Lee mold alignment pin fell out

[badwolf]

Is there an easy fix to keep it in? Emailed lee they want it sent back and if under 2 yrs old they'll replace it, if older 1/2 price plus ship both ways. Bought it on the internet from who and when don't remember.

[Dusty Bannister]

Is this a 1, 2 or 6 cav mold? Is this the newer molds with the alignment pins or the older mold with the "V" block and pins pressed into the mold face? Just trying to avoid making the wrong suggestions.

[45DUDE]

I ran into this about 6 years ago. Lee sent me oversize pins and instructions at no charge. <They offered to fix it if I sent it back> The mold has to be hot and the pins cold and do it quick. It was a 2 cavity. I got the mold too hot to create the problem to start with. The slightly oversize pins fixed the mold. I put them in the freezer prior to installing. Lee is nice people to do business with.

[badwolf]

Newer 2 cavity mold with pins. I'll have to suggest that to them, they only offered replacement if i had the receipt.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I'd just stipple the pin and reinstall it, Probably do the cold-hot thing as 45DUDE suggests

[badwolf]

What do you mean by stipple? Take a punch to it?

[oley55]

What do you mean by stipple? Take a punch to it?

like knurling I'd guess, but aren't those pins awfully hard? If they aren't real hard try rolling the pins between two crosshatch files. Just a wee bit (hint) of displaced metal is all your after.

[country gent]

Shrink fir isnt hard to do if you have a hot plate handy. Put.the pins in the freezer with a pair of tweezers or needle nosed pliers the night before in a plastic bag/ the next day set the blocks on the hot plate and cover. Bring up to 450-500*s and let "soak for a short time. have both blocks and clamped in alignment. Once warmed thru get the pins and pliers out and use the pliers to set the pins in place, Having been in the freezer with the pins they wont warm the pins.Set pins with a small rod or punch point it should drop in to very close to right. At this point dont handle just let sit and temps normalize. You do have to work fast when doing this.

Since moulds normally run in the 400-3450* range red locktite may work also as its release temp is in the 600-700* range.

I doubt you will stipple the pins for a couple reasons 1) they are usually harder than the punch, you will just damage the punch. 2) they are very small and will be very hard to hold to punch. the other reason I dont care for stippling is when set in place they seat into aluminum when adjusted they score the surface. a better way would be to use a center punch or steel ball on the front and back edges of the hole with light taps from small hammer, this will raise the metal jut below the surface tightening the pin. But will leave a smooth surface.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

What do you mean by stipple? Take a punch to it?

like knurling I'd guess, but aren't those pins awfully hard? If they aren't real hard try rolling the pins between two crosshatch files. Just a wee bit (hint) of displaced metal is all your after.

It'll likely be ackward to use a punch, use whatever works to displace a wee bit of metal (as oley55 says).
I'd probably take a old worn out course rasp, lay the pin on it, tap pin gently with hammer, rotate and repeat. If the pin is real hard, I might incorporate a bench vice to the process.