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Thread: Lead melting pot recommendations

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    I would way rather have a 20 pound pot than a 10 because in a 10, when you add lead it will cool down much quicker and when you wait for the lead to get back up to temperature your mold will come down unless you have a hot plate and even then the mold might get too hot or not be hot enough. It is an added expense but I use two pots and take melted lead from the second and add to the one I am pouring from so I never have to stop. If you use any of the Lee pots put some weight on the handle that dumps the lead so you will have better contact and less drips. The only difference between the Lee and an RCBS for drips is the RCBS puts more weight on the valve and you can twist the Lee valve but can't the RCBS.

  2. #22
    Boolit Mold
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    Thanks for that input. I really appreciate it. I'm pretty decided on the 20lb pot. Now, I just have to find one. I saw one last night, online. Can't recall if it was Grafs or FS maybe. When I get home I'll get it ordered.

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  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I don't really think you need two pots to prevent a massive temp drop when adding lead, just preheat the ingots on the rim of the casting pot.

    This is easily accomplished by making your own ingot molds from angle iron. BruceB (RIP) recommended 10½", primarily so the ingots would fit inside a fifty cal ammo can for storage. I find that anything in the range of 8 to 10½" works fine for resting across the pot rim, free heat. I also don't store my ingots in an ammo can, probably be better off if I did.

    Robert

  4. #24
    Boolit Master


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    I preheat ingots on my hotplate.
    I HATE auto-correct

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  5. #25
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    I used the 10 pound Lee for 45+ years and still use it. The trick with maintaining heat is to not let the contents get lower then about 2/3's full. When it gets that low drop in another 1.5 to 2 lb. ingot and keep pouring.
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  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I realize that I'm late to the thread. Guess I missed it earlier? If I were to need a new casting pot I would defiantly get a 20# one. Its easier to flux, stir and skim with a bigger pot. It also takes longer to empty it, a good thing after you start getting good bullets. Larger is also better if you are using a gang mold and/or casting heavy bullets.

    I don't know which brand I would choose. Both the Lyman and the RCBS got mixed reviews when they were both released. If I bought a new Lee pot I would lap the spout before ever using it. I'm really lusting after a Master pot!

    As to voltage, the 220 volt pots are usually meant to be marketed in Europe. I think Farmbif mentioned this earlier.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master 15meter's Avatar
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    I saw several references to ingots, I've you are considering an "Ingot" mold, look first at Muffin pans, they are way cheaper, and I think I had mine given to me because I said I was looking for some to cast with. I've seen them at the thrift stores for almost nothing. Also the dollar stores usually have them for cheap money.

    My muffin pans cast a nice round chunk of lead in the 2-2-1/2 lb. range. And they fit perfectly in my RCBS pot, not sure about a Lee pot.

  8. #28
    Boolit Mold
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    Thanks. That reminded me of seeing those, over the years, from others who cast. I'm sure I could probably find one around mine or.my.parents house that wouldn't be missed. I was thinking about trying to break down the lead I have around the house. They're large, 30lb and larger prices of lead that were melted in a large pot. Definitely bowl shaped. I was thinking about buying a cheap hot plate and a pot to melt them back down and ladel them into smaller pieces that would fit in the casting pot.

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  9. #29
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnMcD348 View Post
    I was thinking about trying to break down the lead I have around the house. They're large, 30lb and larger prices of lead that were melted in a large pot. Definitely bowl shaped. I was thinking about buying a cheap hot plate and a pot to melt them back down and ladel them into smaller pieces that would fit in the casting pot.
    Depending on how many of those 30# ingots you have a hot plate may not be the best option. It may not do the job at all.

    If you are going to stay in the lead melting game get a turkey fryer with the red regulator, a cast iron Dutch oven and a propane torch. Use the torch to help heat those big ingots while trying to melt them. It will take a while to heat them through. I know this from buying the 31.5# isotope cores a while back. I think I'm still waiting for them to heat through.
    A vote for anyone other then the conservative candidates is a vote for the liberal candidates.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master 15meter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnMcD348 View Post
    Thanks. That reminded me of seeing those, over the years, from others who cast. I'm sure I could probably find one around mine or.my.parents house that wouldn't be missed. I was thinking about trying to break down the lead I have around the house. They're large, 30lb and larger prices of lead that were melted in a large pot. Definitely bowl shaped. I was thinking about buying a cheap hot plate and a pot to melt them back down and ladel them into smaller pieces that would fit in the casting pot.

    Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
    I can just about guarantee an electric hot plate won't cut it. My turkey fryer makes short work out of my 50 lbs. slabs of range lead. Goodwill is your friend, stainless steel pots, big stainless steel ladles and muffin pans will make quick work breaking down big chunks into perfect size muffins of lead. and the muffins stack quite nicely if the muffin pan is on a level surface when you fill them.

    And you get another chance to flux the lead before it goes into your casting pot. Cleaner the lead you start with, the happier you will be. I use a wood stick to stir the pot. Doesn't transfer heat to your hand and provides flux at the same time.

    You will read here about people using wood chips as flux. It works, if you choose to us a stick for stirring, make sure it is dry, not a limb you just cut off the tree outside your shop.

