A lot of crafters like the naturally grey look for picture frames and the like. Just the time to take them apart and advertising that you have them. Just a thought to get rid of some of the extra that you do not need.
gmsharps
If mitered joints, I would just cut at start of miter, burn the small square left, picking the staples or screws out of the ashes. I actually look around and see if you could find a used Jet or other brand abrasive belt sander, Drum over a moving table. They may be more than $400, but I've seen them that cheap. 80 grit paper, ( not as coarse as you think on this machine) would remove a few thousandths on each of the flat sides, the short sides you would remove when you machine to whatever width you need. Planer will work, but will remove more wood.
But get the wood if you can store dry. indoors. It most probably was kiln dried as it touched corrugated and would have stained the glass.
30 inch pieces are plenty long enough for a lot of things
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Lowes is selling unfinished oak lumber for over $20 BF.
I would take it.
And, for what it's worth, that grey is the natural oxidation color of the oak. It is stable and won't penetrate far.
Wayne the Shrink
There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!
Jon, grab it, all of it. And the next time your truck is heading anywhere close to Minny-Sota bring the white oak along. I'll be your best buddy forever.
Ken
LOL, thanks Ken. If there isn't most of a 48ft flatbed of oak boards I'll be surprised. The frames are not nailed. No nails on something that goes on top of food grade containers. The corners are joined with AS-20 truss plates. Each frame has 8, 2 for each corner. I cut a bunch off and burned them in the firepit to get the oak out so now I have a giant pile of good truss plates to go along with the oak boards.
I should have known that this bunch of enablers would tell me to buy a planer and get to work. Now, to sneak it past the wife.....
I Am Descended From Men Who Would Not Be Ruled
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Whether you run it through your planer or a rented one, borrow a metal detector and check for unseen staples, nails, etc. My experience is when you get into a project like this you always miss at least one nail, which is all it would take to damage a planer blade.
Glad to be of help JonP, But it will be nice to have a stash of hardwood to work with.
It most probably was kiln dried
Handloader109, all of the wood is stamped 'kiln dried" per specs for import/export
I Am Descended From Men Who Would Not Be Ruled
Fiat Justitia, Ruat Caelum
FWIW- a light pass with a pressure washer will get rid of the oxidation look . Have done so with old wood lawn chairs and refinished .
Investing in a wood planer is not a bad idea. There are many uses for a planer in a workshop. My dad at one time had 4 in his woodworking shop. The one he used the most was a Dewalt. He had a large floor model 12-15" 220 volt for the large stuff. Most wood working projects do not require 3/4" material. You can always buy the longer boards when needed but you can make lots of things out of 2-3ft stuff.
You could glue up raised panels and cover a entire wall or something.
Just be careful of nails and other hidden pieces of steel.
I would love to have a pile of that for small projects!
Jon, Mary lives just down the road from me, throw a few more boards on that truck.
I love red oak, my kitchen is all red oak, bathroom vanity is red oak, my computer/radio desk is red oak... and I need to build a custom mirror/shelf unit for the bathroom above the vanity, none of the commercial ones fit the space well.
I Am Descended From Men Who Would Not Be Ruled
Fiat Justitia, Ruat Caelum
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
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HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
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