New reloading room build

[Three44s]

With a long narrow room like the OP, I would consider multiple small islands or a docking system and fewer islands or just one.

I built a (too) large table, very sturdy out of steel and put a wood top on it and placed it the middle of my man cave. The top collects stuff.

In my former life (before my man cave) I used a portable home made stand for 35 years for my press and portable tables to put components on as I processed my ammo.

I could easily adapt to a fixed small island for the presses and portable small tables to put stuff on pertaining to the work at hand.

Three44s

[makeurownfun]

I do like the idea of basically building a large island in the middle of the room. That would give me space on the wall to mount a TV

The second picture is looking at the wall you walk through. That is to show the distance of the sloped wall as well as the ceiling height

Here is the “floor plan” in inches and I also labeled where in my head I think everything can go. Idk if I’m going to mount all of these machines, but I have them and if I have the room why not. The APP will be for cast bullet sizing only

On the right hand side along the long section of wall from the “brass prep” table to the entry door, will be sections of Wall Control panels holding guns and magazines, with ammo cans beneath it all. Across from the bathroom will be shelving for powder/primer at orange as well as brass too.
Not in a big rush, but I just want a solid plan and build it right the first time. I am tired of my bench top moving when I use the press. I want them solid

[GWS]

The beginnings of a 2D floor plan to scale, based on your dimensions. As you can see there is one discrepancy in dimensions you posted.

Would be nice to know how high the case feeders are. and the mounted 750's. Also is your door width measurements the door itself or the door with casing. Best to measure to the door slab itself. Is your door really 6'11" high....I'm showing 6'8" (normal) and it barely fits under the angled ceiling.....

I squared of the bench by the entrance....I know you have it beveled but IME you will lose useful bench length if you do....I'll hack it off if you want.

Attachment 290458

If you print out the pdf it should be 1/4"= 1'-0" I will rescale the dimensions to normal for that scale (smaller) but I wanted this prelim to be easy to read.

Once the drawing is accurate, you can play with lots of options....like extending the bench even the length of the room with shorter turnouts for the presses.....I'll show you what I mean one the drawing of the room is corrected...

I bought a drafting stool that swivels and made my bench 42" high so I could have my knees go under while seated.... Even being shorter than you, I don't care for having to sit down low, ever. The stool is closer to standing height, so moving from one function to another is easier. That is especially nice as I get ancienter.

[makeurownfun]

The beginnings of a 2D floor plan to scale, based on your dimensions. As you can see there is one discrepancy in dimensions you posted.

Would be nice to know how high the case feeders are. and the mounted 750's. Also is your door width measurements the door itself or the door with casing. Best to measure to the door slab itself. Is your door really 6'11" high....I'm showing 6'8" (normal) and it barely fits under the angled ceiling.....

I squared of the bench by the entrance....I know you have it beveled but IME you will lose useful bench length if you do....I'll hack it off if you want.

Attachment 290458

If you print out the pdf it should be 1/4"= 1'-0" I will rescale the dimensions to normal for that scale (smaller) but I wanted this prelim to be easy to read.

Once the drawing is accurate, you can play with lots of options....like extending the bench even the length of the room with shorter turnouts for the presses.....I'll show you what I mean one the drawing of the room is corrected...

I bought a drafting stool that swivels and made my bench 42" high so I could have my knees go under while seated.... Even being shorter than you, I don't care for having to sit down low, ever. The stool is closer to standing height, so moving from one function to another is easier. That is especially nice as I get ancienter.

The 750s with case feeders are 43.75” tall with my strong mounts. Call it 44 but I’d also like to keep about 8-10” above that to be able to fill them and swap the feed plates

The door and window measurements are only door and window. The casings are 1x4s and I measure from the walls to the outside of the casing. And yes the door casing is trimmed for the angle wall like you have it on the print too
The sketch showing the size of that one wall isn’t to scale like the original I drew out to where 1 block was right at 8”

Thanks for helping me with this though! Would love all of the feedback and/or critiques too. I had never thought of doing an island in the middle, might would be ok, but we will see what it all looks like

[OS OK]

Just spitballing here but often we get stuck with conventional wisdom and often end up creating more work than it’s worth. Step back, review your real estate/floor plan and think about a center island work around bench. If clearances work there are any many many advantages to this type of bench. Having 360° of working access like a woodworkers trestle bench the concept has proven itself for hundreds of years. And though it should be anchored to the deck with weight it’s not real critical so the option to move it, if needed, is a nice feature. Think about it.

