proper angle. I have forged a few but they end up a bit shorter than I like. The frame will need to be notched and stock cut to clear the bolt handle. After the bolt handle is welded back on the bolt goes in the mill and the handle is machined to give a nice curve.
Why not just do it right the first time? As for silver solder for attaching bolt handles, if that is what Remington uses, A friend had the handle come off a Remington while cycling the bolt in Rapid Fire stage of a High Power match.Bion, they used SILVER SOLDER to reaffix the bolt handle, and Jack -- the gunsmith -- told Ed that as long as doesn't do another double charge he should be OK. As far as I know... the silver solder held!
If it were me -- I'd give that a try...THEN -- if it fails -- seek a weld.
BEST wishes!
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No thanks, I will take YIG!
Since both the Army & Marines seem to utilize remmy's M24/M40 with soldiered bolt handles without many complaints of broken handles...( And lord knows,, a typical SF trooper or Marine could break a steel ball with a rubber hammer)
So I think it might just be good enough for me....
I have had a few Remington bolts come in with the handle off. Seems they didn't get a good bond to start with. Someplace in my pile of fixtures I made a clamp for holding them in place to silver solder them back on. Probably only had about half a dozen in over 20 years so most of them must be attached good.
"I Make the part.............................that makes the parts"
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http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...Red-River-Rick
Simple, yet elegant. Great looking jig.
The welded bolt handle always has more elegant "sweep".
I HATE auto-correct
Happiness is a Warm GUN & more ammo to shoot in it.
My Experience and My Opinion, are just that, Mine.
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With a Mouser, I go with a bolt bending jig, a heat sink and scale prevention paste, an acetylene heating torch. I just reshape the knob to a tear drop shape using a die grinder and then drill to hollow the knob end, polish. I have done dozens of these in one day and it is a very quick and simple process. I high polish my bolts, bolt handles, extractors (500-600 grit does not rust w a little oil) and usually do jeweling or engine turning also.
For me, the cutting, welding, shaping and polishing, refinishng, etc. is way too much sugar for a dime.
“There is a remedy for all things, save death.“
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Roger’s Rangers
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But Army and Matines do not shoot their M40s rapid fire. In fact few rifleman today can properly shoot a bolt action rifle rapid fire, as required in the High Power Match Rapid Fire stage. Most rifleman who must have short actions because "they are faster" cannot cycle the bolt without taking the rifle from the shoulder to manipulate to manipulate the bolt. So much for speed!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |