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Thread: Lead melting pot recommendations

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
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    Lead melting pot recommendations

    I haven't gotten into casting my own yet, but I've been collecting parts and pieces, especially lead. As for a pot, I figured I'd just go with a Lee setup, since most of my equipment is either Lee Presses or Hornady. But, I've been hearing a lot of bad about the melting pots from Lee. I've read and heard, more than place, that they tend to leak badly.
    I think I'd prefer a pot that I can bottom pour instead of using a Ladel. Can anyone recommend one that's not many 100's of dollars? Or any input on what I've heard about the Lee units.
    Also, is there any benefit of using a 220v pot versus a 110v pot? I'd assume, the 220 might heat faster and recover quicker? I'm completely new to all of this and trying to.learn what I can before I jump in with both feet.

    Thanks.
    John

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  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    both the RCBS and Lyman furnaces have been lookie loos for me all my life. after graduating from using an old stainless spoon and various dippers. I splurged on the smaller lee bottom pour pot, what lee calls the Production Pot IV and have used them for decades. yeah they might drip a little , I peel the pieces of solidified lead off the aluminum base and throw them back in the pot. my experience as far as the dripping has not been so bad that when I unplug the pot with it still full of molten lead it does not leak out or anything like that.
    thinking about other things that might leak or drip. I dont think I ever owned a tractor that didn't leak or drip something or other.
    one thing I do like about the small lee bottom pour pot is the spout is right in the front and putting a mold sprue plate up to it is easy to see and use. One thing I never do is put any type of dirty casting alloy into the pot. I melt , flux and clean all alloys in a cast iron pot and pour clean alloy into ingots. I only melt clean ingots in the lee production pot IV.
    hope this helps. Yeah I guess if I had several hundred dollars laying around that I could spare I would buy the latest edition of the RCBS or Lyman pot or even jump right up to a Magma Master Pot.
    For me, the little lee bottom pour pots serve well and cast all the bullets I can shoot.
    as far as the 110/220 thing, unless the pot uses more than 15 amps at 110 volts I see no reason why to use 220 volt.
    I seriously doubt that a 220volt pot would heat up any faster than a 220 volt pot, but Im not an expert on such things and dont have a 220 v pot to compare. I guess in Europe 220v is common.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    toallmy's Avatar
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    A lee 4 - 20 110 is a good investment , & if in a few years you decide to upgrade your lee pot will still be useful.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Lee pots work.

    All pots leak from time to time. Lee pots leak a little more than the average. With cleaning you can reduce leakage.

    I put a ingot mold under the spout to catch the drips.

    Three44s
    Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207

    “There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I'm using a Lee Pro 4-20 for many years (25?) and like any tool if it is taken care of it will last thousands of hours. I will occasionally (when I think of it) empty and clean my Lee pot. Wire brush ID clean and lap valve, make sure all screws are tight (loc-tite some). Only clean alloy goes into my pot as any speck can lodge in needle valve assy and leak. I will continue to use my Lee 4-20 till it don't get haot anymore, then probably just fix it and use it some more...

    FWIW; mention "Lee___" and you'll get defamitory remarks about whatever product you post about. Most are generated by ignorance, old wives tales and "internet wisdom". Do your own research/thinking and ignore "Lee Haters"...
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  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    My Lee pots work just fine, like others have said keep the alloy & pot clean. Keep a screw driver on hand to settle the seat and if you have any major issue a little vale grinding compound on the seat does the trick. I have added lead weight to my handle as well to hold the valve tighter but mine are 10lb pots.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Ed_Shot's Avatar
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    +1 for the Lee 4-20
    COME AND TAKE IT
    Let’s Go Brandon!!!!

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    I have a 10 lb and 20 lb Lee pots. That 10 lb has cast a ton of lead and depending on what I’m doing I still use it more than the 20 lb. if you go with a Lee pot like as been said take the valve rod apart and use something like valve grinding compound or similar put it in a drill and spin it in the seat.
    My 10 lb does not drip the 20 lb does drip a bit but nothing like I’ve heard others do. Using clean lead no matter what brand is just logical though no matter how clean you think you got it there will be some crap come out.
    If you are going to get serious a PIDS is easy and cheap to make and does a great job.

  9. #9
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdi View Post
    FWIW; mention "Lee___" and you'll get defamitory remarks about whatever product you post about. Most are generated by ignorance, old wives tales and "internet wisdom". Do your own research/thinking and ignore "Lee Haters"...
    Oh Yeah. Been listening to it for years. My 1st, and still only presses are Lee's. When I got started in reloading about 15 or so years back, I just wanted to make cheap reloads since my wife wanted to learn to shoot and it started getting expensive to buy new every weekend. I used the Midway Birthday discount to buy a Lee Loadmaster and Lee Anniversary kit and never looked back. They still load ammo better than I can shoot. Now, honestly, if I were trying to shoot Sub MOA 1000yd shots out of habit, I wouldn't be using Lee. I'd be using Hornady, Lyman, or one of those Super, High Dollar, single stage presses with sub micron adjustments.

    From reading the comments here, I think I'll go with my initial plan and get one of the smaller Lee Pots. I'll do the polish on the valve rod. I'll need to break down the lead I do have right now. It's in huge blocks that was obviously made by using a large cast iron pot, and I even have a few that were made in hub caps. It's very old Lead. It sat in my parents back yard for about the last 40, or so years. I'll probably start off the same way, just to get t broken down to ingots.