Never knew anyone who tried such a thing...but since I do woodworking, metalworking & maintain equipment I use on the acreage + having 50 years of tool collection, I couldn't afford an entire wall of space to line up my presses and...moving presses from shelf storage to docks is out of the question. My presses are simple & without collators or bullet feeders but this simple layout might give you some incentive to ''think out of the box''. When I want to use a specific press, I want it now. I am too lame-brain to reset things for some specific loading...it's wasted time for me.
So I considered a round bench in the center of the reloading, casting, tumbling & PC'ing area...it was a crapshoot of an idea but now after many years working in this environment, I wouldn't change one thing.



The scales are mounted on their own shelf on a dedicated pedestal that goes through the center of this round bench, they adjust in height & adjust to whichever press you want to work from, they are not affected by bench vibrations.








It is a heavy bench, double 3/4" plywood top on a 2x6 hexagonal frame with 3 legs...each press is mounted above a leg, there's no tipping when using the presses.
This shop could be described as having 8 pounds of stuff in a 3 pound bag. I have an extra single garage connected to this one but it is full of machinery I seldom use and is a mini-hardware store of parts-n-pieces I've collected over many years of contracting.
It's often too much stuff but I've never been able to just clean house without regretting having gotten rid of something...it's a curse.

[GWS]

Posting one Island Idea, with a lot of extra bench for gun building and such. Just an idea to give you more ideas.

Attachment 290697

I think the drawing is pretty accurate now that I got your measuring system down.

[makeurownfun]

It is a heavy bench, double 3/4" plywood top on a 2x6 hexagonal frame with 3 legs...each press is mounted above a leg, there's no tipping when using the presses.
This shop could be described as having 8 pounds of stuff in a 3 pound bag. I have an extra single garage connected to this one but it is full of machinery I seldom use and is a mini-hardware store of parts-n-pieces I've collected over many years of contracting.
It's often too much stuff but I've never been able to just clean house without regretting having gotten rid of something...it's a curse.

Yes. I had never saw a setup like that or even though of it. But it makes sense too. Simple
Is that El Dorado, AR?

Posting one Island Idea, with a lot of extra bench for gun building and such. Just an idea to give you more ideas.

Attachment 290467

I think the drawing is pretty accurate now that I got your measuring system down.

Ohhhh, now I do like that! It puts both Dillons with case feeders under the full height of the ceiling. Even with the shelves being moved over to the other side wouldn’t be bad either. Plus the brass cleaning directly across from the bathroom makes more sense than having to walk around the corner. Not to mention that would be a ton of bench space which is never a bad thing! Run a shelf under the top and then hang the wall control pegboards on the wall above the bench for more organizing

Ok, well what does the base of your bench look like? I’d rather it be a tad overbuilt and not flex. I was thinking 2x6 across the wall, vertical 2x4s off of that to form the “frame” of the top, 2x4 bracing every 2-3’, and I actually thought about running another 2x6 across the wall and running 2x4s at a 45 from there to the outside of the benchtop frame. But that would put all of the strain on the studs and Sheetrock alone

Oh and there was no “measuring system” lol. I had no intentions of showing anyone that. I just knew I planned on being in this house for a while and I wanted it built right. This is my first house and I can be a little OCD with things
I did a year of construction management (drafting) back around 2006 and I just wanted to plan it out so I could kind of see how much walking space I would have around the room essentially

[garbler]

I’ve built several rooms with center island benches but never a round one. I really like OS ‘s round bench and can see several advantages to it much like a round dinner table. Better access to machines and probably easier working positions. However unless you’re a woodworker building a round table and base can be a challenge compared to right angles. I would suggest hitting used furniture stores and find a farm or family style heavy dinning table. You’ll save money and time and using it as a base you can overlay with ply and laminate, beef up the top underneath, use the leaf if necessary and modify and reinforce the base as needed.

