Feeding problems - again!

[mvintx]

I thought I had this issue solved with my Delta Elite and MP 165 grain TC boolits. I loaded up several hundred and put them away. Today I decide to shoot it a bit and the rounds will not feed reliably. Boolits are seated about as deep as I can get them with just enough crimp to remove the flare. Very light load at 1042 fps, using a 18.5 lb recoil spring. Wilson full length guide rod and shokbuff has been in the gun since new and never had any reliability issues until I started loading this Boolit. A 20 lb spring will overcome the feed problem but my old hands find it very difficult to work the slide.

The round hangs up with the nose into the top of the chamber and the case jammed against the barrel feed ramp. I can see the dent on the case where it hangs up. The barrel is well broken it...over 5,000 rounds of jacketed but mostly the Lyman 401638 which has a rounded nose and feeds reliably. The MP has a sharp nose to it

What's a guy to do???

[LUCKYDAWG13]

I had a problem like that my feeding problem was from my magazine

[Winger Ed.]

I'd try a couple of different magazines first.

[35remington]

The key to getting along with a 1911 is relatively simple.

Don’t feed it bullets you want it to feed. Feed it bullets it runs with and stick to those.

You have described the classic three point jam. A rounded rather than sharp meplat edge is more forgiving and allows the round to pivot correctly as it transitions from angled to straight feed. Consider that 1911 “101.”

[44MAG#1]

Have you tried seating the bullets out as far as the Magazine or the chamber will allow? Either the magazine or the chamber will be the determining factor in OAL.
I try to not go over 1.260". Of course meplat diameter can affect the length on bullets with wide meplats, although less in a 10MM than a 45 Auto.
Plus I taper crimp fairly heavy.

[mvintx]

Have you tried seating the bullets out as far as the Magazine or the chamber will allow? Either the magazine or the chamber will be the determining factor in OAL.
I try to not go over 1.260". Of course meplat diameter can affect the length on bullets with wide meplats, although less in a 10MM than a 45 Auto.
Plus I taper crimp fairly heavy.

I've set the OAL at 1.265" right now. Any longer and the rounds hang up in the magazine. The MP 165 meplat is about the same as the Lyman 175 but it has the sharp nose. I suppose I could get it a bit shorter and give that a try. I was using Wilson mags...guess I'll try the Colts and see if it makes a difference (thanks Winger). I hate to give up on the MP bullet since I invested $$$ into the mold.

I was thinking of having the top edge of the barrel feed ramp lowered a bit to help but I don't know if that's the right thing to do.

[44MAG#1]

Have you tried taper crimping fairly heavy?

[mvintx]

I have not. It has been suggested here and if I understand this correctly, more crimp can aid in the PC being scraped from the bullet as it is fired. I was under the impression that I need only to crimp the case enough to move the case walls snugly against the bullet. The loaded round measures about .424" (.402 dia plus .022 for the case walls) at the case mouth. I don't know if additional crimp can help but it's certainly worth a try. The case is dented about 3/16" below the case mouth where it hangs up on the chamber so the round is making it past where the amount of crimp would make a difference. Am I understanding that correctly?

[44MAG#1]

The only to find out is to try it. Load a couple with a heavy taper crimp and then pull the bullets, see if the PC comes off. If not load a few and try them by shooting. My taper crimp is heavy enough to easily see it with the naked eye not by the use of a caliper.
Only through experimenting by trying a myriad of combinations will you really find out. I load a 200 grain with a fairly decent meplat and haven't had any problems.

[35remington]

Given the possibly high pressures of 10mm the most that should be done with the top of the barrel ramp is to break any sharp corner present. A very light radius with fine grit sandpaper is all that should be performed and only if a sharp angle is present.

No power tools or Dremels…..the scourge of 1911 reliability and potentially safety as well.

Crimping harder isn’t going to help a three point jam, but do give changing OAL a try. The good thing is you have a design that works if reasonable methods with this one fail.

[mvintx]

Given the possibly high pressures of 10mm the most that should be done with the top of the barrel ramp is to break any sharp corner present. A very light radius with fine grit sandpaper is all that should be performed and only if a sharp angle is present.

No power tools or Dremels…..the scourge of 1911 reliability and potentially safety as well.

Crimping harder isn’t going to help a three point jam, but do give changing OAL a try. The good thing is you have a design that works if reasonable methods with this one fail.

Thanks. I was wondering how more crimp would solve the problem, unless the case mouth is dragging past the feed ramp and causing the problem. Guess I'll try a little shorter too but there isn't much bullet shoulder exposed to work with. Dang. And it's such a great-looking boolit too. Sorta makes you wonder why Miha puts such a sharp nose on a bullet. No way to modify the mold without making the bullet longer. I'll try adding some more crimp too...nothin' to lose.

[44MAG#1]

I know the "experts" will chime in but what would it hurt to crimp harder and try it.
Again what would it hurt to try simple first before going into the hair pulling routine?
While I am waaay below most on here I have learned one thing from Professor Experience in the University of Hard Knocks after completing my lower education
do the simple things first to try to remedy a problem.

[tja6435]

I know the "experts" will chime in but what would it hurt to crimp harder and try it.
Again what would it hurt to try simple first before going into the hair pulling routine?
While I am waaay below most on here I have learned one thing from Professor Experience in the University of Hard Knocks after completing my lower education
do the simple things first to try to remedy a problem.

I have a G19 that won’t feed unless I put the extra heavy crimp on the cartridge, my .45 1911 also needs a good taper crimp, not as much as the G19 but more than just flattening the mouth of the case.

I vote to try a heavier crimp

[mvintx]

Yep, I'll try adding crimp. Like you say, it's the easiest thing to try along with a different magazine. My .45 1911 has a similar problem and I'll crimp those some more too. Got nothin' to lose.

[Larry Gibson]

mvintx

Does the Delta have and integral feed ramp with the barrel?

[mvintx]

mvintx

Does the Delta have and integral feed ramp with the barrel?

I should take a pic but the way I see it, the barrel has a small feed ramp and the frame has kind-of a ramp too. I'll get a pic and post it.

[Divil]

I suspect the barrel is not integrally ramped, not something I have seen in regular production Colts. My Colt 9mm 1911’s are not integrally ramped. Another vote for heavier crimp.

[dla]

The heavier taper crimp will round over the edge a bit, which might be enough "slickness".

[wv109323]

Get rid of the shockbuff. They do not allow the slide to travel all the way to the rear. Plus they can drag on the slide and change the slide speed. If you taper crimp after bullet seating , it will not damage the powder coat.
Is the cartridge rim below the breechface or partially up the breechface?
If below it is the magazine not pushing the cartridge up or the slide/recoil spring not allowing the slide to travel to the rear far enough.
If on the breechface, it could be the rim not sliding under the extractor. Or it could be cartridge length.
Will the slide lock back if one round is put in the magazine loaded and then fired?

[mvintx]

Here's a pic. I wouldn't call it a feed ramp...just a radius at the bottom of the barrel.

[IMG][/IMG]