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Thread: New reloading room build

  1. #41
    Boolit Buddy
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    Makes sense. I went ahead and added the middle 2x4 and put on the front 2x4 as well. Those pieces are glued and screwed together. I didn’t put as many screws in those pieces as the glue is strong and I didn’t want to take a chance in one of the screws being in the way of a press. But it does have screws in it
    Then I ran out of 2x4s again lol. Now I’m headed to get some more and frame out the shelf below this, then it’s maple plywood time.

    The island will be next, that one will look as good as I can make it since you can see every side of it. This bench is level and straight, and for sure stout enough

    Updates as soon as I get more 2x4s

  2. #42
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Thats a nice looking space. I'm sure you will spend many happy hours there. Please continue with the pictures of your progress.

  3. #43
    Boolit Master


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    If you don’t have lights yet, I highly recommend the Barrina LEDs from Amazon. I put two of the 8 footers in my reloading room and they provide tons of light. I put 8 of the 8 footers in the general shop which about the size of a two car garage and have 4 times as much light as a school classroom by actual measurement with a good light meter. They’re priced very economically.
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

  4. #44
    Boolit Man
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    “ are glued and screwed together. “

    As a former wood boat builder and furniture maker I appreciate the need for proper glue joints but I also understand the hard way that once glued you can’t take it apart you have to TEAR it apart. Think of your project as a prototype and that some tweaking will almost always be necessary down the road. This type of wall bench is fine with good screw fasteners ( not nails ) on the framing joinerwork since once the top is installed and fastened and a shelve fitted below it will stiffen right up. Not to get into an argument here but all this talk about torsional press loads on the legs makes little sense to me. A heavy ply top well supported underneath will spread any press loads out into the bench framing.
    Good luck

    Rick

  5. #45
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by garbler View Post
    “ are glued and screwed together. “

    As a former wood boat builder and furniture maker I appreciate the need for proper glue joints but I also understand the hard way that once glued you can’t take it apart you have to TEAR it apart. Think of your project as a prototype and that some tweaking will almost always be necessary down the road. This type of wall bench is fine with good screw fasteners ( not nails ) on the framing joinerwork since once the top is installed and fastened and a shelve fitted below it will stiffen right up. Not to get into an argument here but all this talk about torsional press loads on the legs makes little sense to me. A heavy ply top well supported underneath will spread any press loads out into the bench framing.
    Good luck

    Rick
    some good points. As ole Dad used to say, "the screws are mostly just to hold everything together until the glue sets." End grain connections not withstanding of course.
    “Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan


  6. #46
    Boolit Master
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    When I suggested an island, I was thinking just an island.

    Since you are already constructing a bench, maybe you need to reconsider adding an island as well.

    Three44s
    Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207

    “There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”

  7. #47
    Boolit Grand Master OS OK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by garbler View Post
    “ are glued and screwed together. “

    As a former wood boat builder and furniture maker I appreciate the need for proper glue joints but I also understand the hard way that once glued you can’t take it apart you have to TEAR it apart. Think of your project as a prototype and that some tweaking will almost always be necessary down the road. This type of wall bench is fine with good screw fasteners ( not nails ) on the framing joinerwork since once the top is installed and fastened and a shelve fitted below it will stiffen right up. Not to get into an argument here but all this talk about torsional press loads on the legs makes little sense to me. A heavy ply top well supported underneath will spread any press loads out into the bench framing.
    Good luck

    Rick
    Most all of our presses have a small footprint that doesn't allow us to take advantage of that thick plywood top...I put plates under my presses and they do not rock at the end of the stroke.





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  8. #48
    Boolit Man
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    My comments regarding the plywood top are to point out that a stiff multi-directional laminate top will transfer loads in every direction. If you need doubler pads or foundation plates to extend the footprint of your press it makes no difference as the hold down fasteners still transfer the loads to the top. All of my cantilever presses use such pads or plates for various reasons, strength, access to nuts underneath, etc.

    Rick

  9. #49
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by garbler View Post
    “ are glued and screwed together. “

    As a former wood boat builder and furniture maker I appreciate the need for proper glue joints but I also understand the hard way that once glued you can’t take it apart you have to TEAR it apart. Think of your project as a prototype and that some tweaking will almost always be necessary down the road. This type of wall bench is fine with good screw fasteners ( not nails ) on the framing joinerwork since once the top is installed and fastened and a shelve fitted below it will stiffen right up. Not to get into an argument here but all this talk about torsional press loads on the legs makes little sense to me. A heavy ply top well supported underneath will spread any press loads out into the bench framing.
    Good luck

    Rick
    I think you are misunderstanding. It's only the torsion beam.....3-2X4's he's gluing. That's to make them them act together as one....a stronger beam that a timber that size. Everything else you can take apart. Only long 3" deck screws for the support, 1 5/8" for the top. Look into "trim" screws for that....the heads are small enough to fill and hide, since he is using Maple plywood to be stained and not covered with formica. Trim screws are way stronger fasteners than finish nails. They either use a star bit or a square bit screwdriver to insert them. Trim screws with square bit heads are cheaper and imo less likely to strip.



    BTW, with the leg design, it's not hard to hide an el bracket inside and fasten the back leg parts to hide them with trim screws you can remove. (thinking here about the Island.....depends on whether he wants it anchored)

    I've built no boats, just 50 buildings and a hundred homes....but I understand the need for a reloading bench to be able to be taken apart.
    Last edited by GWS; 10-31-2021 at 04:53 PM.

  10. #50
    Boolit Man
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    “ But I use a triple 2x4 torsion beam.....meaning it's heavy enough the press handle can't twist it. “

    So maybe this comment of yours is what got me thinking this way. Oh well one way or the other I am positive this man will end up with a great reloading room to the envy of most.

