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Thread: Getting started casting.

  1. #21
    Boolit Master VariableRecall's Avatar
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    From my smaller perspective as someone relatively new to both reloading and casting, I'd say it's very important to find a casting setup that works for you. It doesn't have to be fancy, just accommodating to your needs, comfortable to operate, safe, and stable. I wouldn't want to say you should go entirely on instinct, but just make sure that everything you set up is accessible and stable. For me, covering work surfaces in cardboard followed by dollar store aluminum pans. I don't really have space for dropping boolits into cold water but I've experienced no issues with just letting them all air cool.
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  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    might I add to your reading list
    right at top of this page that ive included a link to is a free download called from ingot to target, a cast bullet guide for hand gunners by glen fryxell
    its well worth the time reading

    http://www.lasc.us/ArticleIndex.htm

  3. #23
    Boolit Bub swingingblock2520's Avatar
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    Thanks guys,any book suggestions for reloading,casting,gunsmithing,shooting or any topics are always welcomed. Books are knowledge and you can put a numismatic value on education as far as I’m concerned.
    J.m Shrader

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master


    GregLaROCHE's Avatar
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    Before you start buying molds, you should slug your bore(s) to know the correct Boolit diameter you need. There are plenty of posts on how to slug your bore and calculate the correct boolit diameter. As Mr Wolf said, use the search engine.

  5. #25
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    RogerDat's Avatar
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    I find number of cavities requires balancing productivity against weight and fatigue while casting. Also what I'm feeding makes a difference as does how much I enjoy casting itself. I have a favorite 2 cavity iron mold. Casts a nice WC for a 38 special. Not hard to make plenty to feed a revolver. Autoloaders can be when it is really hard to keep up with a 1 & 2 cavity mold. Revolvers and bolt guns I don't think it matters as much about how many cavities the mold has. Finding the mold that gives good accuracy in your firearm is always a joy.

    Brass and iron molds are heavy compared to aluminum. Some such as MP or NOE make pretty high quality aluminum molds. Lee aluminum are inexpensive, functional but one can tell the difference in the heft and quality. The Lee 6 cavity I think are better built than their 2 cavity. More mass helps a mold maintains a consistent temp. It also makes the thing heavy.
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.

    Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.

    Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat

  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    About any elec melter will do, bottom pour is easier (your forge may become a pita). Use WAX to flux (clean your alloy) when pouring bullets. Sawdust is OK for melting ingots. One or two hole moulds for rifle, multiple for pistol is fine. Hot plate will get your mould up to proper casting temp. What size for your bullets and what kind of alloy (much of your stash may be unknown)? You will need an oversized case expander for cast bullets. Also flare case mouth. Post your cals. you load and you will get recommendations. Starting loads from a reliable source is good for most cast shooting. If you want to shoot rifle stuff fast, gas checked mould is needed. LLA, BLL are great general lubes (several recipes for alox/wax based lubes).
    Whatever!

  7. #27
    Boolit Bub swingingblock2520's Avatar
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    Greg,slugging bores & chamber casting is one of the first things I do when I get something new. It’s a practice I picked up early on when I got in to building and shooting vintage snipers,especially my old 91/30s, they can have quite a wide margin of bore variance.
    J.m Shrader

  8. #28
    Boolit Master VariableRecall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by popper View Post
    About any elec melter will do, bottom pour is easier (your forge may become a pita). Use WAX to flux (clean your alloy) when pouring bullets. Sawdust is OK for melting ingots. One or two hole moulds for rifle, multiple for pistol is fine. Hot plate will get your mould up to proper casting temp. What size for your bullets and what kind of alloy (much of your stash may be unknown)? You will need an oversized case expander for cast bullets. Also flare case mouth. Post your cals. you load and you will get recommendations. Starting loads from a reliable source is good for most cast shooting. If you want to shoot rifle stuff fast, gas checked mould is needed. LLA, BLL are great general lubes (several recipes for alox/wax based lubes).
    I personally use Gulf Wax for flux. Simple enough to get, and seems to me to do a good job. Also it doesn't smell unpleasant either.

  9. #29
    Boolit Bub swingingblock2520's Avatar
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    I’d like to cast for pistol rounds I shoot,9,40,357sig,38super&special,45gap,7.62tok,7. 65/30 Luger and when I build another breech loading Stevens I want to shoot cast in it as well as building a little .38 rook. I’ve been loading cast .30 Luger for my brothers pistol for some time but his source for cast 7.65 swc has passed on so I’ll need to cast for him as well.
    J.m Shrader

  10. #30
    Boolit Grand Master

    gwpercle's Avatar
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    There was some wise conversation about mould weight , a person's age / hand strength and fatigue and balancing it all (post #31) . I'm 70 now and age is rearing it's ugly head .
    All of my experience had been with 2 cavity Lee aluminum moulds and Lyman iron moulds .
    My first custom aluminum mould was a 4 cavity from NOE ...it's a lot heavier than two Lee moulds , in fact it's about as heavy as I can / care to use ... I don't have any hand problems ... I was a Draftsman who drew with pencil and pen for 48 years ...they work fine ... I'm 70 .
    But what I'm saying ... is don't buy a 4 cavity brass mould unless you have great hand / arm strength and no problems like rotator cuff or wrist joint problems .
    In fact the last 4 moulds I bought from NOE ... I got 3 cavity aluminum ... for two reasons , weight is less than 4 cavity ,I can cast / last longer and one ladle full of alloy will fill 3 cavities ... 4 cavity runs out on #4 so I have to fill ladle pour 2 , refill ladle and fill the other 2 . Faster just to cast three with one ladle full .
    So if you're buying a new mould ... consider your physical condition and mould weight ... brass moulds are heavy !
    hopefully we will all get older ... them Lee 1 and 2 cavity moulds are looking good again !
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  11. #31
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by swingingblock2520 View Post
    #3 should be in transit to me tomorrow,I scored a copy on eBay for $25+free shipping. I downloaded the virtual copy on my iPad but I prefer an actual book I can hold and feel.
    Not to mention: add handwritten notes to, bookmarks and just the tactile feel. We shoot, we cast our own bullets, we load our own ammo. We're a tactile, hands on, feeling group.

  12. #32
    Boolit Buddy
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    I got that book from my uncle when I bought a lot of his casting/shooting equipment. Additionally, I was fortunate enough to have the mentorship of a couple very close shooting/casting buddies. I learned to cast from Lester on a kitchen stove (with ventilation), cast iron frying pan and a Lyman ladle. Slowly progressed to the point that I was shooting High Power Rifle competition at 200 and 300 yards with cast in my rifle (same charge of 2400 as my .44 mag) and my cast load sight setting for 300 yards was the same as my 600 yard setting for jacketed at 600 yards. Sometimes, the stars align!

    Lester introduced me to high power rifle competitive shooting. May he rest in peace.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check