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Thread: Superzilla???

  1. #1
    Boolit Master hoodat's Avatar
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    Superzilla???

    Has anyone tried this latest miracle? TV commercial makes it look great for penetrating/dissolving rust, stuck bolts etc.

    I'd like to hear from someone who has tried it before I jump. jd
    It seems that people who do almost nothing, often complain loudly when it's time to do it.

  2. #2
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    Superzilla, "a green wonder product"
    That pretty much tells me all I need to know.

    I looked at their website, there is a sunflower field in the header...sunflower oil?
    MSDS gave me no clues about what's in it.

    at the bottom of the web page it says,
    Superzilla is not recommended for guns. For guns we recommend Gunzilla which is the “gold standard” for cleaning, lubricating, and protecting (CLP) guns. In combat Gunzilla reduced total weapon malfunctions by 75% or more and it is considered a life saving product by U.S. troops. Gunzilla is also made from plants with a non-hazardous and low odor formula. At TopDuck we make life saving and life changing products.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Apologies to the original poster of this information, but I am a true believer in this!!
    I personally have used 99% alcohol in place of the acetone, but it works on incredibly corroded / oxidized / rusted in pieces. I use a 3:1 ATF to alcohol for general soaking, but increase the alcohol when wanting extra "creep".

    Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    Boolit Master hoodat's Avatar
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    I certainly don't mind your posting of the above info. One of the reasons that I'm interested in this "zilla" product is for the penetrating properties advertised. (exhaust manifold bolts on 68 Ford V-8) Now I'm also interested in your mix of acetone/ATF.

    The Superzilla comercial I saw showed the stuff pretty much dissolving rust, leading me to believe that it may contain sump thin such as phosphoric acid or such. jd
    Last edited by hoodat; 02-05-2022 at 09:04 PM.
    It seems that people who do almost nothing, often complain loudly when it's time to do it.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoodat View Post
    I certainly don't mind your posting of the above info. One of the reasons that I'm interested in this "villa" product is for the penetrating properties advertised. (exhaust manifold bolts on 68 Ford V-8) Now I'm also interested in your mix of acetone/ATF.

    The Superzilla comercial I saw showed the stuff pretty much dissolving rust, leading me to believe that it may contain sump thin such as phosphoric acid or such. jd
    I think all of the products propose seemingly impossible tasks that they can accomplish. I just used the aforementioned mixture on bolts (wire brushed the exposed threads extensively)in the bottom of a cattle chute on Wednesday. The nuts came off yesterday with effort - but they came off.
    Manure+metal in my experience = frozen beyond frozen and a torch +/- a cold chisel is the norm - with rebuilding the whole floor being an expected course of events.
    I'm sure that the product you mentioned is good! But the fellas that did the study I posted do it for a living.

    Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

  6. #6
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    W.R.Buchanan's Avatar
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    For penetrating oils that will be used along with heat like on your manifolds Kriol is the gold standard. I have used it extensively when I worked a a Millwright in the late 70's and 80's. it penetrates better than anything I have ever used and I jsut happen to have a can of Superzilla and Gunzilla that were given out as samples at the SHOT Show a couple of years ago. I have used both and they both work OK however the only thing they have going for them over Kroil is the smell. When you heat Kroil it gets pretty potent but all is forgiven when your bolts break loose.

    For lubrication the best thing I have used and now use on all my guns where oil is appropriate is

    "Amsoil 20-50 "Racing Oil!"

    I use it on all my machines in my shop including my Air Compressors. It coats the inside of the tank and they never rust out. Been using it for 40 years in my compressors. Never had one wear out or tank fail. 1 qt. will last a life time for most people.

    Randy
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    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

    gwpercle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoodat View Post
    I certainly don't mind your posting of the above info. One of the reasons that I'm interested in this "zilla" product is for the penetrating properties advertised. (exhaust manifold bolts on 68 Ford V-8) Now I'm also interested in your mix of acetone/ATF.

    The Superzilla comercial I saw showed the stuff pretty much dissolving rust, leading me to believe that it may contain sump thin such as phosphoric acid or such. jd
    The absolute best penetrating rusty bolts oil is a 50-50 mix of Acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid . I read the results when it was tested against all major brands of rust penetrating oils ... and acetone - ATF beat them all !
    Try it just once and see , I keep a big bottle mixed up ... it's the best !
    Don't use synthetic ATF use regular GM ...it mixes with the acetone .
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master


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    As a self proclaimed "rust belt mechanic", I can say in that all my years wrenching on cars that not a single time has penetrating oil ever broken an honestly stuck fastener loose for me. If a nut or bolt is really rusted on there, no penetrating oil will get into the threads, it simply will not happen, even if you spray it every day for a week. When you finally get them off, they are dry as a bone. The only time penetrating oil can work is when you could have got it off without it anyway.

    There's only 3 surefire ways to get something off a rust belt car or truck. #1 impact, #2 heat, or #3 cut it off. I do use penetrating oil, but its only purpose is to soften the rust, and lubricate the nut or bolt, otherwise you will often gall the threads taking it off.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy

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    I remember several years ago someone did an exsentive test on Rust Busters. He rusted a bunch of 1/2 in bolts and nuts. Tested the torque to break loose from dry=WD40= PB blaster and so on. The 50/50 mixture of acetone/ ATF beat all hands down. If I went to the truck shop I used to work at, they have a copy in the tool crib..... GW

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    If you don't need to use this at least a few times a year - you're likely not dealing with truly stuck threads. (No, mine aren't this shiny and new)

    Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

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