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Thread: Extending the threaded length of a barrel

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Extending the threaded length of a barrel

    I have a Savage large shank barrel, 1.120. The threaded section of the barrel is about 1.3 inches long. For a number of reasons I need it to be about 1.5 inches long. Can I extend, cut, these threads by hand using a 1 1/8-20 UN die and 2 1/2 handle? I have access to them for free. Or is taking it to a gunsmith and using a lathe required? Any helpful advice would be greatly appreciated.
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  2. #2
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    I'd encourage taking it to a gunsmith.

    I'm not a gunsmith, or a machinist, but there might be a little more going on than just cutting threads.
    Such as headspace concerns.
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  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Savage barrels use a barrel nut system to set and adjust the headspace. It's not a concern. I routinely switch barrels on Savage actions using the appropriate set of Go, No-Go gauges, an action vise, and a barrel wrench. What's I'm asking would have no effect on setting the headspace.
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  4. #4
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    No reason why the hand turned wrench shouldn't work.
    But I'd be extra careful about turning it about 1/8th of a turn, back it off, blow out the chips, oil, and turn another 1/8th turn & so on.

    Not on a rifle barrel, but other projects:
    I've seen guys that hadn't done it much try and run the die on like it was a big wing nut and screw up the threads,
    and/or knock a piece out of the die when chips rolled in under it.

    Or mess up a project when the die had a front, and a back. The first thread or two cuts shallower than the back one.
    They'd run it backwards and mess up the cutting and sometimes break the die.
    Last edited by Winger Ed.; 11-09-2021 at 04:22 AM.
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  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    I was thinking of using a spit adjustable die so I didn't have to cut the threads in one pass. Here is a picture of a die that I think does that.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails die.jpg  
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  6. #6
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    I've never used one like that myself.
    I'm sure they got it all figured out, but I'm just not comfortable with them on something as important as a rifle barrel.

    We better wait until morning when some of the gu-rus get up & about.
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  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

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    You need to make sure the shoulder is back far enough to get where you need, you may have to turn it back in a lathe. The die will work fine but one thing is opening a split die up will allow for some misalignment between the old and new thread. Set it t just touch the old thread no wiggle or play but still spins easily. Use plenty of a good cutting oil. turn 1/4 turn back up to break chip and repeat to depth Have the barrel held solidly and square. A wax type cutting fluid hangs better here. Anchor lube is a thick very good cutting fluid, works good with stainless and carbon steels, hangs well,and if you e-mail the company they will send you a small bottle to test free of charge. the problem is once you use it awhile you will want more. I clear chips with a small brush, an air hose removes the fluid also and this can cause problems. Work slow and steady dont let chips buildup, keep lubed and all should be good.

    we had split dies set up .015 large but these were used when cutting the whole thread then the finisher die was used the full length. the extra play on a opened up die allows it to push back when the new thread starts and may not clean up completely with the finish setting. If you can check the die by cutting a thread with it and checking with mikes thread wires or the nut, before doing the barrel.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master Rapier's Avatar
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    Just have it threaded by a smith, so it is done correctly on a lathe.
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  9. #9
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    The die is set up so that each tooth on the die (or at least each set of teeth) cuts a little deeper than the previous one so there shouldn't be any need to open up the die. This may or may not also cause you a problem in that the final couple threads (farthest from the end of the barrel) will not be full depth so cannot be used for the thread. There are ways to work around this if it is a problem.

    I would think that adding .2" of thread to an existing thread could be done fine with a die. Picking up the existing thread on a lathe could certainly be done but may not be the best choice.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    I secured the barrel in a soft jaw vise. Then ran it on a shot out barrel and I haven't been able to cross-thread it...and I tried. With this die, I open it up a bit using the set screw and thread it on, cutting nothing. I ran the die back and forth gradually cutting the required number of threads but very shallow. I then back out the set screw and repeat until the thread depth matches the original. I made liberal use of cutting oil.

    The new threads match the original and the barrel nut moves seamlessly all the way up and down without any noticeable difference in the threads I cut and the factory cut threads.

    I was surprised at how easily the threads were cut. That die is sharp and I mean really sharp. I didn't notice any difference in the way it cut from the beginning to the end.
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  11. #11
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by AbitNutz View Post
    I secured the barrel in a soft jaw vise. Then ran it on a shot out barrel and I haven't been able to cross-thread it...and I tried. With this die, I open it up a bit using the set screw and thread it on, cutting nothing. I ran the die back and forth gradually cutting the required number of threads but very shallow. I then back out the set screw and repeat until the thread depth matches the original. I made liberal use of cutting oil.

    The new threads match the original and the barrel nut moves seamlessly all the way up and down without any noticeable difference in the threads I cut and the factory cut threads.

    I was surprised at how easily the threads were cut. That die is sharp and I mean really sharp. I didn't notice any difference in the way it cut from the beginning to the end.
    Thanks for the update! I didn’t think a tap handle would have enough torque to cut them!
    I guess it helps that they are fine threads and not as deep as a coarser pitch!
    Glad to hear that it worked well for you!

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