    Rick

  11. #51
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Yup.....I'm already jealous.....I wish I had that much room just for reloading! But on the other hand....I may be too old to adequately enjoy such a facility.

  12. #52
    Boolit Grand Master OS OK's Avatar
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    If your using screws with full shank threads (pictured above with GWS)...
    I suggest using a counter sink bit to drill the larger frame members, say your drilling through a 2x4 and going to screw into another 2x4...use a bit that's the same diameter as the shank of the screw, don't drill into the other 2x4 you are mounting into.
    This way the screw uses all its grab ability to pull the 2 - 2x4 together for a super tight joint.



    I've used screws that have an inch to an inch & one half of un-threaded shank next to the head end, those don't need to be pre-drilled.

    a m e r i c a n p r a v d a

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  13. #53
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    Yup.....I'm already jealous.....I wish I had that much room just for reloading! But on the other hand....I may be too old to adequately enjoy such a facility.
    Yea me too.

  14. #54
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    OS OK: The picture was the first trim screw I found on Google, some do have recessed shanks. But with trim screws I just drill a small hole through the 3/4" top first, with a regular drill, just so the screw will go in tight. That makes it so you can screw it "set" under the surface enough to fill it flush with putty....it pulls the top tight. Keep in mind this is going into soft wood. For hardwood kitchen cabinet framework all those goodies you pictured are fine tools and necessary for fine work. But I still use finish nail guns on this type of project when fastening a hardwood maple face.....which faces, I assume the OP may want to use in front of his Maple top.....You can also fasten them with trim screws, but even predrilled holes followed by hand nailed finish nails, isn't hard to do.....just have a countersink tool handy.

    For the 3" deck screws, going into soft 2x4's I don't bother....but of course 3" deck screws do have a recessed shank below the head. The heads can countersink just fine without any special countersink drilling bits. That said, pre-drilling with shank diameter regular drill bits is helpful and requires less experience when the screws follow the holes.
    Last edited by GWS; 10-31-2021 at 07:40 PM.

  15. #55
    Boolit Buddy
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    The only pieces that were glued, were the front “beam”. Everything else can be disassembled no problem.
    I am using 3”, 2.5”, and 1.5” screws. The 3” screws went into the wall into the studs. The 2.5” are used to screw 2x4s to 2x4s through pocket holes. The 1.5” screws will be used to screw 1x1 onto the underside of the “frame” and then screw screws from the bottom into the top plywood for no screw heads or anything to be seen from the top. I did my fathers bench this way for his wood working shop and I liked how it came out

    I am using “good” screws IMO. I do predrill a really small hole if I am close to the end of a board to prevent it splitting.

    Next will be to paint everything you’d see black and then pickup the maple to finish the top and start the poly or stain or whatever I’m going to do. The bottom shelf will get a 1/2” plywood, maybe birch or something since it isn’t that much more in the grand scheme of things (considering prices during this insane time)

    I’d like to get the bench done completely and then build the island. Always open to ideas and/or critiques. The shelf on the bottom wasn’t super planned out, but it won’t hold all that much weight probably. The open spot is for the mini fridge and who knows what else
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails F14E8EB5-F7EC-4C0D-85E1-1BB6200CF94F.jpg   7A281B05-994C-481D-B552-FDD2133C169B.jpg   15FBD09C-33A6-4180-A6EE-A59EEEE48894.jpg  

  16. #56
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    You got a great start! Lucky you! May it go fast so you can reload soon!

  17. #57
    Boolit Buddy Blindshooter's Avatar
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    OP, thanks for taking the time to post your new room build.

    It reminds me so much of one I did in the early 90's.

    I'd still have it if not for evil wife #2.

    Wish I'd thought about an island back then. Also wish I'd never give that woman access to my money/credit.

  18. #58
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    You got a great start! Lucky you! May it go fast so you can reload soon!
    Thank you! Looking to buy the maple Friday and hopefully have the bench painted by Thursday. Will of course post updates along the way. Thinking of adding the Wall Control metal pegboard above the bench along the wall for modular storage options. But definitely want to build some shallow shelves for things like die boxes and such

  19. #59
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blindshooter View Post
    OP, thanks for taking the time to post your new room build.

    It reminds me so much of one I did in the early 90's.

    I'd still have it if not for evil wife #2.

    Wish I'd thought about an island back then. Also wish I'd never give that woman access to my money/credit.
    Hahah. I hate to hear that man. Hopefully my pictures take you back to the better times at least

    I had never thought of doing an island before either, but that’s why I made a post asking for ideas and I am glad I did. It makes sense for this room. If the walls weren’t shaped this way I probably wouldn’t do it, but needing the height for the Dillons, they needed to be in the middle of the room somehow

    And I have never been married. Maybe that’s selfish, but I like to think of myself more as cautious

  20. #60
    Boolit Grand Master OS OK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by makeurownfun View Post
    Hahah. I hate to hear that man. Hopefully my pictures take you back to the better times at least

    I had never thought of doing an island before either, but that’s why I made a post asking for ideas and I am glad I did. It makes sense for this room. If the walls weren’t shaped this way I probably wouldn’t do it, but needing the height for the Dillons, they needed to be in the middle of the room somehow

    And I have never been married. Maybe that’s selfish, but I like to think of myself more as cautious;)
    A word of wisdom from an old'Fart married 3 times. This 3'rd time was the charm...43 years and still ticking!

    "Just make sure when you do fall in Love, that it's Love and not Lust!"
    a m e r i c a n p r a v d a

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check