    I really appreciate the input guys. If there's any other things I might need to think about doing, don't hesitate to tell me.

    John

  10. #10
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    metricmonkeywrench's Avatar
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    A Lee 20# is probably the best place to start, one additional thing to think of in addition to all the above is that if you pick up a hollow point or hollow base mould with a traditional knob and pin setup you will need the extra height from the base to the pot spout to use them.

  11. #11
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    The usual cause for any bottom pour pot to leak is because the nozzle and or the rod has crud in/on it.
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  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master
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    In the FWIW department, I have three bottom pour pots.

    1. A Lee 4-20 that I bought new and lapped the seating surfaces before I ever warmed it up. I still get occasional drips from it, but no deluges of molten metal. You can easily ladle cast from this pot.

    2. A Lee ten pounder, (Production pot IV, I think). Bought missing a few pieces at a pawn shop for $10, a few parts from Lee and I'm still under $20, including postage. The good-- The spout is out front and you can see what you are doing. The bad-- The only pot I have that has deluge emptied itself multiple times. I keep it in an aluminum turkey roaster pan. Don't even try to ladle from this one. the valve rod is way to easy to bump from the wire bail, then you have a deluge right now.

    3. An RCBS Promelt, the first version. Bought used at an estate auction for $88. This was roughly a quarter of new price at the time. It is better than the Lee, not $2-300 better, but it is better. It also drips very occasionally. It can be ladled from, not quite as easy as the 4-20, but it works.

    I also bought a Lee Magnum Melter (Ladle pot) last winter. Honestly if I had bought this one first, I don't think I would have ever gotten around to buying a bottom pour. I do use an RCBS lead Ladle with it, the Lyman dipper would be almost the same in use.

    Robert

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Winger Ed. View Post
    The usual cause for any bottom pour pot to leak is because the nozzle and or the rod has crud in/on it.
    All the bottom pours have their leak issues and need clean lead only.

    For the cost savings, the Lee is worth the added issues.

    Three44s
    Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207

    “There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”

  14. #14
    Boolit Master Sasquatch-1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mk42gunner View Post
    I keep it in an aluminum turkey roaster pan. Don't even try to ladle from this one. the valve rod is way to easy to bump from the wire bail, then you have a deluge right now.
    I agree with this. Get a cheap 9x12 cake pan just in case the pot decides to dump the entire contents. Although this has never happened to me I would still be cautious. Especially if you have the irresistible urge to relieve the morning meal while waiting for the pot to warm up.

    I have been casting with mine for 45+ years and still use it for soft lead. Everything else mentioned I have done with mine and would encourage you to do the same if you get one.

    The only other thing I don't think I saw mentioned is the addition of a PID temperature controller.
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  15. #15
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    GregLaROCHE's Avatar
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    I bought a Lee 20# pot because it was recommended a number of times. Yes you do need to fiddle with them and accept some drips. I have mine adjusted to get the maximum flow possible, because I am casting 400-500 grain boolits most of time. The lower the flow rate, the less mine drips. I can get no drips if I want, but the flow rate is too slow for me. It’s getting time to give the old pot an overhaul and lap the valve and seat, but it still works and fills my needs.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    I've got 2 lee 20 lber's, one for ladling, one bottom pour - both work well. I thought I'd upgrade to RCBS, then they changed to the new style with electronics and the reviews have not been great, same with Lyman, other electric pots are very pricey. Lee haters are Lee haters, if Redding made a melting pot I'd buy it. Right now Lee may be the best available for the price and better than many. I can buy most any equipment out there and I still buy a lot of Lee stuff, with specialty dies (bushing dies, stuff like that) from Redding in the mix.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    I have a Lyman I picked up new at an estate sale for $100. I've used both the Lee Production IV (The IV barely keeps up with a 6 banger) and the 4-20. My 4-20 I've run for some 14 years or so. I've rebuilt it once, new pour spout and new stem. The rebuild helped with the drips but it still does and the Lyman drips too. The Lyman doesn't get as hot as the Lee. I'm glad I found the Lyman at the price I did, I wouldn't pay the new price for one and having this one proved my instinct right. It is a smoother running tool than the Lee. I keep a bit of 2 cycle oil on my casting bench and lube the lift handle where it goes around the pour spout on the Lee, this really helps with the tools smoothness. My "fix" idea for the Lee is to shape a piece of metal in a "Z" shape so it can be screwed to the top of the pot and have a small threaded bolt over the stem so that there is a true positive stop for flow control.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
    John Guedry's Avatar
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    I have the 10# Lee,given to me by a friend about 20yrs ago. Its been dropped (when it was cold). Looks like the devil,but works fine. Yes it leaks but not badly.
    Old retired guy in Baton Rouge La.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master Cast10's Avatar
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    I’m a newby too. Started collecting last year, piece by piece. I purchased a 110v Lee Pro 4-20, and its been good. Can’t go wrong.
    Now, that said, I am learning that as I establish my cadence for pouring lead into the mold, etc., the temperature maintained by the pot is critical. I need to know its all up to me and not the equipment. The Lee has a reostatic switch that is not terribly accurate. I have recently built a PID. I’d say start studying here on PIDs. I am a firm believer in maintaining the temp!

    Good luck to ya! I’ve really enjoyed it!

  20. #20
    Boolit Mold
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    Yes, thanks for that. I've been YouTubing a lot about the PIDs and will most likely build one, no matter what brand I get. I like playing with electronics also.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check