If you were closer to Michigan I’d give you one of my nice heavy flat bench tops that I’ve kept after shutting down my furniture business. Very heavy very flat. BTW I’ve seen many shops that repurpose old heavy wood entry doors by overlaying with 3/4” ply. Lots of good stuff out there. I once bought two 12’x4’ heavy mahogany library tables I used for glue stations at about 5% of what I could build them for. Of course I had a forklift and I didn’t have to move it upstairs. One last thing try to keep your weight down on the middle of your joists. The wall perimeter should hold most weight.

[OS OK]

Yes. I had never saw a setup like that or even though of it. But it makes sense too. Simple
Is that El Dorado, AR?



Ohhhh, now I do like that! It puts both Dillons with case feeders under the full height of the ceiling. Even with the shelves being moved over to the other side wouldn’t be bad either. Plus the brass cleaning directly across from the bathroom makes more sense than having to walk around the corner. Not to mention that would be a ton of bench space which is never a bad thing! Run a shelf under the top and then hang the wall control pegboards on the wall above the bench for more organizing

Ok, well what does the base of your bench look like? I’d rather it be a tad overbuilt and not flex. I was thinking 2x6 across the wall, vertical 2x4s off of that to form the “frame” of the top, 2x4 bracing every 2-3’, and I actually thought about running another 2x6 across the wall and running 2x4s at a 45 from there to the outside of the benchtop frame. But that would put all of the strain on the studs and Sheetrock alone

Oh and there was no “measuring system” lol. I had no intentions of showing anyone that. I just knew I planned on being in this house for a while and I wanted it built right. This is my first house and I can be a little OCD with things
I did a year of construction management (drafting) back around 2006 and I just wanted to plan it out so I could kind of see how much walking space I would have around the room essentially

"It's El Dorado -behind enemy lines- California!"

Ok, well what does the base of your bench look like? I'll see if I can give you a picture tour that makes sense...the bottom, hex frame of 2x6 & 4x4 post legs face cut to fit that 60º inside frame angle...everything 'screwed & glued' to the hilt...(I could have made the under-frame wider to give even better stability under the 48" diameter top but I wanted wide flanges under the top for miscellaneous clamping of temporary tools, that little Lee C press I use for de-capping gets moved around & when I use the brass trimmer I clamp it also.)



Panning down to the back view of the old industrial first aid station I use for a die storage box...that orange extension cord goes up to the ceiling outlet for the garage door opener, the other end feeds the plug strip mounted on the leg to the right...



Looking a little farther down there's the base of the scales shelf, it's an old fire truck brake disc that weighs plenty much...



At the bottom of it all, there's a 5/8" x 10" (?) stove bolt for leveling, it screws into a barrel nut-(rod coupler) that hammers into the wood, the hole it goes up into just barley will allow the bolt's OD, this prevents wobble.



On the top-side there's the view of the shelf adjusting knob...just a pipe over a pipe and a 1/4" x 20 thd. knob-screw to tighten the shelf in place...



Originally I had not planned for a sizing press above the die storage, but as things in the shop morph I added this press...



that led to adding a counter weight on the underside to prevent any tipping action from sizing hard rifle casts...these are 3 x 25 pound bricks of range lead. Would just one do? I don't know, I added the 3 and never looked back because I can size and there's no indication of any tipping towards that press...



On the topside of the pipe shelf support I added a bench magnet from Harbor Freight...it's the place I keep all the small tools that disappear among the presses...one of the handiest 'after thoughts' I've had yet.



That about sizes things up, if I haven't made clear something I can take more pictures if you wish.
On a side note...cabinets are great things to keep things organized. One thing is my library...I collected books about reloading, firearm take-down, load manuals from the early 60's...I can't stress enough having a special place for all that. Many other parts and pieces are associated with these presses, like repair & consumables & these type things are labeled for what they go to and kept in the cabinets. I could go on and on about cabinets but won't, I'd bore everyone to death.
Hope this inspires you to make an island too...until you actually use it you just can't imagine how handy it is to have 'all your presses' available 'all the time', we multi-task in this hobby and especially so when we are working up a load or experimenting.
Good luck with your build, I'll be following closely...I enjoy watching someone setting up a shop with 'fore-thought' & proper 'engineering & layout'.

charlie

[Baltimoreed]

Neat idea Charlie. I used cubicle desks for my bench build that came from the habitat store. My room is 10x12 and the bench runs the length of the wall. I added a separate pedestal for another Dillon. My tall stool has wheels so I just scoot around the room when I’m reloading. I sit when I reload. Stood and walked for 40 years.

