I have some 10 year old 2# blocks that have been sitting on a shelf for at least 10 years. The color is a faded yellow to white color now. Is it still good for lube making. What effect does age have?
I have some 10 year old 2# blocks that have been sitting on a shelf for at least 10 years. The color is a faded yellow to white color now. Is it still good for lube making. What effect does age have?
I have some at least 5-6 yo and its fine. Cant see any difference from when i first got it.
"The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government..... When the people fear their government there is tyranny, when the government fears the people, there is liberty." Thomas Jefferson
About 6 years ago, I bought some "vintage" beeswax from a fellow member here. 2" thick chunks and were white on outside, but yellow on inside. The seller said these chunks had been in a unheated farm shed for decades...maybe since the 1960s?
It works just fine in boolit Lube. When I melted this old stuff, it still had a hint of the honey smell.
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It's a scientific fact that older beeswax works more better. Proven by the FDA and the DOT and documented somewhere in the Library of Congress by scientists. Apparently 9 out of 10 of the scientists agreed on the analysis so there it is.
From what I understand bees wax like honey dosen't deteriorate with age.
That is my understanding too. Just try to keep it clean, and if it does get dirty, melt and strain and be more careful next time.
It's just fine to use . I have some refined beeswax I bought in 1973 ... that's 48 years old , it has been kept in the cardboard box it came in ... still the same medium brown color , no fading ...
I bought un-bleached beeswax ... the bleached stuff was very light , nearly white color ... the un-bleached was the color of natural honey comb ... a medium dark brown .
It has not darkened , lightened or dried out over the last 48 years ... I still use it for fluxing and when making Lithi-Bee lube .
Gary
Certified Cajun
Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
" Let's Go Brandon !"
I have some old bees wax it is over 20 years old I think and it still looks the same as if I got it and smell the same as one that you just got . Like stated that it will last as long as you take care of it from the elements.
Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA
The capping are yellow / white colour.
The bit that seals the honey into the combs.
The darker brown wax is from the combs themselves as they get used for many cycles thou the separators.
You can make brown wax /white by running it through a solar melter and which leaves the the brown bits behind.
In fact there could even be beneficial properties in it.
One would have to ask a bee keeper that one as I have forgotten.
There shouldn’t be any problems with it. With the prices for it today, you are lucky you have some.
Regards
John
no its no good for lube use . send it to me.
14th VA. CAV.
N_SSA
One of the things that I bought when I started casting around 12yrs ago was some really nice, maybe 2" ingots. I think I am on my first one, for fluxing. They have been really sealed up and, like new, I am certain. One day I may use for lube which I thought would be, immediately necessary.
I've used beeswax 55 years old. Could see no difference between that or fresh.
Beeswax goes back to Egyptian Pharos and embalming or mummification, so the properties of bees wax last for eons.
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I go through the candles at the thrift store and have some nice ones. Sometimes I sniff one and look like a little girly looking for something nice smelling.
I did that "Dollar Tree candle smell check" just a couple of days back. After being careful that no one watched toxic manly me doing it of course!
I've long mixed assorted waxes and oils for both bullet and case sizing lubes. I don't know or care if they help anything but I know for sure that in the modest quantities I use them they won't hurt anything. I like to use inexpensive scented candles as a hardening additive to my reloading lubes simply because they are clean and smell nice.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |