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Thread: Welder

  1. #21
    Boolit Master



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    I'm a steel structure builder, Hobart 140 with an added on spool gun. Been using it for years and can have anybody making excellent welds with it in 15 minutes or less. Mig is my suggestion.

  2. #22
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    I been behind a hood over 50yrs. Gobs of xray work, pressure vessels, shipyards, offshore in the Gulf, fab shops, paper mills, power plants, chemical plants, refineries, LOTS of US Navy vessels from aircraft carriers and guided missile cruisers to submarines, fingerprints in DC, all that stuff.

    A wire feeder with 75%/25% Argon/CO2 shielding gas and .035" wire is great. 220v is better than 110v any day of the week. Anybody can weld with a mig welder, there are 2-3 things it does NOT like, paint, rust, oil, wind. If your metal is clean and shined with a wire brush or wheel, and you are out of the wind, you will love the mig it's the spray and pray of welding procedures. It will weld gaps much larger and much faster than a stick rod will, which should be a big help to a newb.

    You can run fluxcore wire without the gas or with it which will approximate what you can do with a 7018 stick rod only 4x faster than stick. You can use 309L wire and weld stainless, or weld stainless to carbon steel, pretty neat stuff I have used a ton of 309.

    I would only buy Horrible Freight as a last resort. Lincoln or Miller and nothing else, look in Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace to see what's near you, and of course the big box home improvement stores and Tractor Supply sell new machines, gas, and electrodes.

    It takes a bit more experience to weld with stick I think than mig, but if you are going out into a muddy field to weld on a plow or bush hog, yes stick without question. It's also cheaper to get into stick than mig so you gets what you pays for mostly.
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    1/4 inch and under MIG over 1/4 thick stick. You need 2 at least. I now have 3 MIG, Stick, and TIG
    Last edited by ebb; 09-25-2021 at 07:07 PM.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    About every farmhouse around me has an old Lincoln buzz box sitting around. I only fire mine up if I need to burn a quick hole or cut something off without getting the torch out. I have one of the cheap 220 volt migs and it fixes mowers and tractors with just a little clean up with a wire wheel or grinder.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    I bought a welder Generator 4KW and it welds good and can power your house with enough to run refrigerators fans tv and lights. Lincoln have had it for 22 years. You just got to keep an engine up and running tho. If I was buying another would get electric start one, kinda hard to pull, also added a 5 gallon tank so it’ll run longer on a fill up.
    "The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government..... When the people fear their government there is tyranny, when the government fears the people, there is liberty." Thomas Jefferson

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    Hobart Handler 140. Runs on 120V and will do 1/4" and more with preheat. Owned by Miller now, uses the same tips. Reliable!

    The new Lincolns have a computer to help you weld, no thanks!

    I have a Lincoln Tombstone for hardface and stick.
    Mal

    Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thumbcocker View Post
    I took welding in high school in the late 70's. We used Lincoln stick welders. I am not a welder. I can stick metal together where it will hold most of the time if conditions are close to ideal.

    I would like to get a welder of some type to to basic repairs on stuff around the place. Probably 1/4" thick max maybe rarely 1/2". I have no experience with wire or tig welding.

    What type of welder would y'all recommend for someone with this background? Price is a consideration.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    Thumbcocker, My old gasoline Lincoln welder bit the dust so I only needed a good cracker box welder and after much research it came down to Lincoln electric, which is still made in America, Forney (made in Italy), and Chinese crap......I went with the AC/DC Forney and have never regretted that decision.....it is very easy to use and well made. The reviews were good and the only thing that I can suggest is buy the wheel kit and you will be happy.....the leads are heavy gauge and very long as is the power cable......the warranty between the Lincoln and the Forney were the same if my memory serves me right. I am not a welder by trade but it is an excellent choice.....if ya go any questions please email and I will give ya the particulars....have a good hunt on this quest!
    When guns are outlawed only criminals and the government will have them and at that time I will see very little difference in either!

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  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    I have a Lincoln ac/dc, two migs( 220v and 24v dc), a Miller ac and two Oxy/acet sets. The one that gets used the most is the Lincoln. Most of my welding is with 1/4"or thicker.If I was going to stick with 1/4" or thinner I would probably be happy with a mig.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mal Paso View Post
    Hobart Handler 140. Runs on 120V and will do 1/4" and more with preheat. Owned by Miller now, uses the same tips. Reliable!

    The new Lincolns have a computer to help you weld, no thanks!

    I have a Lincoln Tombstone for hardface and stick.
    Yeah I forgot, manual only, knobs and switches, no digital "command center."

    Forgot about the Hobart Handler 140 MIG, I use one of these often and it runs good BUT you gotta keep the extension cord short and heavy gauge. We run .035" wire that comes from Tractor Supply in 10lb spools. I replaced the whip and gun on this machine with a 12' that cost $65 from ebay and now it runs like a Cadillac.
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy
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    Hard to go wrong with an older 220V transformer-based stick welder -- Idealarc, Dialarc, Thunderbolt, Hobart Handler -- and personally I would look for an AC/DC model. The older transformer machines are generally bulletproof and last for generations. The newer inverters, not so much.

    That, and some 3/32" and 1/8" 6010 (6011 if AC only) and 7018 (7018AC if AC only) rods should cover an awful lot of needs.

    I also wouldn't rule out an oxy-acetylene rig, which would allow you to cut, braze, heat, etc., in addition to welding. Better yet, get BOTH!

