I just noticed a small ding in my muzzle. It’s not much, but is definitely there. Can I remove it with a jeweler’s file or does the whole crown need to be recut?
Thanks
I just noticed a small ding in my muzzle. It’s not much, but is definitely there. Can I remove it with a jeweler’s file or does the whole crown need to be recut?
Thanks
Crowning cutters. https://pacifictoolandgauge.com/47-barrel-crown-tools
.
I remove small dings via chucking an appropriate size round head brass screw (any hardware store) in a hand-held power drill, first plugging the bore with a bit of cloth, then dipping the screw's round head into automotive valve grinding paste/compound.
http://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Ha290908c4...=800&hash=1600
While running the drill in the muzzle, I guide it in a circular motion to avoid off-center lapping.
.
Now I lay me down to sleep
A gun beside me is what I keep
If I awake, and you're inside
The coroner's van is your next ride
Does it reach the bore? If it's just on the face you can probably leave it alone. If it contacts the edge of the bore or if it's deep enough to displace metal into the bore (so your muzzle is out of round) you won't really be able to fix it with a file.
The real question is did your groups fall apart or did your group center shift? If if it shoots the same as it ever did it's nothing to worry about.
Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.
A round head brass screw, brass ball, round nosed bullet either jacketed or cast The lead bullet will give the best finish since it impregnates and holds the compound better.
Work slow and easy. every so often add a drop of oil or water depending on the compound. check often but only clean the work if really needed. The compound breaks down into finer and finer grits as its used.
It dosnt take long to clean up the crown, If you have access to lay out ink a light coat before starting will help show the dings and flaws. A marker may work but some compounds may dissolve it. If not when all the ink in he worked area is gone its done give it a light finish with some very fine polish and a patch tightly held around the lapp
I tried some valve lapping compound on a lead boolit turning in a drill. It shined up the muzzle, but took a long time to remove any significant amount of metal. It reminds me of when I tried to get rid if some imperfections in a steel mold. Not much happened to the mold, but I got a really shiny boolit. Unfortunately the ding is at a groove, so the lapping wasn’t touching it. It did make it a lot easier to see to problem. I could just feel it with a 90* scribe. I gently touched it up with a file. I’ll see how it shoots today. Unfortunately, this will only be the second time I will be shooting the gun and don’t have anything to compare it’s accuracy to.
Thanks for all the help and ideas.
Having a lathe I would recut the crown or find a friend with a lathe and recut the crown. Other than that spend the money for piloted tools from Brownells if I thought I would need to do another or Get a Gunsmith to recrown it. He needs to eat also.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |