Stuck case remover

[Bad Ass Wallace]

Having a bang session with my 32/20 and I had a case head separation. Normally a tight patch would push the ruptured case out, but in this case it was stuck fast. Try as I might with oversized brushes and patches it would not move. Seems like a trip to the 'smith was the only solution.

Next I tried a 303 stuck case extractor, tightened the thread up and pushed the forward part into the chamber until it 'clicked' into place. Then using a 30cal rod down the barrel to tap the extractor and presto the offending broken case released.

Should be able to use this method on any 310 Cadet as well.

[Wilderness]

BAW - a long time ago Numrich were selling Marbles Broken Shell Extractors for $2.75 each. I bought a bundle, including one for .32 WSL. It turns out to be just the ticket for .32-20 and .310. Nice to know that .303 can be used also, though good luck with a M73. One of our locals is also making them for .357/.38 Special, since this seems also to be a frequent stoppage - usually in a M73 clone that's hard to get into.

I have found that I can use the .32 WSL tool on a .357 by just wedging it over far enough for the lip to catch the front of the shell, then easing it or knocking it out.

For a bolt action rifle, a good system I've seen is to run the right sized rat tail file into the broken shell (carefully), twist it in with pliers (the teeth are on a spiral so work like a screw), then bump it out with the cleaning rod.

If you're caught in the field with no tools, an old dry broken off dead stick can do wonders. The cartridge piece in the chamber is usually in there pretty loose, at least until someone runs a cleaning brush through it from behind, or tries to wedge it with a loaded cartridge. If you look at such a piece you'll see that the broken brass around the inside circumference is like sharks' teeth. The idea is to use a stick about 1/2 to 2/3 the ID of the broken shell. Push it gently into the shell, then wedge it sideways to catch the teeth, and pull the whole thing out.

As for not getting caught in the first place, I've read the one about about probing the inside of the case with a bent paper clip to find any stretch grooves. I could never understand why the advice was not simply to go out into the sun and get the light down into the case for a visual inspection. The stretch ring shows as a really obvious circumferential shadow about where you expect the break to occur. The start of the stretch ring may show up after just a couple of reloads, so you can watch it develop until you decide that enough is enough. Your first incipient separation will give you a sample to work off. This works pretty well for .30-30 and .308, though I can't vouch for .32-20 or .310. Culling the offenders always seemed to me a better solution than dumping a whole batch of brass on suspicion.

[Lloyd Smale]

i have good luck with the 556 chamber clean brushes. I carry one and a pistol clean rod in my shooting box i take to the range. Its saved me many times. But if it was due to high pressure a stuck case remover is about the only option.

[pietro]

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I've always successfully used a $5 spring hook (tool), inserted through the case from the rear, then caught on the lip of the case mouth to pull the case out.

I bend the hook tip a bit so it can grab onto something from the side (like the inside of the case mouth).

https://crawfordtool.com/products/cr...hook-push-pull





I've also made my own via manually spinning a thin steel rod's end against a grinding wheel, to make a sharp taper - then heating/bending the new tip to make a small hook (the hook doesn't need to be very big)


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[Fishoot]

I use old bicycle spokes bent to a 90 degree and ground to a chisel point. Spokes are also good for substitute extractor when one is broken or missing in a single shot firearm. I keep several in different shapes handy for different purposes.

[samari46]

1" pipe cap,drilled and tapped for 1/4x20 threads, 1/4x20 allen bolt and some washers. Grind off the threads if it won't fit over a standard 7/8thx14 die. if it fits just center the pipe cap, center punch drill and then tap. and some small washers. You will have to drill and tap the case head if there is no primer in place. Iron or brass either will work. If a primed case with no powder put case in vise (with suitable protection, wear welders gloves and pop the primer with a center punch. Stand off one side when you do this. That primer will come out at warp speed. I've done this twice for a friend. Primer did blow out. and safety goggles are also a wise investment. I did one for a buddy that reloads 50BMG. Had a match next morning Now that one had the projectile and powder removed. Still made a heck of lot of noise. Note to self. make sure said buddy tells everyone in the house when doing this. Very energetic primer. Frank