[OS OK]

Neat idea Charlie. I used cubicle desks for my bench build that came from the habitat store. My room is 10x12 and the bench runs the length of the wall. I added a separate pedestal for another Dillon. My tall stool has wheels so I just scoot around the room when I’m reloading. I sit when I reload. Stood and walked for 40 years.

In my last shop I built a 20' bench thinking that would be the 'cat's meow'...just line up all this equipment and I'll have it made! NOT TO BE...I liked the bench space but, being such a pack-rat and leaving tools from one end to the other I was always searching through the debris and parts-n-pieces that found their way to the back of the bench next to the wall. I started out well organized but that didn't last very long at all.
I have to compromise with my way of leaving stuff around...having the round bench I treat it as an assembly center (I can reach across and grab the calipers or something I left at another press without taking a trip down the bench)...I am bringing the parts-n-pieces I need for loading and being diligent about leaving any extra stuff laying around in the way. (In other words...pick up & put away stuff when I'm done, I keep saying this to myself...it's partially working now)
Still, it looks cluttered but it's workable & lost tools and such is a thing of the past now.
I used a roll-around stool for the longest & loved it and it finally broke at the bottom where it's a cast aluminum assembly...I need to buy another stool like the old one but can't find one so I'm on non moveable stools at the moment.
I like your setup.

[GWS]

......

Ok, well what does the base of your bench look like? I’d rather it be a tad overbuilt and not flex. I was thinking 2x6 across the wall, vertical 2x4s off of that to form the “frame” of the top, 2x4 bracing every 2-3’, and I actually thought about running another 2x6 across the wall and running 2x4s at a 45 from there to the outside of the benchtop frame. But that would put all of the strain on the studs and Sheetrock alone

Oh and there was no “measuring system” lol. I had no intentions of showing anyone that. I just knew I planned on being in this house for a while and I wanted it built right. This is my first house and I can be a little OCD with things
I did a year of construction management (drafting) back around 2006 and I just wanted to plan it out so I could kind of see how much walking space I would have around the room essentially

The base? That's in my first post in the plans, and pictures of the thing. But I use a triple 2x4 torsion beam.....meaning it's heavy enough the press handle can't twist it. The top is just a single layer of 3/4" plywood which is screwed to a 2X4 cleat lagged into each stud.....so you don't see any flex. There's a gazillion ways to beef of a bench, but that torsion beam does it with the least amount of material....any more would be wasted....but I bolt my presses directly through the beam with 5" long bolts through the press, top, and beam, then a fender washer then a nut. No press stands for me, at 42" high I don't need or want them. I added drawer stacks and shelf underneath as needed. My legs are built up for mass and looks, glued and screwed with counter sunk and filled trim screws.



That said .... how you built it is a personal thing....there is no wrong way unless it flexes or breaks under load. But tough and inexpensive are not of necessity, mutually exclusive.

I don't have an island, but if I wanted one, I'd probably build that with beams all around to add weight....and cross pieces every 12 to 16 inches.....my against the wall 2' wide benches don't need cross pieces except at ends. I mean you have 24" minus 4-1/2" at the beam, and 1-1/2" at the wall, leaving only 18" in between....and with 3/4" plywood it really doesn't need any more cross pieces....already stiff as hell.

[makeurownfun]

I don't have an island, but if I wanted one, I'd probably build that with beams all around to add weight....and cross pieces every 12 to 16 inches.....my against the wall 2' wide benches don't need cross pieces except at ends. I mean you have 24" minus 4-1/2" at the beam, and 1-1/2" at the wall, leaving only 18" in between....and with 3/4" plywood it really doesn't need any more cross pieces....already stiff as hell.