    Good luck with your choice.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    Not a pro, but ended up with 2 a little wire feed 110v Lincoln fluxcore wire feed bought as an open box and a relic 220v Montgomery Ward given to me for re-wiring a horse trailer. Between the two I get about everything I need welded done. The wire feed is great for small quick jobs and relatively simple to use. The Montgomery Ward is great for bigger jobs and has a 100% duty cycle, so I can keep jamming rods into it till I’m done on the bigger heavy jobs that occasionally show up.

  12. #32
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by DougGuy View Post
    Yeah I forgot, manual only, knobs and switches, no digital "command center."

    Forgot about the Hobart Handler 140 MIG, I use one of these often and it runs good BUT you gotta keep the extension cord short and heavy gauge. We run .035" wire that comes from Tractor Supply in 10lb spools. I replaced the whip and gun on this machine with a 12' that cost $65 from ebay and now it runs like a Cadillac.
    Every time I haul the welder out to weld a gate or something I wish I'd gotten the 2 pound roll of wire instead of 10. LOL (a Honda 3000EU powers it)

    There is some awful flux core wire from you know where, watch out. I got a roll that was rebranded Lincoln.

    Doug is right about power. All plug in welders run so much better close to the utility transformer and connected with big wires. The inverter welders do better but power is critical.
    Mal

    Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.

  13. #33
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    It is easy enough to make a very heavy extension cord with little voltage drop. Not cheap though! Made one for my friend so he can use his flux core mig welder all over the yard, cord is 50 feet long. Went with #2 stranded wire ran inside a heavy rubber tube(think it was meant to be hydraulic hose...). Less than 1% voltage drop... I told him what to get, wire, a heavy piece of flexible tubing, and the proper connectors. It hangs out on the light pole where the 220 volt drop to the garage is. He is always fixing n old cars to flip, welding frames etc...

  14. #34
    Boolit Master
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    I say get a used Linclon red box off craig's list or a auction. Mr/Mrs Thumb has arc welded, no new learning curves. No tanks (I don't know anyone personally that uses flux core wire), no replacement tips...just rods and a slag hammer. One dial for amperage and pick a rod. Less surface prep than Mig also.
    Take a kid to the range, you'll both be glad you did.

  15. #35
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    Here is a few of my "pet" projects for 2021. They don't bring stuff when it needs repair, they run it until it literally falls apart then and only then do I get them..

    Everything in these photos was done with Esab 1/16" 7100 Ultra dual shield wire, it's flux cored wire and also uses gas for shielding. I use 75/25 pretty common mix for mig, 75% argon 25% CO2.

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    Last edited by DougGuy; 09-30-2021 at 02:44 PM.
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.

  16. #36
    Boolit Buddy
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    Identify all the welding supply places in your area. Tell them what you want to do and your shop size, electrical availability, etc. They get trade ins all the time and there are some really good deals to be had.

    A friend did this and they fixed him up with a 110 welder, two sizes if wire, bottle of gas and the welding for around $100. I used to teach welding to students at a technical college for auto collision. I found the 110 welders (check your amps) to be able to accomplish a lot. They will let you practice as well to see. Don't be shy. I am not a big fan of the Flux core, prefer gas.

  17. #37
    Boolit Master


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    AC stick is easy.. especially with 3/16 and thicker metal using appropriately sized 6011 rods.

    That said.. a small flux wire welder with new inverter technology can do some neat things on the metal UP to 1/4" and run on a standard household plug.

    I have both a 325a ac welder for big stuff.. and that flux welder.

    I have access to a large mig.. but for what I do.. the flux is fine.. and very portable.

  18. #38
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    Flux is great for outdoor repairs where shielding gas would blow away. On my old lawn mower a friend brought over his HF $90 flux core welder and I ran 100' of #10 extension cord out to where the mower axle welds broke. Did a little grinding to get rid of the old crappy garbage welds(they were full of air pockets and corrosion inside the weld), hammered the axle back in place, laid down new welds on both sides(figured might as well do the other side, it was cracking) and off I went to finish mowing. Sure I could have drug it back to the garage and he could have brought over his mig setup but that would have been a pain. Splatter is easy to remove, grinders were invented for a reason!

  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Huskerguy View Post
    I am not a big fan of the Flux core, prefer gas.
    There are gasless fluxcore wire and there is fluxcore wire meant to be used with shielding gas. Most call this dual shield, diff. mfgrs call it their own name but it's the same thing. It would win you over in a heartbeat if you ever ran much of it.
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.

  20. #40
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    On heavier than recommended metal a preheat of the weld seam will help aid penetration and flow. It actually will help most welds
    Quote Originally Posted by DougGuy View Post
    Here is a few of my "pet" projects for 2021. They don't bring stuff when it needs repair, they run it until it literally falls apart then and only then do I get them..

    Everything in these photos was done with Esab 1/16" 7100 Ultra dual shield wire, it's flux cored wire and also uses gas for shielding. I use 75/25 pretty common mix for mig, 75% argon 25% CO2.

    Attachment 289413 Attachment 289414

    Attachment 289415 Attachment 289416

    Attachment 289417 Attachment 289422

    Attachment 289418 Attachment 289419

    Attachment 289420 Attachment 289421

    Attachment 289423 Attachment 289424
    Nice welds, Doug. Was that last on left done at their place in Henderson? How heavy an extension are we talking in post 29? Im getting sticking with a short 12g using 110v
    I Am Descended From Men Who Would Not Be Ruled

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