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Thread: Trick for removing factory lettering on hulls

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold hondamikek's Avatar
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    Trick for removing factory lettering on hulls

    If any of you are like me, I much prefer my hulls to be free of writing on em.. and I’ve tried everything from brake cleaner to denatured alcohol to cleanly get rid of the factory printed stuff on the hull. Some work, some dont. But today I figured out what DOES work, every time. Tried on a few diff manufacturers as well and by god, I’m happy with it. Mr.Clean Magic Eraser dipped in water. Cut one of those sponges into small pieces and you’ll have plenty of use from em. Hope this helps someone! Cheers.

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    Lacquer Thinner.....
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    Laq. thinner is good, carburater cleaner is a little stronger.
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  4. #4
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    W.R.Buchanan's Avatar
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    Acetone!

    Randy
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  5. #5
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    TNsailorman's Avatar
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    I don't think I would use acetone on plastic shells. I worked in a plastic making operation and that is what we used to melt plastic. james

  6. #6
    Boolit Master Cap'n Morgan's Avatar
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    Just have the (loaded) shells roaming around in your pocket for a period!
    Back in the good ol' lead days, I shot Winchester compression formed hulls with #4 shot and also size #0 for geese and fox.
    After a number of outings I had trouble telling which size was what, as the printing quickly became illegible.

    I would think a trip through the washing machine, maybe inside an old pillowcase, should remove most traces of printing from the hulls. If not, they'll at least be clean and shiny
    Cap'n Morgan

  7. #7
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    The printing on AA's doesn't come off in the wash. I have old style AA's I have reloaded 8-10 times and the lettering is still there. They have been thru a washing machine about 5 times to clean them up. I am currently loading them for One Way trips to places where I can't retrieve them. They are pretty much used up anyway.

    Randy
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  8. #8
    Boolit Bub
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    I don't have much to share very often, but this one I can help. I've used a little polish with some OOOO steel wool. I guess it has much the same effect as being carried in the pocket for a while.. I hope this helps.

  9. #9
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    Eddie Southgate's Avatar
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    That's handy to know since I have a lifetime supply of Magic Erasers. That said , I never worried about what's printed on the cases .
    Grumpy Old Man With A Gun....... Do Not Touch !!

  10. #10
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    My hull are rage pick ups. Sometimes i will load with something different than the factory loads written on the hulls. That’s the Only time I worry about what’s written on the hulls. I try and match the writing on the hulls to what I’m loading, but sometimes doesn’t happen. Good tip on the magic erasers I find more and more uses for those things. Oh, I’d be a little concerned about using acetone and or lack of thinners don’t know for sure about the thinners, but I know when I use a lot of it ., it would soften some plastic. Acetone willcertainly soften up some plastic. I understand if you damp it a rag with acetone it and wipe the Writing off I don’t see that causing a problem, but somebody is going to pour acetone on the hulls leavie it sit for a while and then wiping them off. I think that’s a bad idea.
    Long, Wide, Deep, and Without Hesitation!

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    I roll crimp with a card wad and write the shot size on the card with a ultra fine point Sharpie.

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy kootne's Avatar
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    Use a fine tip Sharpie, write the shot size on the primer. Or what I do with the shells that rattle around in my truck for years; On the head of the case, a big "D" for duck (steel), "T" for turkey (#5), "G" for grouse (#7.5).

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Acetone dissolves ABS/styrene.

    I think hulls are made of HDPE. Same chemistry as ziplock bags. Acetone should be fine.

    Lacquer thinner can be a lot of things. I have a can from the store and the ingredients is literally mineral spirits. That's it. 100% mineral spirits. I have a can of "environmentally friendly mineral spirits," and the ingredients are 95% water and 5% soap.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check