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Thread: Need help with random light primer strikes in Remington 700, 300 RUM

  1. #21
    Boolit Master Jim22's Avatar
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    If you are full-length resizing your brass you may be pushing the shoulder back causing excessive heeadspace. That could easily cause what you are experiencing.

    Jim

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    I'm measuring my shoulders with the hornady comparator. I've been bumping them back two to 3 thousands.

    I loaded up 20 brand new cases today. The primer depths on 2 random cases I grabbed were .0003". When I seated them the RCBS hand primer i felt a firm stop like the normal stop felling I'm use to. Also I had a good amount of resistance when seating bullets. My old brass is definitely getting worn out imo. The old batch of 8 casings I still have loaded up that had decent neck tension. The primer measurement depths of those casings are .0005", .0007,.0008,.0009,.0010,.0013,.0011, and .0014. The primer cavity depths on the new brass average is . 0127". The worn brass primer depths are anywhere from .0127" to .0130". I have not retested the my delayed primer strikes with loading up a few new.emply cases with primers and popping them off again but I'm guessing the new brass with primers seated .0003" will probably have solved my issues along with cleaning my firing pin assembly.
    Last edited by Tripplebeards; 10-18-2021 at 04:18 PM.

  3. #23
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    It sure seems like the primer pockets were reamed too deep on the older cases. Also, i have never had brass get less neck tension as it gets older/shot more. The necks work harden and have more neck tension as they are sized and shot more.

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    I heated those necks that didn't have tension till they were light orange. I FL sized and tried again. Still no neck tension for some reason.

    Ripped open my new bag of brass today...

    The new brass case necks measured .0008/.0009" longer than my fire formed brass right out of bag.. Out of curiosity I tried cycling the unsized brass in my gun before running them through my FL sizer. I didn't feel any resistance. So I set my sizing die flush with the shell holder and didn't cam it over to set my necks back. I did candle one of the .0008" taller empty case shoulders a couple times and closed my bolt. I still couldnt feel any resistance but I can see it touched. I figured it was fine and loaded my 20 rounds for hunting.




    I do own a hand held forester neck turner. Bought it when I first got into reloading. I think the previous owner of the brass, and, or, I might have experiemtned and turned some necks back in the day on 300 RUM and a few 243 casings. Which makes me think that the brass necks might have been turned and to thin??? FYI I don't think I've turned necks since and never plan on doing so again. Hard to remember because it was 20 years ago.
    Last edited by Tripplebeards; 10-18-2021 at 04:58 PM.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master

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    For neck turned cases i use a FL bushijg die or a neck bushing die to adjust the neck tension. If going to the trouble of neck turning, i will splurge on a die that will properly size the turned cases.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tripplebeards View Post
    I heated those necks that didn't have tension till they were light orange.
    You over heated the brass and ruined it. That is proven by the way the shoulder collapsed. Going by color the brass should just be starting to turn red when viewed in dim lighting.
    Spell check doesn't work in Chrome, so if something is spelled wrong, it's just a typo that I missed.

  7. #27
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    my take on it after looking at the pics is that it does look like the primers are a bit low but it also looks like they were hit hard enough to ignite. First thing id try is a differnt batch of primers then that one or a differnt brand. That would eliminate or show if it was the primers causing it. Id also take the advice of some and pull apart the bolt and clean it. I had problems with misfires in my model 7 one year when it was real cold and it ended up being some of that foam barrel cleaner got into the bolt while i was doing load development earlier that summer and gummed it up. I know its hard to throw away brass. Especially for something like the 300 ultra because its hard to find and expensive but i think id have to deposit that bunch if necks are cracking for no other reason.

  8. #28
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    got a 300 ultra story. I was doing crop damage control shooting and shot a big doe at about 450 yards with mine. At the shot it headed for the woods but i could see it was hurt. Got there and where it went in the woods there was blood everywhere. On the ground, bushes even the trees. It was a blood trail that you about could keep from getting on your clothes let alone your shoes. I thought the deer couldnt have went ten yards but it went over a 100 yards with a blood trail a 2 year old could follow. Got to the deer and i had it it a tad low and about 3 inches above the arm joint. It blew the whole arm off. Just a stump left and the bullet then went into the brisket and blew a hole you cold have stuck a soft ball in. I dont know how that deer made it a 100 feet let alone a 100 yards. It couldnt have had a drop of blood left in it. I learned something that day. Before ive said a few times that deer cant have blood left in it when tracking but ive never had deer bleed a 1/3 as much as that one. I made my longest ever shot on a deer with that gun too. 620 yards which beat my 7stw by 40 yards.

  9. #29
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    I shot a Pronghorn with it at a 1000 yards back in 2000’. Have it head mounted on my wall. I used a 125 grain Nosler ballistic tip loaded just under 4,000 FPS. It ran 40 yards in a circle and tipped over. Looked like I hit it with a FMJ bullet at that distance. Pencil hole in and out. I shot another one at 200 yards that put a coffee can sized hole trough it. I stopped shooting that bullet and that far after my pronghorn hunt. I’ve taken 2 black bear and a 10 point buck with it. Black bear were shot with a 180 factory load swift scirocco (DRT) and a 200 grain partition thst I had a 30 yard track job. The deer was running directly under Heath my tree stand. Bang, flop with a 180 grain Nosler ballistic tip. This year I’m using 180 grain Seirra round noses loaded light. A minimum charge of IMR 7828 SSC at 81.1 grains with a velocity of 2,900 FPS. I tried 4 different powders at with the round nose all at Sierra’s minimum book load and 7828 shot the tightest at MOA. I’m sure the old, worn out casings and hang fires didn’t help my accuracy testing. I’m guessing once the new cases are fire formed I’m guessing my groups will shrink. My shots are normally under a 100 yards so I removed my KDF brake along with some recoil using a starting load. Seems like there is ALOT of extra room in the case and wondered if that was part if the issue at first. Haven’t used the gun for 11 years and figured it is going to get some woods time this year.

    I know I should toss the rest of the old brass but will hold onto it till I find another bag of RP brass to replace it. I’ll just use my new brass for hunting this year. Between the mew brass and bolt cleaning n sure my issues are taken care of. I will end up getting a Grey-Tan firing pin assembly to replace the JLock one of these days.
    Last edited by Tripplebeards; 10-19-2021 at 09:36 AM. Reason: P

  10. #30
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ulav8r View Post
    You over heated the brass and ruined it. That is proven by the way the shoulder collapsed. Going by color the brass should just be starting to turn red when viewed in dim lighting.
    I am with you. I normally don’t heat them to that point but i figured I’d experiment on those 2 cases. Thanks for the reminder to dim the lights. I normally don’t wait till my cases turn red in dim light since I’ve collapsed a few in years past. It’s an eye opener when you try to seat a bullet and the neck wrinkles and collapses.

  11. #31
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    I dont ever aneal brass. Never seen a need to do it and you risk ruining it. Also ive had my best luck in the 300 ultra, 7stw and my new 6.5-300wby with the various 50 bmg powders. 7828 is a bit fast and probably the fastest powder ill even bother with anymore is re25 even that is on the fast. 860 870ect are what i have good luck with and i about exclusively use fed match mag rifle primers with those big cases to get consistent burn.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check