Inline FabricationReloading EverythingRotoMetals2Snyders Jerky
MidSouth Shooters SupplyRepackboxLoad DataLee Precision
Wideners Titan Reloading
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 22

Thread: Cooked brass?

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Oct 2021
    Posts
    8

    Cooked brass?

    Hi folks, new to the forum and seeking wisdom!

    I sonic cleaned a bunch of brass from last range session (45-70, 44m, 45acp and 6.5cm), rinsed under hot water then put in the oven 150 for a spell to dry. It's always worked fine but this time ... I forgot to take it out. Next day I put the oven on to heat up for dinner at 425 degrees. Oven heated up then after about 10 mins at 425 I went to put the dinner in. Oh joy, a baking sheet full of slightly discolored brass!

    So my question is, have I cooked it and need to scrap it? I've read that brass doesn't alter structurally until it passes 600 degrees but it all had that slight 'case hardened' look to it.

    I don't want to scrap a load of good brass but also don't want to deal with split cases and head separation deals.

    Any thoughts?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,886
    I can’t find the graph showing time vs temp, but I think you’re fine. Maybe take a case and try to crush the mouth in your fingers. If it crushes easily and has no rebound then it’s been over annealed, but again I doubt that you got there.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

    FLINTNFIRE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Longview, Washington
    Posts
    1,655
    Well never put brass on higher then 175-200 15 -20 minutes

  4. #4
    Banned

    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    South Texas
    Posts
    1,419
    Phil Sharpe used to cook off loaded cartridges in a paper bag but that’s a different story!

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Switzerland of Ohio
    Posts
    6,335
    Sources are all over the map on this. Best I can find with a quick search is that 475F is the not-to-exceed temperature.

    Here's the rub, in your case: While the thermostat in your oven may have been set for 425, the temperature of that brass may have gone considerably higher if it was exposed to direct radiation from a heating element.

    If it were me, I'd chuck it if it's discolored all the way to the base.
    Cognitive Dissident

  6. #6
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Oct 2021
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by JimB.. View Post
    I can’t find the graph showing time vs temp, but I think you’re fine. Maybe take a case and try to crush the mouth in your fingers. If it crushes easily and has no rebound then it’s been over annealed, but again I doubt that you got there.
    Thanks, Jim. I was thinking that if I resize and they act normal with some spring back I'd be ok. Guess there's no way to know if I'll risk head separation 'til it happens!

  7. #7
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Oct 2021
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by uscra112 View Post
    Sources are all over the map on this. Best I can find with a quick search is that 475F is the not-to-exceed temperature.

    Here's the rub, in your case: While the thermostat in your oven may have been set for 425, the temperature of that brass may have gone considerably higher if it was exposed to direct radiation from a heating element.

    If it were me, I'd chuck it if it's discolored all the way to the base.
    The voice of reason is never the one we want to hear! This is what I had in the back of my mind (though hadn't considered the direct heat from the element) but was looking for an excuse to ignore it, it's quite a lot of brass, good, expensive, once fired brass ..... damn it!

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,556
    The soak time worries me more than the temp. Also the whole case being exposed. annealing isnt just the temp its time also, a combination of the 2. The normal method of heating to 600-750* at the neck for just a few seconds allows the neck shoulder to soften before it gets to the base. A lower temp will do the same if a longer time but then the heat flows into the base.

    Its hard to check with out some special equipment. As the base is thick and solid for a small distance crushing wont tell a lot there.

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Switzerland of Ohio
    Posts
    6,335
    Good point. I should have qualified that the 475F figure that I posted assumes soak time much longer than the few seconds that results from typical flame annealing.
    Cognitive Dissident

  10. #10
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Oct 2021
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    The soak time worries me more than the temp. Also the whole case being exposed. annealing isnt just the temp its time also, a combination of the 2. The normal method of heating to 600-750* at the neck for just a few seconds allows the neck shoulder to soften before it gets to the base. A lower temp will do the same if a longer time but then the heat flows into the base.

    Its hard to check with out some special equipment. As the base is thick and solid for a small distance crushing wont tell a lot there.
    Thanks, I think I'm convinced. I've done far more stupid things in my life but that doesn't make me feel any better!

  11. #11
    Boolit Master 5Shot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Colbert, WA
    Posts
    722
    **Not relevent**
    Last edited by 5Shot; 10-20-2021 at 12:06 PM.
    If you live on the razor's edge and slip, you will die in two pieces

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,886
    Quote Originally Posted by 5Shot View Post
    According to this chart you are probably best to throw it out.

    https://hosting.photobucket.com/albu...psjo2qnwqc.gif
    Make sure that you’re reading the Fahrenheit temp line, I still think it’s fine.

  13. #13
    Super Moderator


    ShooterAZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Flagstaff, AZ
    Posts
    12,181
    I have done the exact same thing with a batch of 30-06 brass. It was fired multiple times, so I didn't feel too awful bad about scrapping it. Better safe than sorry is what I say. If it was discolored, I would definitely scrap it. Just my $.02...

  14. #14
    Boolit Master 5Shot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Colbert, WA
    Posts
    722
    Quote Originally Posted by JimB.. View Post
    Make sure that you’re reading the Fahrenheit temp line, I still think it’s fine.
    You know, I misread the OP regarding the amount of time it was in the oven. If it had been an hour, I would say to toss it for sure, but 10 minutes probably isn't much of an issue.
    If you live on the razor's edge and slip, you will die in two pieces

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    2,886
    Quote Originally Posted by 5Shot View Post
    You know, I misread the OP regarding the amount of time it was in the oven. If it had been an hour, I would say to toss it for sure, but 10 minutes probably isn't much of an issue.
    Agreed.

    Honestly, if I had plenty I’d scrap it, but if it was dear I’d load it.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    NC Arkansas
    Posts
    1,411
    If the neck retains some spring, I would at least try a few with light loads.
    Spell check doesn't work in Chrome, so if something is spelled wrong, it's just a typo that I missed.

  17. #17
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    46
    Why not do a light to med load and check for head expansion between a cooked case and normal case. If the same, then work up to a higher load.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master 243winxb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    2,844
    As the oven heated up, brass became scrap.

  19. #19
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Oct 2021
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by ulav8r View Post
    If the neck retains some spring, I would at least try a few with light loads.
    As JimB originally suggested, I did just that and on the 45-70 cases I can squish them to quite an oval mouth then they spring right back. I'm going to recreate my mistake and take a temp reading on a few pieces of brass just to see what actual temp they got to. Going by the info above, if they stayed below 500 I think I'm ok, especially as they still seem to have a lot of spring back.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master 243winxb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    2,844
    6.5 CM @ 62,000 PSI.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check