  11. #31
    Boolit Mold
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    Thanks for the info. And ******, I just threw out my old Turkey frier because I hadn't used it in about 5, or more, years. Thats my luck.

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  12. #32
    Boolit Bub
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    I have the lee 10lb and 20lb melters both drip. Not bad. As mentioned above just put the drips back in. Now I did make my own from 10" pipe welded a 3/8 bottom on and use a 20psi turkey burner and ladle it out. Its about 12" tall and I get over 150 lbs per melt providing I have enough to melt that much. But 5he lees have their worth being around. I always give a good cleaning after cool downs.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master Jim22's Avatar
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    There are melting pots and there are melting pots. With the firss post I assumed the OP was referring to pots in which to melt lead - what many of us call smelting. I must have been wrong, though. Every answer referred to bottom pour for casting boolits. I have both a Lee 10 lb bottom pour pot and a 20# Lee. Don't use the 20 lb pot because I only have one six cavity nould and my casting needs are rather small.

    A couple things:

    1. Back when I was castiing for .44 magnum I often used two Lee 10# pots - one above the other. I could cast boolits from the bottom pot and refill it when needed from the upper pot. I used the upper one to preheat ingots to liquid. It helped speed thtings up.

    2. I want a pot for smelting. So far I have been using a 10" cast iron skillet but bigger would be better. I have an old 20 lb propane tank that no longer has a legal valve. Have been thinking of cutting it down and making a steel bowl for smelting. I'd really like something a bit smaller. Maybe 12" or so in diameter but deeper than the skillet. Does anyone have a suggestion?

    Jim

  14. #34
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim22 View Post
    ...
    2. I want a pot for smelting. So far I have been using a 10" cast iron skillet but bigger would be better. I have an old 20 lb propane tank that no longer has a legal valve. Have been thinking of cutting it down and making a steel bowl for smelting. I'd really like something a bit smaller. Maybe 12" or so in diameter but deeper than the skillet. Does anyone have a suggestion?

    Jim
    Jim, I used a short section of schedule 80 8" pipe and welded a bottom on of ¼" plate, very similar to MWilson0173's version. Mine will hold over 100 pounds of melted lead, which is enough for me at one time.

    I also made a heat shield by tracing around it with a cutting torch on a brake drum, it does seem to help.

    There are lots of recommendations for using a cast iron dutch oven, but I've seen too much cast iron crack to really want to do that (I have a bad habit of tapping the edge of the pan with the stirring utensil).

    Robert

  15. #35
    Boolit Master
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    Muffin tins work fine but beware. Those made from one piece of aluminum are what you want. Those made by pressing cups into a flat piece of aluminum tend to come apart, the cups separating from the framework. When handling the filled tin be gentle, the thin aluminum bends easily when filled with lead. I drop ingots by grabbing the long edge in two places with pliers and flipping over rather trying to lift the tin.

  16. #36
    Boolit Master 15meter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich/WIS View Post
    Muffin tins work fine but beware. Those made from one piece of aluminum are what you want. Those made by pressing cups into a flat piece of aluminum tend to come apart, the cups separating from the framework. When handling the filled tin be gentle, the thin aluminum bends easily when filled with lead. I drop ingots by grabbing the long edge in two places with pliers and flipping over rather trying to lift the tin.
    Mine are stamped steel, not sure if I would try with an aluminum pans. The steel ones can flex enough when full to make me leary of aluminum pans.

  17. #37
    Boolit Master
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    lee 10lb pot has worked for 20 years for me .had to clean it once ,my fault for using dirty lead.just keep topping it up with sprues and ingots .does drip occasionally but i have my pot standing in an old oven tray to catch splashes etc.

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mk42gunner View Post
    In the FWIW department, I have three bottom pour pots.....

    ..... I also bought a Lee Magnum Melter (Ladle pot) last winter. Honestly if I had bought this one first, I don't think I would have ever gotten around to buying a bottom pour. I do use an RCBS lead Ladle with it, the Lyman dipper would be almost the same in use.

    Robert
    I bought the Lee Magnum Melter pot and a ladle and as Mk24gunner suggests I never moved on. I find it just works for my needs. It also offers some variability in how the mold is filled that a bottom pour doesn't. My best addition was a hot plate with a solid surface to pre-heat molds. The pid would I think be high on my list of things I would like but so far haven't sprung for the cost due to the fact I can fill molds just fine with a ladle and pot.

    I do get the feeling from what other casters say that a bottom pour is really nice for some molds. Six cavity especially seem to get mentioned.

    I would look to find a turkey fryer and cast iron dutch oven for melting lead so that you have a place to melt scrap and making ingots that keeps crud away from the casting pot.
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.

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  19. #39
    Boolit Man QuackAttack24's Avatar
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    Goodwill is your friend

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    All of my ingot molds are from Goodwill. Cast iron ones are my favorite. My absolute favorite is the round cast iron cornbread pan. Makes perfect 2# ingots. Way cheaper and more functional than the commercially available ingot molds.
    What could possibly go wrong?

  20. #40
    Boolit Mold
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    I have a lee 4-20 pot that I’ve had for 20+ years at least. Still works great.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check