WidenersInline FabricationRepackboxTitan Reloading
Reloading EverythingLoad DataMidSouth Shooters SupplyLee Precision
Snyders Jerky RotoMetals2
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 60

Thread: How Hard is it to Cut a Reloading Die

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy

    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    Redwood City, CA
    Posts
    165

    How Hard is it to Cut a Reloading Die

    Noob question: I need to cut a reloading die to make a push through die for a project. I have a bandsaw from Little Machine Shop. Do I need a special blade? Can I cut a die without heating it?

    My goal is to get a cheap die off eBay and cut it. Probably a Lee.

    Thought I’d ask before ruining a blade.

    Thank you

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master
    bangerjim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    out of here, wandering somewhere in the SW.
    Posts
    10,163
    You did not mentioned the brand of die, just "probably Lee"

    Test: If a metal file skates across it's surface, your teeny little band saw will be of little use against hardened steel! If me, I would use one of my solid carbide slitting saw in my vertical milling machine.

    Test it and see.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy para45lda's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    LA - Lower Alabama
    Posts
    325
    I used an abrasive cutoff wheel in my chop saw
    If you're gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough.
    SASS 17373
    Proud Dad of a USAF Airman

  4. #4
    Moderator


    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Just outside Gun Barrel City, Texas
    Posts
    9,664
    They're harder than Chinese Algebra.

    You'll need something like a cut off wheel on a high speed grinder.
    One that spins up around 8,000 rpm or so.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy

    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    Redwood City, CA
    Posts
    165
    Oh boy I’m glad I asked. Thanks guys!

  6. #6
    Banned
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    2,725
    What other kinds of tools do you have? If you can spin it (even very slowly) by attaching something to the axis then putting it in a drill you can cut it with an angle grinder or even a Dremel type tool with a cut off blade.
    Before I had a lathe, I would figure out ways of attaching larger diameter stuff to something to spin it in the drill. Even jamming a dowel in the hole will work if you don't spin it very fast.

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy

    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    Redwood City, CA
    Posts
    165
    That’s ingenuitive Traffer. I have a drill press. I also have a chop saw and a Milwaukee grinder that goes 8500. I think I’ll get a cutoff wheel for the chop saw first ($10), if that doesn’t work try the hand grinder and vise method.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master


    GregLaROCHE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Southern France by way of Interior Bush Alaska
    Posts
    5,293
    What are your plans for it after cutting it?

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy

    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    Redwood City, CA
    Posts
    165
    Quote Originally Posted by GregLaROCHE View Post
    What are your plans for it after cutting it?
    Greg - I got suggestions from another post to create a push through from a 30-30 to start the process and converting .40 S&W into 8mm Nambu. I’ll cut the die (at least try to), wet grind the burrs and marks (let’s see how that works) then get (as suggested) a lee bullet sizer “punch” or maybe try to have one made that pushes the 40SW through that gets close to the 30-30 diameter.

  10. #10
    Moderator


    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Just outside Gun Barrel City, Texas
    Posts
    9,664
    Quote Originally Posted by Rfeustel View Post
    a Milwaukee grinder that goes 8500.
    That would be my weapon of choice.

    However; If ya don't know already--- The wheels are very brittle. You'll want to dress accordingly.
    Heavy gloves, jacket, full face shield, and work around the die body without letting the disc go deeper than the outside wall thickness.

    A shattered 6" angle grinder disc is the only tool I've ever used that sent me to the Emergency Room.
    This isn't me, but I kept a similar picture in my shop to show the kids that wanted to borrow a angle grinder and disc--
    "to do something real quick", and didn't have time to put on safety equipment.

    That, and pointing at the 1/2 of a disc stuck in the shop's ceiling was always enough to show them the error of their ways.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails shattered disc_1g.jpg  
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy

    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    Redwood City, CA
    Posts
    165
    Holy Moly winger. Wow. Thank you for sharing that.

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,540
    What might get you thru is cut a ring around the die with the grinder about 1/8" deep this should get you thru the hardened case then use the saw. It wont remove the case inside but the blade will do better from the soft thru the hard.But slow the speed way down around 75 sfm and go slow. also try to keep 4-6 teeth in contact with the work.

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master Char-Gar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Deep South Texas
    Posts
    12,820
    Well, it depends. Depends on which die in a set and what make. I have chucked up many dies in my lath to modify them and this is what I have found. I am talking RCBS, Lyman and CH dies here.

    The sizing dies are quite hard but can be cut with a carbide bit. The others (expanding and seating) cut like butter.
    Last edited by Char-Gar; 10-20-2021 at 06:11 PM.
    Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    1,092
    I have cut a very hard die with a hacksaw and a Rem-Grit blade. It is a cable blade coated with carbide grit. Was very slow going,and left a wide kerf. Not sure if they are even made anymore.

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    334
    Second Gewehr-Guy's post. I used a Rem Grit rod blade in a hacksaw to crenelate a grade 8 nut that would eat cut off disc blades. It also trimmed a RCBS sizer die for another project. If you can find one, buy it

  16. #16
    Moderator


    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Just outside Gun Barrel City, Texas
    Posts
    9,664
    Quote Originally Posted by Rfeustel View Post
    Holy Moly winger. Wow. Thank you for sharing that.
    I tell everybody my stories of shattered wheels when ever I can fit them into the conversation.
    I hope it helps someone keep from getting hurt.

    The one that let go and stuck in my shop ceiling hit my leather jacket dead in my chest first,
    then climbed up, leaving a trench in my full face shield, then went on up and stuck in a 12' high sheet rock ceiling
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy
    BP Dave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Pacific NW
    Posts
    119
    To the OP, most dies I've cut are very hard all the way through. I don't think your saw will cut it and you could easily wreck a blade. I suggest some kind of abrasive wheel--angle grinder probably makes the most sense, but you could do it on a bench grinder. Third choice might be a Dremel with a cutoff blade. There are some dies I have encountered--might have been Hornady or maybe it was Lee--that had a hard surface but were much softer on the inside--you might be able to cut that on your saw after getting through the surface treatment.

    To Ed Winger--Ah geez. I always wear safety glasses, but I gotta get a full face shield. That photo's gonna haunt me.

  18. #18
    Moderator


    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Just outside Gun Barrel City, Texas
    Posts
    9,664
    Quote Originally Posted by BP Dave View Post
    To Ed Winger--Ah geez. I always wear safety glasses, but I gotta get a full face shield. That photo's gonna haunt me.
    Hmm,, You definitely don't want to do a quickie search for 'Angle grinder cut off wheel accidents',
    and then click 'images' up at the top.

    It shows cut off fingers, big giant gash/cuts, and a few guys getting loaded into helicopter ambulances.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  19. #19
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,540
    Always when mounting a new wheel hang it on a screw driver ans lightly tap it, if it rings your good a thud and the wheel is cracked throw it away or take it back. cutoff whelks are dangerous not just from the lack of thickness support but as the piece heats it pinches the sides of the wheel.

    A grinder injury is worse than a cut as the meat is removed and the heat seals the surface it can take a long time to heal be careful.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master

    fiberoptik's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Was Mid-Michigan, 2 Orlando, 2 Jacksonville, Fl.
    Posts
    1,369
    That picture hurts me just looking at it!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check