Now Im really contemplating doing an island... I really like the full bench all the way down the wall. Brass prep right across from the bathroom/sink, plenty of room for gun building and cleaning, not to mention just that much more work surface. Then the island I could do a "Dillon Island" sort of lol. I think ill tape it off on the floor and see what it looks like as far as space and walking room around there. Plus being able to mount a smaller TV on the wall beside the door this way is also a bonus.

Could build a shelf under all of these tops as well for even more storage

[Baltimoreed]

I would also suggest installing those desk lights with the 4 parallel arms with swivel heads. I have 4 where I can put multiple lights right where I’m working. Just grab them and point ‘em where needed. I mounted them to shelving and wall mounts. You can never have too much light or shelves. And don’t forget your stereo or 8 Track. Gotta have tunes. My pix is old as that end of it has been rebuilt.

[GWS]

Could build a shelf under all of these tops as well for even more storage

Yes, easy. A drawer stack or two would really add storage too.....know a carpenter? If not maybe buy something?

Baltimoreed's comment is indeed important.....light.....you need way more than you have. I would buy a bunch more can lights and if you supply them with LED bulbs, you and add a lot, since they use a fraction of the wattage incandescent lighting uses. No florescents though...they cause drift on electronic scales....as does heat vents moving air, so deflect those away from your scales too.

Good luck with your project! Pictures....when you get her done!

[makeurownfun]

Yes, easy. A drawer stack or two would really add storage too.....know a carpenter? If not maybe buy something?

Baltimoreed's comment is indeed important.....light.....you need way more than you have. I would buy a bunch more can lights and if you supply them with LED bulbs, you and add a lot, since they use a fraction of the wattage incandescent lighting uses. No florescents though...they cause drift on electronic scales....as does heat vents moving air, so deflect those away from your scales too.

Good luck with your project! Pictures....when you get her done!

Oh yeah, already planned on bench lights somewhere. I do like that leg design you posted and ill probably utilize that. Thought about adding crossbraces laid on their side (2x4) to add some thickness under the bench top for the Dillons to bolt through as well. Excited to get this build started regardless!

Now to decide on an island or not. IF I dont, I will still need to get one of the Dillons towards the center of the room, and without a kickout, idk how to achieve that. Maybe the island idea is the way. What size is that island in the second drawing you posted?

[CLAYPOOL]

My oldest is now 38 . One of her "Fondest" memory's is loading shells for my Prairie Dog hunting trips. I told her each shell has to be 100 % right for your dad's safety and the guy with me... She all ways smiles talking about me letting here load...

[GWS]

........
Now to decide on an island or not. IF I dont, I will still need to get one of the Dillons towards the center of the room, and without a kickout, idk how to achieve that. Maybe the island idea is the way. What size is that island in the second drawing you posted?

I added dimensions to that drawing....take another look.

The island is 66x36, but the drawing also now has measurements from everything around it.

[makeurownfun]

I added dimensions to that drawing....take another look.

The island is 66x36, but the drawing also now has measurements from everything around it.

Started on the bench. About to add the 2x4s across the front then go back and add onto the legs for the “tortion” part (idk how else to describe it)

You do add a 2x4 between the legs and sandwiched between the 2 2x4s across the legs too? I thought about leaving the middle 2x4 out incase that’s where some mounting bolts go. I guess I could drill through them as well, just have to use like a 6” bolt to mount the presses down

[GWS]

I used the 6" bolts ..... the 2X4's for the beam need to be screwed and glued together. I used 3" long deck screws....try not to put screws where you plan to drill for vertical bolts. As you can see in post 32, I didn't add 2x4's in the back of the legs, but you can, obviously wherever you wish. Being that the leg is stout as it is you could just screw a couple of vertical blocks flush at the back then add a full high 2x4 at the back and quarter-round molding at the back two corners too.....I didn't go that far. On the island where you can walk all the way around you might want to for looks.

But the horizontal torsion beam needs to be 3 solid 2x4's glued and screwed to resist twisting when you crank the presses. Not much stronger than 6" bolts through the whole thing.....

Looks like you are well on the way.....i wish you success!